If you need a TV for a tube swap...

modessitt

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Look for a Signature 2000, originally sold by Montgomery Ward. It has an A48JKL60X tube made by Sharp. It uses a CR-23 adapter, so it will work as a replacement for G07, K4600, K4900, etc. The mounting flanges are forward, but you can use a spacer in the frame...
 
I should have been keeping track of these TVs. Does anybody have a running list of CR-23 TVs?
 
Look for a Signature 2000, originally sold by Montgomery Ward. It has an A48JKL60X tube made by Sharp. It uses a CR-23 adapter, so it will work as a replacement for G07, K4600, K4900, etc. The mounting flanges are forward, but you can use a spacer in the frame...

Does this mean you won't need to swap the yokes?
 
I should have been keeping track of these TVs. Does anybody have a running list of CR-23 TVs?

Someone is probably trying to do this - but I honestly don't think it matters. There are hundreds of different models of TV sets that have compatible tubes. Just look for "likely" ones, and pick them up. In many cases, you can see through the vents in the back to verify that it's the correct neck diameter. It's just a gamble, and in most cases, you'll get a good tube. If you don't get a usable tube, then at least you've got a TV out of it.

-Ian
 
You have to measure it, but the Yoke for a G07 and a 4600 are completely different. Generally the 4600's are similar to the 7000's, and the G07's are similar to the 4900's.

So the CR-23 or whatever refers to the pin out, but not necessarily to the impedance of the yoke?
 
Correct. Tubes can be used for a variety of monitors but the yokes pretty much have to match the chassis. If you find a TV whose yoke impedance matches your arcade monitor consider yourself lucky. If you ever break a tube hold onto the yoke.
 
I'm interested in this as well. I just pulled an untested G07 out of a hacked up cab, and the monitor has a lot of burn in from multiple games. I want to get the deluxe kit from Bob, but $40 is a lot to spend on a monitor that may or may not be worth a shit.
 
Even if you do a tube swap, you'll still need to rebuild the chassis, so go ahead and spend the $40...
 
Even if you do a tube swap, you'll still need to rebuild the chassis, so go ahead and spend the $40...



Well I've never done a tube swap, and don't have a lot of access to parts, so I'm a little unsure. The monitor is burnt bad, and the whole inside of the cab was filthy. I just pulled it 2 days ago and have yet to inspect closely and see if the chassis is worth repairing. It's more of a question of if it's a parts monitor or something I can get to work- not so much if I should rebuild the chassis. If it's not a complete loss, I'll rebuild it.
 

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Well, you can get it to work perfectly as far as the chassis goes. It won't help the burn-in unfortunately. Tube swaps aren't too difficult if you can find a compatible tube.

Otherwise set the entire chassis aside for a later date when you need one, and rebuild it then...
 
Well I've never done a tube swap, and don't have a lot of access to parts, so I'm a little unsure. The monitor is burnt bad, and the whole inside of the cab was filthy. I just pulled it 2 days ago and have yet to inspect closely and see if the chassis is worth repairing. It's more of a question of if it's a parts monitor or something I can get to work- not so much if I should rebuild the chassis. If it's not a complete loss, I'll rebuild it.

dude, if you think its scrap anyways... why not TRY a tubeswap?

worst case itll look liek ass and youll toss the monitor anyways right??

so give it a shot!
 
Well, you can get it to work perfectly as far as the chassis goes. It won't help the burn-in unfortunately. Tube swaps aren't too difficult if you can find a compatible tube.

Otherwise set the entire chassis aside for a later date when you need one, and rebuild it then...

Thanks for the link. Looks like after the swap has been done, there's some fine tuning that need's to be done.


dude, if you think its scrap anyways... why not TRY a tubeswap?

worst case itll look liek ass and youll toss the monitor anyways right??

so give it a shot!

First I need to finish the cosmetics, and then it's on to the monitor. I don't know if it's scrap yet... I still have to look it over.
 
Thanks for the link. Looks like after the swap has been done, there's some fine tuning that need's to be done.

Sometimes. it depends on whether you do your research and take all the precautions possible to keep from needing any fine-tuning.

First I need to finish the cosmetics, and then it's on to the monitor. I don't know if it's scrap yet... I still have to look it over.

If you DO toss it, save the chassis. If nothing else, I'll pay the shipping for you to send it to me rather than toss it...
 
Sometimes. it depends on whether you do your research and take all the precautions possible to keep from needing any fine-tuning.



If you DO toss it, save the chassis. If nothing else, I'll pay the shipping for you to send it to me rather than toss it...




I'm going to look into it further now. So I can try to avoid all the fine tuning, as I'm not really set-up for it.

I will not throw it away. If I get to the point of being too frustrated, I'll offer it here, but I seriously doubt that'll happen.
 
The other option is to by a new chassis from Alvaamusments. They have an 8 pin tube version and a 10 pin version with or without a built in ISO. These chassis boards also come in two flavors, low IMP version that works with yokes measuring 8-15 ohms and high IMP version that works with yokes measuring at 30-55 ohms. Here is a TV tube I used a WEI-YA 2620s 8 pin low IMP on...http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=114317
 
The other option is to by a new chassis from Alvaamusments. They have an 8 pin tube version and a 10 pin version with or without a built in ISO. These chassis boards also come in two flavors, low IMP version that works with yokes measuring 8-15 ohms and high IMP version that works with yokes measuring at 30-55 ohms. Here is a TV tube I used a WEI-YA 2620s 8 pin low IMP on...http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=114317

That still wouldn't help with the burn-in. A properly rebuilt G07 would be just as good and cheaper overall...
 
That still wouldn't help with the burn-in. A properly rebuilt G07 would be just as good and cheaper overall...

Well I was just saying these chassis boards will work with a wide array of TV tubes while not having to change the yoke.
 
I dont know why people are so scared to swap a yoke over , the yoke is the easy part , as long as you keep the convergence rings in the correct position and marked when you slide them off , its a cakewalk to do a swap, many without having to piss too much with adjustments other than color and hold
 
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