In search of Daytona USA diagrams

Daytona...

Thanks for the plug ya'll. Sounds like you got some problems more serious than wiring. To start with amps, you should be able to find exact replacements on ebay. If harnessing's been chopped, you might as well use a standard home amp/ receiver type set up and utilize those RCAs we never used out of the Sound Bd. Then you can go with a little Bose system. Super cool.
Ok now for the really bad. Don't worry about those 10 LEDs on CPU bd. I never documents anything specific for these. Ifyou have pcb schematics you could trace it thru. But we never released these to field. So, if its running, great. The red LEDs won't be on. If not running, the red LEDs just tell you somethings wrong and its not going to help knowing what graphics processors bad. These just indicate problems on five specific graphics processors, all fine pitch QFP so you won't be going there. If anything red is on, you will need to send set in to me. If you see liquid damage, its really needs to come to me. I've repaired over 4000 Daytona sets so far. Probably 1500 were liquid damaged. Maybe more.
Ok for Sound bd, those four LEDs just indicate sound changes. When one sound plays, one LED lights. Next sound, next LED so when its running they will change sequentially . If Game Bds dead there will not be any sound.
As for wiring diagrams, the one we used for twin, standard and LE all were hand drawn and though accurate, they kind of sucked. You can find the Dx diagram I'm sure. All the electronics you're concerned with will be accurate on that diagram.
 
Thanks irepairsega for the input, and the previous help. Well my machines worked well for a few years and were played extensively. Now back to one of the original issues that I did not document! Darn it. Video has garbage on it and no way to get to diags. I'm assuming it's an issue somewhere on the main stack and hope to determine this when I go back up in a few days to swap the slave stack to the master. Not a voltage issue as before (thanks again for the validation of 5.01 voltage from the cage on that) so not sure whats up. May need to send to ya to have validated/repaired as I now have angry natives on my butt to get them working. LOL
 
Yikes! Ok send me an image or video of what screen is doing. Maybe its something I can talk you thru or we can decide if its something needing repair here.
 
Another goog bump for Ken, great guy to work with. He repaired a few of my Indy 500 boards a while back, and they've been solid ever since.
 
Yikes! Ok send me an image or video of what screen is doing. Maybe its something I can talk you thru or we can decide if its something needing repair here.

Appreciate it. Sorry for the delayed response.
Here is a pic from 2011 which is the same thing it is doing now. I ended up replacing the complete board stack back then, but here it is again. Wondering if resetting the backup ram might take care of it but I won't be back where the game is for a few weeks at least. voltages at cage check ok @ 5.01 volts.

second issue: On the slave unit, once game starts, there is no control of car, tires spinning but not really moving. Eventually get hit by other cars. voltage at cage check good here too.

My spare board I will probably have to send to you as there is a bad connection somewhere in the stack as video (once race begins) can be grainy, or colors off. Tapping on board stack changes the problem but does not "fix" it. I've reseated all chips that were in sockets but no change.
 

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Sega Daytona

Set in pic is dead. I suspect corrosion. Other set most likely has opens on large QFPs on Video Bd along with I/O Bd issues. If you check input test, what are the pots at? Most likely they are all FF. If so, either they are not connected all the way to 32P connector on I/O bd or something in the A/D circuit is bad. I can repair both pcbs. I don't thing you will be able to do this in field. Want to send me two Game Bd stacks and the I/O Bd?
 
I ran diags when I was up there last weekend (not on the one with garbage on screen because as you stated, it's dead) on the other two sets and the input tests readings would change when steering, gas, and brake were applied. They weren't very far off from what I recall they should have been. Steering I believe was in the 7x reading in center. I did swap what I believe was the I/O board (the one with the diag switches on it in the cage) but made no difference.
I might be able to get up there this weekend and if I do I will PM you when I get back. Is the I/O board also located in the cage (the one with 4 white round diagnostic buttons) or is it one outside of the cage?
 
Daytona

You got it. Two of those buttons are test / service. The Steering should be roughly 80h at center. The Brake / Gas should be just under 30H. None should affect the other pots. Make sure you have 5vdc across the outer pins of pots. If all good it should be working.
 
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