Is 5.34 too much on the +5v for pole position?

tron guy

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And if it is, how do I adjust it?

The crazy games have 2 separate arII's in them?

I should mention that the game as messed up graphics and is somewhat frozen and will not coin up
currently.


I want to find out before I throw the PP2 boardset I have into the machine.
 
yes, too much. you should turn it down to 5.0-5.10.

I am pretty sure 1 audio reg adjusts voltage on 1 board and the other one handles the 2nd board. Make sure the boards edge connector is not burnt. Slide the board partially out of the cage. Clip some leads to the +5v test point on the pcb then turn the pot (usually light blue)on the audio reg board. If its not effecting the board clipped to, then turn the pot on the other audio reg.

If you plan on keeping the game you should replace the big blue caps. You need to remove the leaking battery on the board too.

Pole position is a pain in the ass. they always have board problems.
 
one of my boardsets still has jumbled garbage, the other one
says

ram22

where is this located on the board? :eek:)
does radio shack or fry's have replacements for this?
 
ok, I went out there and messed with the "ram22" board and now it works!!!!!!

well it's in test mode and says everything is ok, I am going to crazykong right now, to see what dip switch setting gets me out of test mode.


edit:
she's fully working now.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Nice to hear when one works! Did you adjust the voltage too?

yeah I got it down to 5.04 or something like that.

I need to go cut the batteries off of both boards.

I am pretty stoked that I have a working PP.
I also have a complete 2nd one to try to get working.
 
It is nice to see someone getting something accomplished. My PP is still exactly the same as it was months ago. Nothing but 0s on the screen.
 
5.25v is the recommended maximum operating supply voltage for 74xxx TTL logic ics. above that the manufacturers dont guarantee the ics will do what they are built to do.

so provided the voltage at the test points on the board &/or ICs are under that (and above the 4.75v minimum recommended supply voltage) they should perform as expected.
 
Pole Position

A tech that use to work for an old operator showed me this: He was constantly having to replace the small 1/4 watt resistor on the AR board and having intermitent problems with game.

Best thing I ever did,

Pick up some 16 to 20 ga wire(I like the stranded because it is more flexable) along with a handfull of Female spade connectors that match the ground test points on the PP boards and the AR boards. I crimp and solder the spades out of habit.
From AR to AR to the main P1 to P2 ,tye the grounds together using One test point on each of the boards. Alot of the problems with the PP boards was complements of the edge connectors grounds getting flakey. I also removed the daughter board and go directly into the main boards with the wirring harness.


I have also done this for the +5 volts line. I set the Voltage from the AR board at 5.1 at the Test point of one of the Main boards. I only had black wire at the time so the +5 wire is marked with a piece of red tape on each end.

Did not add extra wire, for the 22 volt or 12 volt lines.

I redid all of the earth grounds, using a screw and a star washer to get a better bite on the metal.


I also mounted a small 12vdc fan that draws air accross the boards from the back to the Front.

This has keeps my Pole Position Alive and (Knock on Wood) free from Problems.

I also installed the AR II board kits from Bob Roberts.

I replaced the Big Blues, capped/rejuved the Monitor. You got to love the picture on the Monitor, especially for it's age. Some Burn but I feel that adds to the game.


This has keeps my Pole Position Alive and (Knock on Wood) free from problems. My Pole Position was the first game I ever bought.

RJ
 
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