Is there a +5v adjustment pot on a Nintendo PSU?

Just helped a friend do this last weekend, and it was a pain. Just like OZ said you have to take the supply apart, then all the adjustment pots had glue on the top that we had to chip off to clear the screwdriver slots so we could adjust. Finally we laid the open supply in the cab to adjust it with the game running.

The adjustment would have been much easier if we had some kind of test rig outside of the game to put a load on the supply.
 
Just helped a friend do this last weekend, and it was a pain. Just like OZ said you have to take the supply apart, then all the adjustment pots had glue on the top that we had to chip off to clear the screwdriver slots so we could adjust. Finally we laid the open supply in the cab to adjust it with the game running.

The adjustment would have been much easier if we had some kind of test rig outside of the game to put a load on the supply.

Ugh . :eek:
 
Just helped a friend do this last weekend, and it was a pain. Just like OZ said you have to take the supply apart, then all the adjustment pots had glue on the top that we had to chip off to clear the screwdriver slots so we could adjust. Finally we laid the open supply in the cab to adjust it with the game running.

The adjustment would have been much easier if we had some kind of test rig outside of the game to put a load on the supply.

You are right, it was a total pain in the ass to adjust the +5v!

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I'm actually about to order a couple of kits worth of caps for two Nintendo power supplies and the list I was given is as follows:

Board without heatsink:

330uf 200v - C6/C7
10uf 16v - C22
47uf 35v - C13
47uf 16v - C18/C19/C20/C30/C31/C32/C37/C38

Board with heatsink:

47uf 35v - C11
1000uf 50v - C10
47uf 16v - C36/C12
3300uf 10v - C15/C16/C27/C28
1000uf 25v - C21
10uf 16v - C2/C35/C34/C24
100uf 25v - C23/C33

I was also told that since these are switching power supplies, I have to use low-ESR type caps for the Vout caps of the regulator circuit. (Whatever that means).

And I was told Mouser was the place to get the caps.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Here's a mouser pp7b cap kit from mouser as of today. A couple of he caps from another threading listing mouser cap kits aren't available anymore, so here's an updated list. Hopefully these are correct.

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=58b2b0b591

Also, I have pictures of where the pots are to post. What a pain in the ass! I love just about everything about Nintendo cabs, but voltage adjustment blows. :)
 
Here's a mouser pp7b cap kit from mouser as of today. A couple of he caps from another threading listing mouser cap kits aren't available anymore, so here's an updated list. Hopefully these are correct.

http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=58b2b0b591

Also, I have pictures of where the pots are to post. What a pain in the ass! I love just about everything about Nintendo cabs, but voltage adjustment blows. :)

timberterror gave me the cap list I posted above. He said the 27 caps cost him about $13.

Are all of them no longer available?

Can anyone confirm what list is correct?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
timberterror gave me the cap list I posted above. He said the 27 caps cost him about $13.

Are all of them no longer available?

Can anyone confirm what list is correct?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

I'm sure his list is correct. I checked my list against his. I started with the mouser list from another thread and replaced the two cap specs that were no longer available with equivalents from a good manufacturer.
 
I'm sure his list is correct. I checked my list against his. I started with the mouser list from another thread and replaced the two cap specs that were no longer available with equivalents from a good manufacturer.

Just to make sure you know the 330uf in you parts list is a snap in. Not sure if it should be or not.

Also, the 3300uf caps should really be bumped to 16 volt and you should use low ESR caps.
 
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Just to make sure you know the 330uf in you parts list is a snap in. Not sure if it should be or not.

Also, the 3300uf caps should really be bumped to 16 volt and you should use low ESR caps.

Probably shouldn't be. I inherited that from someone else's list. Oh well. :) I'll run down to vetco and hopefully get those if they are wrong since I placed an order already. Otherwise, I'll place another order. Thanks for cluing me in. :)
 
Just to make sure you know the 330uf in you parts list is a snap in. Not sure if it should be or not.

Also, the 3300uf caps should really be bumped to 16 volt and you should use low ESR caps.

Ok, taking that into consideration along with me not knowing anything about capacitors, I figure I'll need caps from the following two lists to replace those you mentioned:

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compo..._/N-75hqw?Keyword=330uF+200V+Nichicon&FS=True

http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Compo..._/N-75hqw?Keyword=3300uF+16V+Nichicon&FS=True

But do I get radial or axial? And how do I determine which ones are low ESR?

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
Or should I just scrap these and go with modern switching power supplies for DK and Mario Bros.? (It would obviously be a lot easier than trying to get all the caps I need for the originals).

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
 
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