In search of Daytona USA diagrams

bluestreak

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So I acquire a set of twin Daytona's for a decent price.
The primary "works" but has been hacked up pretty bad. So bad it's missing the Audio amp/regulator for the main speakers, wires are just laying inside and even if I acquired another amp (which I am in search of) I'm not even sure I am going to be able to reconnect it. It's that bad.
But I degress.
I'm trying to find a site/resource/location that I might be able to get additional board identification, layout, etc than is what is on KLOV.
Even though there is a bunch of information here, it's pretty much general to setup and basic troubleshooting.
I've searched threads but seems I'm in the same boat as others in the past.
Can't wait to get these fully working, but I'm afraid it will be into next year.
Anyone know of a place to acquire better info on it?
BTW, I did take a quick look at Ebay, but no idea if the manuals I found are the same as what is already on here or not.
Any info would be appreciated.
Thanks
 
Thanks for the link. This manual has a bit of additional info about testing so that's good.
The bad thing is the slave unit barely powers up and has different LED's lit on the processor board and I have no clue as to what they are supposed to indicate.
I haven't checked my PS voltages, so as in your sig, I need to do that first.
Can't even get into diagnostics.
I'll keep searching, but thanks for the link.
 
Checked voltages and they are OK. Noticed there may have been a soft drink spilled at some point onto the main processor stack.

Probably going to be my issue but I still would like to know what LED's 1-5 (green) and LED's 6-10 (red) indicate when they are lit if anyone knows. More so 6-10
LED 1 and 10 are lit now, with garbage on the screen. 10 shouldn't be lit.
 
Thanks, I forgot to mention I already downloaded those. Guess I just need to dig into them a bit more to trace wires and such and identify what board is what.
If it comes down to it, Ken sounds like a good option.
 
I went on a crazy Easter Egg hunt to try to find out what those LEDs meant....I came up short.

At least you have a working side..you can always start swapping boards in the stack from side to side and at least narrow your probably down.

I have a VR problem on my other side..that's probably what I'm gonna do.
 
it's missing the Audio amp/regulator for the main speakers, ... if I acquired another amp (which I am in search of)


I have a bunch of Sega Daytona/Virtua Racer amps stashed in box.

I got them in a bulk purchase
(...where most of the boards worked.. )
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=161618

Some audio boards actually look brand new.

If you're still looking for one,
I can try to dig one out,
... but I can't make any promises that any work.

PM me.

Steph
 
I went on a crazy Easter Egg hunt to try to find out what those LEDs meant....I came up short.

At least you have a working side..you can always start swapping boards in the stack from side to side and at least narrow your probably down.

I have a VR problem on my other side..that's probably what I'm gonna do.
That's what I was thinking I may have to do, but I'm afraid of blowing up my good board set swapping them around.
I may end up with no choice, but for now I'm still digging for info.
 
It is very common to have soda spilled on the main boardset. There is NO good documentation available from what I have seen. Your best bet is to contact Ken and send your boardset off to him.
 
If you end up needing any parts, I have a bunch of the auxillary PCB's as well as some complete Model 2 and Model 3 boardsets. So if you're looking for something in particular, chances are I probably have it.
 
This is what I'm up against after pulling all of the hacked up loose wires and harnesses out. Borrowed replacements from the slave unit which wasn't working anyway. It's getting repaired eventually too.
But I have stamina and today it's only 102 degrees out here in the garage with 20 percent humidity.
Plus the Bud is good and cold.
Anyone ever seen the CPU cage lids for sale anywhere. I'll be needing 2 of those too.
Now need to find out why I'm measuring 8 ohms on left side speakers and 16 ohms on right before powering up with replacement amp. Will have to review Schems to find out which is correct.
Probably hacked up wiring there too.
Geez.
 

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Yippie, audio working now but have question if anyone knows.
I searched on it but only found a few posts and no answers.
Has anyone ever taken apart the FF clutch on the steering to see if anything in there can be replaced to get it back to "new"?
I've tried to set the stiffness in the setup menu, but it still doesn't seem right.
Also, any input on the other issue of all of a sudden your driving in the clouds syndrome.
I think in may be in the CPU or maybe ROM bd although no errors show up in diags?
Any help is appreciated.
 
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I have some Daytona USA manuals around here somewhere if you need me to check them for wiring diagrams...
 
It would be great if it described what the LEDS on the CPU board mean when lit, but otherwise I believe I have the wiring diagrams. I'm checking with Ken on possible repair on the boards as that seems to be the most efficient way I'm going to get the intermittent driving in the clouds taken care of, short of completely replacing the boards.
 
I have the same VR issue...Car would just go where it wanted..including way off the track.

There's a resister that can be shorted..I think it clears the video RAM. If that clears your problem up I think it a sign that you might be having a video RAM issue.

However my problem ended up being a couple of bad eproms...ironic enough they were the one all the way to the edge\begining of the board..in direct path of liquids and such.

I'll see if I can find that info...

ETA: On the CPU board, locate component 'PC62'. With the game powered off, use something to jump over the component like a jumper wire etc and hold it there for 20 seconds.
 
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Not sure I'm understanding what jumping pc62 will prove? A bad resistor?
I'm not at the house, so can't look at the board right now, and trying to understand so I can work with it tonight.
The game seems to work OK for about the 1st 5 minutes, and then much as you are saying, it clears the video RAM, and then you're driving in the clouds with no way back to the track. If I power the game off and back on, it's good again for a few minutes.
 
Called Ken this afternoon, and the great guy he is, actually helped me repair my "driving in the clouds" issue. Good thing it only took about 10 minutes. :-0
Turned out the voltage AT THE BOARD, very important!, was below the minimal 4.97 volts. Suggested to be 5.01 volts. (measure between any yellow and white wires at the cage)
I had 4.78 and Ken was suprised it even worked. Adjusted to 5.01 and now I'm good to go on that. I'm very happy about it.
Now on to the typical monitor repairs and cosmetics. And the slave unit which does have CPU board issues. :-(
Progress is good!
 
THread necrophilia... Yay, this fixed my daytona USA twin. Voltage at the cage is key!!

Thank you dead thread!!
 
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