Installing outlet in Tempest cab

[masterfx]

I want to add a powered subwoofer to my Tempest cab (output from Arcade Jasons board) and a 120v fan and need to know if this is a good idea to add an outlet in the cab? Can I run the power cord into a fuse block like the one pictured and bridge, then from the block running to the new outlet and off to the power brick? Seems like it would work but whether or not it's a good idea, Id like to hear from people much smarter than I. If so, what amp fuses should go there?

 

[Texas_Funnyhair]

I guess that would work but you could also just make a connector for what you want to power from the 120V plug on the power brick, to the left of the main fuse in this pic



Tempest would only have one, to power the fluorescent fixture, but some Atari bricks add a second connector off of the 120V coming into the transformer. Like Pole Position to power a 120V fan and the marquee light.

 

[Scott C]

Texas_Funnyhair is correct, and I've also done this multiple times. It works great, is neat, matches what Atari did, is reversible, etc.

Scott C.

 

[VectorCollector]

Adding a subwoofer - good.
Adding a 120V fan - bad.
Using the Power Brick - best.

 

[Kid Raster]

My Tempest has a fan running from that location and has never had an issue.

 

[masterfx]

Adding a subwoofer - good.
Adding a 120V fan - bad.
Using the Power Brick - best.

Any reason the 120v fan would be bad? Seems the easiest route without tapping into any other lines? Guessing noise?

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Any reason the 120v fan would be bad? Seems the easiest route without tapping into any other lines? Guessing noise?

Noise is #1.

A 5 vdc pancake fan works just as well. Find a Sunon - they are used in Nintendo Mario Carts panels with a LARGE CRT and heat load, and work well.

 

[masterfx]

Noise is #1.

A 5 vdc pancake fan works just as well. Find a Sunon - they are used in Nintendo Mario Carts panels with a LARGE CRT and heat load, and work w

Is there a slick way to tap into a 12v or 5 vdc line? I am only familiar with very basics with all this, thanks!

 

[ArcadeTechGW]

Is there a slick way to tap into a 12v or 5 vdc line? I am only familiar with very basics with all this, thanks!

Yes. Get out the schematic, and identify the 5 VDC and 12 VDC line. Probably better to go to the 12 VDC line. It's unregulated and won't connect the motor to the power supply for the game board.

 

[Arcade2007]

Noise is #1.

Yes - the AC in the stator windings produces an associated magnetic field of varying magnitude and direction - which acts like a degaussing coil operating continuously in the vicinity of the 6100. This causes very undesirable variation in both the display color and image stability. Bad idea!

A DC fan is the only way to go.

 

[Kid Raster]

Any reason the 120v fan would be bad? Seems the easiest route without tapping into any other lines? Guessing noise?

ATGW gave useful information to an extent. My machine has a 120v SUNON fan operating from that location that does not create any interference in-game at all. Does create some fan noise, though only from the fan. Stator windings and cardinal grameters don't seem to be an issue here.

 

[Arcade2007]

Testing before permanently mounting the fan - whatever your choice - would be a good idea.

 

[masterfx]

I guess that would work but you could also just make a connector for what you want to power from the 120V plug on the power brick, to the left of the main fuse in this pic

View attachment 845134

Tempest would only have one, to power the fluorescent fixture, but some Atari bricks add a second connector off of the 120V coming into the transformer. Like Pole Position to power a 120V fan and the marquee light.

So your saying if I add an additional Molex to the empty spot on the block, and bridge the wires from the 120v Molex to the additional Molex I should be good to go or is that a bad idea? drew some lines on my pics

 

[KaBoom1701]

No, it's the molex white connector just next to the box you drew. You can see where I added two AC Infinity fans to my Pole Position and where I tapped into the 120v at the same location. Works great to keep these dumb Atari games cooler. In this case I used two fans. One to draw air in and one up top to push it out of the cab. The AC Infinity fans run super quiet but I mounted the speed dial near the coin door test switches in case I want to adjust it on the fly.

 

[purpleibby]

Yes - the AC in the stator windings produces an associated magnetic field of varying magnitude and direction - which acts like a degaussing coil operating continuously in the vicinity of the 6100. This causes very undesirable variation in both the display color and image stability. Bad idea!

A DC fan is the only way to go.

12V DC fan is the way powered from HERE, how I did mine...run it right and the wires blend right in with the harness...did this 5 years ago...still running great...if you can hear a fan...the games/music aren't loud enough

 

[ArcadeJason]

Is there a slick way to tap into a 12v or 5 vdc line? I am only familiar with very basics with all this, thanks!

The ar2 has 2 test points labeled 10.3v and ground. The 10.3 is more like 12v real world measures. This can run a 12v fan easily. And blade style connectors will fit right over the test points. This way you don't damage anything on the harness. For the powered woofer you could use more blade type connectors on the interlock wires. Or as someone has said above you can use the 120v output plug on the brick.

 

[masterfx]

Alright running new outlet plug makes sense. That being said, couldnt I just buy a cheap 120v to 12vdc transformer to plug into the outlet and run my fans and LED marquee? That would seem to streamline this whole thing?

 

[mecha]

I've put fans in Tempests over the years. it was never this complicated.

also a lot of these old games are very bass heavy naturally. I genuinely don't understand the need for a subwoofer, but you do you

 

[Scott C]

My Star Wars UR has been running a 120v fan for 15 years, with zero issues. Neat, easy, clean, and no additional stress of the AR2. As mecha said, why over complicate this?

Scott C.

 

[alfonzotan]

Yes. Get out the schematic, and identify the 5 VDC and 12 VDC line. Probably better to go to the 12 VDC line. It's unregulated and won't connect the motor to the power supply for the game board.

That's what I did. Piece of cake.