Is it safe to turn on Xmen without the sound hybrid module?

dukesilverfan

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I thought I finished swapping the custom chip and amp over to a pxlmod replacement board, but now I am getting a watchdog loop when I boot up the system. I want to do some troubleshooting, and isolate my new board from the equation. I installed a set of machine pin sockets, so I can remove the module easily. Is there any harm to the amp or other components with me starting up the game without this module?

Please advise. I did some searching but didn't see anyone else ask this question. I am pretty confident in my solder work, so I am surprised to see the watchdog, unless it's unrelated.

Thanks!
 
Hah, well, scratch that. I am still confident in my solder work, but apparently I am not confident in my memory.

I put the module in backwards, and that was causing the watchdog. Once I flipped it around and put it the correct orientation, my sound came back 100% perfect and no longer quiet from the old leaky caps. Phew!

This was my first time ever attempting this repair, and besides this orientation flub, there no issues at all. I used my Hakko to remove the old module; Chipquick to remove the 2 chips, and then careful iron work to get everything where it should be. Definitely not a repair for beginners, but it's good to know flipping the module doesn't fry anything :ROFLMAO:
 
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I know most people have really good magnification setups. I did this all with a Chinese hand-held magnifying glass. I recently started using sendcutsend to cut acrylic pieces for me, and then my Glowforge to cut/etch the pieces. This particular one needs some work, but everything came together.

xmen1.jpg
xmen2.jpg
xmen3.jpg
xmen4.jpg
 
For any one who hasn't done this I do solder paste and iron and no magnification. You can do a straight line of solder and it will connect on the contacts.
 
One of these days, I'll need to do one of these on a Lethal Enforcers board that currently has the ole janky (but quite functional) thru-hole electrolytic cap replacement repair on it. Do you just glue the SMT down with superglue or something to hold it in place while soldering? Are there any videos of this whole process?
 
One of these days, I'll need to do one of these on a Lethal Enforcers board that currently has the ole janky (but quite functional) thru-hole electrolytic cap replacement repair on it. Do you just glue the SMT down with superglue or something to hold it in place while soldering? Are there any videos of this whole process?
God no you don't glue the chip down before soldering. I have found soldering paste is the easiest to work with. I also have a new module with the smd already swapped if you can manage the through hole.
 
I pre-tinned the pads, and then lined it up carefully. Once I was happy with the alignment, I tacked one leg on while holding down the chip with my finger. This held it in place, but let me move it slightly to make sure it was 100%. From there, I went around and touched each leg to attach, and then double checked under magnification. I had 3 or 4 legs that I am pretty sure were fine, but I wasn't totally happy, so I went back and touched them up.

The 3 sides were pretty easy, but the one near the tiny cap was a little bit tougher. Once I was happy with the results, I soldered the socket pins on last.
 
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Apply some good SMD tacky flux to the pads (I like AmTech), hold down the IC, tin the iron and and tack a leg in place in each corner. Then put a little more flux on the legs, tin the iron, and drag it across the legs and pads. Perfect every time.
 
I just did this on a second board, and it's WAY easier not pre-tinning the pads. I just set it on, tacked one leg, and then each leg after that the solder just wicks right up from the pad to the leg. I didn't need to go over any joints a second time.

Rock on!
 
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