I'm trying to figure out what kind of transformer I need for my monitor

funkotronic_2000

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I'm trying to figure out what kind of transformer I need for my monitor

Hello

I have an original Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles arcade with a 25-inch monitor, standard resolution. The transformer for the monitor needs to be replaced because it is arcing. I was told the replacement part would be around $30, but I am having some trouble locating the exact part. I am seeing many transformers for sale online, some that are that price and some that are more. What's the best way to know which one I should get? Can I figure it out without opening up the cabinet and checking serial numbers?

I'm pretty green at this so I'd certainly appreciate any help with this hopefully easy-to-answer question.

Thanks!
 
Arcade games get modified and "hackensteined" a lot, so pictures would help. But without that info, I'd guess that you just need an isolation transformer. Email Bob Roberts, he'll hook you up.
 
That sounds like the flyback. If it is arcing there is about an 80% chance other parts need some fixing. Open the back (with the power off) and look for model number on the chassis (not the tube) and post back. There are a number of members here that are familiar with most of the monitors and can advise you better. A number of them also repair monitors for a reasonable fee. I send most of mine to Modissett (Steve) in Austin. He does a great job and reasonably priced. A number of others use Arcadecup (Chad) and have good things to say. But pictures and monitor model number will go a long way to getting you the right answers.

ken
 
I just opened it up, and the serial number on the chassis is WG (Wells Gardner) 813301. Just for good measure, the tube's serial number is WG 438390. edit: this is apparently the serial # for both the tube and the chassis.

Sorry I don't have any pictures. I might be the only American who doesn't have a camera.
 
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Can anyone tell me anything based off of that information? Is there any more info I can give you? I'm also planning on calling Arcadeshop LLC on Monday to see if they can help me figure out what I need.

Going off a hunch, I'm assuming one of the WG K7000 flybacks would work?
 
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We would need the model number (like 19K4901) and what is arcing. There is a world of difference between the iso transformer (120V) and the flyback (25,000V).
 
Where do I find the model number? It might be missing.

Also, I don't really know the difference between a flyback and iso transformer. I just know that the transformer for the monitor needs to be replaced, whichever one that is, because it is arcing.
 
There could be a dozen different monitors in that machine, so you'll have to look for it or send a picture. Also, how do you know the transformer is arcing? Did you see it? If so, where is it arcing from, and where too. What does the "transformer" look like?
 
That's what I was told by the person I bought it from. After looking at the back, my guess is that it is the black, sort of rectangular box below the tube. I'll see what I can do about finding a camera.
 
That's what I was told by the person I bought it from.

Yeah, that's what I figured. I'm thinking he was referring to the flyback transformer. Not sure how an isolation transformer could be causing arcing. If so, he's about right on the price of the part. But what he didn't tell you is that it's not a matter of just "unplugging" the old one and "plugging in" a new one.

Do you have soldering and desoldering equipment and skills? If not, you'll either need to buy the equipment and learn to use it in order to install the $30 part. Otherwise, you'll probably pay someone another $50 to put it in for you. Unless you befriend some local video game collectors, and someone with the equipment & skill comes over and does it for you while drinking your beer.
 
Cool. Thank you.

I see it listed on Bob Roberts' site at $20 for a replacement or $28 for a repair kit. ($19 on Arcadeshop.) So if I were to get the part from one of those places, that would be the one?
 
I'm thinking he was referring to the flyback transformer. Not sure how an isolation transformer could be causing arcing.

Me too. "Monitor transformer" got me thinking iso, and from there "arcing" registered as "shorting out" until you mentioned the fly.

For the OP; this isn't a hard job, but it does require some electronics repair skill. If you don't already own a soldering iron and some desoldering braid, this may not be for you. And after the fly, there may be other parts that will require additional skill to diagnose and replace. If you're getting into this hobby and want to learn to repair your own, go for it. If you just want the game working, send it out for repair.
 
Cool. Thank you.

I see it listed on Bob Roberts' site at $20 for a replacement or $28 for a repair kit. ($19 on Arcadeshop.) So if I were to get the part from one of those places, that would be the one?

Yep, Anyone selling a K7000 series flyback is it.

Edward
 
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