Is there a "go-to guy" for repairing Sanyo EZV chassis?

MaximRecoil

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Dead Sanyo EZV chassis

The monitor is dead; no signs of life that I can see; no neck glow. The fuse on the chassis tests okay. I assume the problem is with the chassis (could it be the tube instead? I hope not).

I noticed that the corner of the PCB where L601 is, was broken, but when I removed the chassis to get a better look, I saw that the break didn't affect any traces, so that wasn't the cause of any problems. I super glued the broken corner back on (the break was angular so there was a fair amount of surface area for the glue joint). The glue joint seems solid enough, but who knows if it will hold up.
 
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Which one, there are two?

Oh, I only noticed one. I just checked them both with the multimeter; they are both okay. However, the continuity check usually shows "001" on something that has good continuity, but on one of the fuses (the one that is physically smaller) it only showed "003". I don't know if that is a problem or not.
 
Did you gave a check to the PSU? If it's dead, the monitor goes blink

The power supply in the cabinet you mean? If so, I tested the monitor by hooking it up to my fully working Super Punch-Out machine, so the cabinet can be ruled out as a problem.
 
Test the outlet in the bottom of the cab to verify that you have 100vac available.

Test the HOT.

report back

Can the HOT be tested with the chassis removed from the monitor? I don't know how to test a HOT, but I looked at your flowchart and it says:
Test for shorted HOT Q902
*Test with Power OFF!*
Set meter for Diode test. Ground Black lead to the chassis frame. Red lead to the case of the HOT. Open or high resistance is good. Shorted the HOT is Bad.

So the case of the HOT, that's just anywhere on the outside of the HOT? Also, I have an el cheapo multimeter, and I've never done a diode test, and I don't even know if this meter has a diode test function. It is a Cen-Tech P30756 (I don't have the instructions for it):

attachment.php


Is there a diode test function on there?

The outlet in the cabinet is fine by the way; I tested this monitor by hooking it up to my Super Punch-Out machine, which is working 100% with its own monitors. I have another extra Sanyo EZV too that I tested in the same way, and it works fine.
 

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It looks like his prices are close to what I could buy a working chassis for. I don't blame him, working on monitors is a pain; but I think I might see what I can do about it myself.

Anyone have any idea where I should start? Something I should test?

You pay for what you get, his work is second to none
you would not be disappointed
 
diode test is just to the right of the 200 ohms setting on that meter

You mean this?

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I thought that was the continuity test. Is the continuity test the same as the diode test? And can this test be done with the chassis separated from the monitor?

Anyway, I couldn't find anything on the chassis that said "Q902". Is the HOT the bottlecap-looking thing with two mounting flanges, mounted on the piece of stamped steel that's on the side of the flyback transformer? It says on it:

D869

2B

Like these:

HOT.jpg


If so, I set the meter to the setting you specified that looks like ->+ and placed the black lead on the piece of stamped steel that is alongside the flyback transformer, and the red lead on the case of what I guess was the HOT, and nothing happened on the meter's screen, no matter how many which ways I tried it.

I then tried it on one of the known-working Sanyos in my SPO cabinet and the meter did do something (bounced around various 3 or 4 digit numbers).

So I guess the HOT is blown on my dead chassis, and probably the flyback transformer too?
 

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yes that is it
yes that is the HOT
yes that is how you test it
yes no reading means that it is bad
no the fly may still be ok
 
yes that is it
yes that is the HOT
yes that is how you test it
yes no reading means that it is bad
no the fly may still be ok

Thanks for the help.

Does a blown HOT make the monitor completely dead with no neck glow?

I figured the flyback is probably blown because that's what usually takes out the HOT isn't it? I do have a couple of Sanyo parts chassis around here, I could see if either one of them has a good HOT and then try it out.
 
I tried testing the HOT on the dead chassis again, and a few times I got brief readings on the meter. Most of the time the meter doesn't do anything, but if I move the probes around enough on both surfaces, I occassionally get a brief reading. Does that mean the HOT is okay?
 
I tried testing the HOT on the dead chassis again, and a few times I got brief readings on the meter. Most of the time the meter doesn't do anything, but if I move the probes around enough on both surfaces, I occassionally get a brief reading. Does that mean the HOT is okay?

You should be able to get a consistent reading.

Isn't that contradictory ?

Yes, it is. I will have to re-phrase.

Dave, you crack me up.

Yep, that's me.:D
 
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