Is sanding supposed to be this difficult?

[joeycuda]

Much progress was done today. Got all the 80grit sanding done. I'll start on the other grits this week. We also got a bit further on the scratch-build project.

If you have a lot of scratches, dings, and a few edge chips like I did, I'd follow that 80 grit paint removal with Bondo. Just dab it on the dings and dimples. Let it cure, then sand it flat again with the 80 grit. Follow that with a couple of coats of primer, sand, see where you're at.

 

[mitchschaft]

Ok, cool. I was gonna to the bondo at the end, so I'm glad you said that! So I don't need to mess with 120, 220, 320 grit after the 80?

 

[joeycuda]

Ok, cool. I was gonna to the bondo at the end, so I'm glad you said that! So I don't need to mess with 120, 220, 320 grit after the 80?

What worked for me, and someone please chime in if they know better:

-80 grit to sand the old finish off, down to mostly bare wood (color will show in low spots/dings)
-Look for plywood delamination at edges, chips that are busted, but intact, etc.. Use Titebond or Elmer's Carpenter glue and clamp. Where plywood has cracked or has a slight void, fill with glue and clamp hard - probably requires a c-clamp, not just the spring type. If worried about gluing the clamp to the wood, glue, then fold wax or parchment paper over the wood, then clamp.
-Bondo scratches, dings, chips along edge.
-Sand with 80 or 100 grit.
-Will likely need to add some more filler in voids/spots along edge
-Sand again flush
-Sand with a finer grit, like 220
-Apply a good primer coat
-Sand with 220. You may go back down to bare wood in spots, but this will fill fine scratches and some of the texture in the wood.
-May need to repeat the high build primer and sand, if scratches and Bondo'd areas aren't blending in
-Apply a another primer coat, and possibly another light coat.
-Lightly sand with 320ish grit to knock down any texture or runs
-Wipe a couple of times with naptha to 'degrease'
-Blow with compressed air and/or use a tack rag
-Spray color coats

 

[joeycuda]

Some info from an auto body perspective. If you read this, it helps it make a lot of sense, although in painting an arcade cabinet or furniture, you don't need quite this level of perfection:

1) Heavy grit needed
Use 60 to 80 grit paper to sand down below rust, deeper scars or to sand down and begin to shape body filler, such as bondo. These are very coarse grits and should only be used in specific areas where you really need it since it will leave sanding marks.

2) 120 grit to sand away rust
Use 120 grit , which is still coarse, when rust spots or scratches are not that severe but you still need to cut below damage or use 120 to follow up after 60 or 80 grit was used to flatten out scratches from the heavier grit. This is also a good grit for further shaping and forming of body filler.

3) 220 grit for feather edging
Use 220 grit , still in the coarse grit group, to bring down any rough edges from body filler after using the 120 grit. 220 is also great to sand down and begin to feather edge glazing or spot putty that was applied. This grit will also serve to remove surface lighter rust with minimal scratching.

4) 320 grit to prepare for primer
Use 320 grit to complete feathering edge of any compounds and as a block sand before application of any primers. You may also use a 400 grit which is a bit less coarse. Block sanding is when you wrap the paper around a long sanding block and sand the entire area flat. These grits are typical used just before primers.

5) 600 grit on block sander.
Use 600 grit after a standard or high build primer has been applied to remove imperfections and runs from the primer using a block sanding technique.

6) Use 800 grit for sanding the final finish primers just before primer sealers or paint. Again using the block sanding technique.



Read more: How to Choose Auto Body Sandpaper | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_4422656_choose-auto-body-sandpaper.html#ixzz1cKn3JEnF

 

[mitchschaft]

I used your method and it's ready for primer. I plan on doing that this week or weekend.

Had a new little piece fabricated since the old one was cut up. Also having the backdoors and stops replaced (whatever they're called). Other than that, everything else is original so far. Serial # 578226

 

[joeycuda]

I used your method and it's ready for primer. I plan on doing that this week or weekend.

Had a new little piece fabricated since the old one was cut up. Also having the backdoors and stops replaced (whatever they're called). Other than that, everything else is original so far. Serial # 578226

I can't remember for sure, but I want to think there's supposed to be 'a' notch in that piece so that it clears the joystick. When converted with a 2nd stick added, that piece gets chopped up. If so, you can at least do that at any time..well, it should all be sprayed black. good luck

 

[mitchschaft]

I think you're right. I see the pic of your old one and it has a notch. I'm looking at my control panel and I can see why.

 

[mitchschaft]

Can I assume I don't need to paint on windy days?

 

[p1899m]

unless you have a paint booth of some kind painting on a windy day is a bad idea. Unless you want uneven paint and all kinds of debris in it.

 

[Talon2000]

If you lived in Texas I could have saved you alot of work and sold you mine.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/105648148944558411044/albums/5334394682388874481

 

[mitchschaft]

i woulda had to strip/sand/repaint that one, too . my brother lives in austin.

I think I'm gonna have to setup a makeship paint booth somehow. drape some platic from the ceiling, i dunno.

 

[jimkirk]

I think I'm gonna have to setup a makeship paint booth somehow. drape some platic from the ceiling, i dunno.

That is what I do to paint my cabs.
I am thinking of making some frames out of pvc pipe and attach the plastic to it.
That way I can just put it up when I need it and clean the overspray off it when I store it.

 

[mitchschaft]

pvc pipe is a great idea. how big do you think it would need to be? 10x10?

 

[mitchschaft]

Looks like we're gonna use this old shed. It used to be a chicken house when I was little around '89. Won first place in a 4-H auction for my chickens . lol

Got the shelves blocked off with plastic and it's just barely big enough. Vacuumed it out really well and it has plenty of ventillation. We also cut that space for the joystick.

I'm starting the primer this week.

 

[jimkirk]

I would put plastic on the roof also so no crap can fall on your freshly painted cab.
Mine is fully inclosed and I just wear a good respirator.
I just go in spray and then get out.
Just make sure you have enough room to get all the way around the cab without the chance of bumping into it.

 

[cadillacman]

Looks like we're gonna use this old shed. It used to be a chicken house when I was little around '89. Won first place in a 4-H auction for my chickens . lol

Got the shelves blocked off with plastic and it's just barely big enough. Vacuumed it out really well and it has plenty of ventillation. We also cut that space for the joystick.

I'm starting the primer this week.

METH SHACK!!!!!!

lol on a serious note thats cool you have a little spot like that to paint cabs in...

 

[mitchschaft]

meth... maybe I can learn how to do that to fund my hobby!

 

[jimkirk]

Then you could call it the Sundance Meth Lab.

 

[mitchschaft]

The meth lab got some use today. Got a couple coats of primer on. Gotta sand and maybe another coat next week.

 

[mitchschaft]

Primed, sanded and ready for colors. I played with the HVLP gun today. I think I have it set up properly and spraying right. I had to add more acetone to keep little blobs from flying out. Now it's a fine mist.

Tomorrow I'll do some more practicing with scrap wood and hopefully figure it out well enough to move to the cabinet. I don't want to screw this part up.

I think I'll start with the black first.