Ice Cold Beer (probably multiple issues)

Scucci

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So... got an ICB.

When I turn the machine on, the Game Over star lights up, the lights on the playfield light up and strobe. The game makes NO sound (addressed below) and doesn't coin up.

I checked some voltages around the board/cabinet. The coindoor is getting it's voltage, I've got 5.02V on the +5 TP... but no 12V at the TP on the board. (hence no sound)

I pulled the power supply board and started looking at it. It's been worked on and BR1 and BR2 are different parts when, according to the manual, they should be the same. Looking at the solder, BR2 appears to be the original part, while BR1 is new (SK9075, RCA8508). I just want to go ahead and replace both of them with a known good replacement.

For other threads, the original parts are supposed to be (can't read mine) BR 251 25A 100V, where can I find replacements for these guys?

Also, is there anything else I should check for to get this back up and going? I've cleaned the edge connector and checked all fuses and fuse holders... they're all good. There really doesn't seem to be too much to this board, so I can't imagine there would be much that could go wrong with it.
 
Here's some service info:

http://www.downloadpipe.com/forums/games/Ice-Cold-Beer-Repair-Log-ftopict215220.html

http://arcadecontrols.com/BBBB/coldbeer.html

According to my NTE cross reference guide, the BR1 and BR2 bridge rectifiers on your unregulated power supply board are 100 volt, 2 amp. These cross to an NTE 166 or an RCA SK9075.
Other suitable replacements are:

NTE 167 (200 volt, 2 amp)

NTE 168 (400 volt, 2 amp)

NTE 169 (600 volt, 2 amp)

NTE 170 (1000 volt, 2 amp)

The great big bridge rectifiers on the power chassis can be any of these:

NTE 5322 (200 volt, 25 amp, lug terminals)

NTE 5324 (400 volt, 25 amp, lug terminals)

NTE 5326 (600 volt, 25 amp, lug terminals)

NTE 5327 (800 volt, 25 amp, lug terminals)

NTE 5328 (1000 volt, 25 amp, lug terminals)
 
Thank you, I'll check everything out when I get back home.

I really can't imagine there being anything else wrong with this game other than power issues... there's almost nothing to the game (compared to some other games).
 
Yeh there really isn't much to this game, especially the power supply.

I saw one local tavern give this game away a few years ago and all it had wrong was a shorted bridge rectifier.
 
Yeh there really isn't much to this game, especially the power supply.

I saw one local tavern give this game away a few years ago and all it had wrong was a shorted bridge rectifier.

I'm not sure if anything is shorted... no fuses blowing (which I would imagine would be the primary symptom)... but maybe all I have an open diode in there... dare to dream.
 
I have some bridges in stock. Does it have QD lugs or wire leads? Either way, the wire lead one will work. I have never really looked at my ICB power supply, does it have heatsinks on the bridge? If not, sure wouldnt hurt to add them.
http://www.pacmandotcom.com/catalog/24

Na, it's the little guys on the PS board.
http://www.nteinc.com/specs/100to199/pdf/nte166.pdf

I've been putting off a Mouser order for a few months now... guess now's the time to finally do it.

I pulled them off of the board to test (didn't need to, but figured... why not). Both were bad... I have no idea how I was even getting 5VDC to the boards... anywho, ordering replacements and spares. Hopefully these will get the thing back and going... somehow I doubt it. But, here's hoping.
 
Okay, replaced the bridge rectifiers on the PS board... oddly enough Radio Shack actually had ones that would work... go figure.

Now I have 12V back because I can HEAR the machine resetting... it's acting like the watchdog is pissed off.

Any ideas about where to go now? There is VERY little information out there on these guys, any help would be much appreciated.
 
Okay, fixed the watchdog/reset issue. Back socket on the 6116. Now the left motor pulls up, while the right motor pulls down. CP is not connected... already checked that.

Since one problem was a HORRIBLY corroded socket, I'm going to assume I'll been to replace all the sockets. ... So, I'm just going to shoot myself in the head and call it a night for now. I'll get back to lifting traces tomorrow... (seriously... very corroded... couldn't even tell without pulling the black frame off of the pins of the socket).

EDIT: Ohhhh... and another little piece of fun... no ball... WTF? lol It keeps getting better and better...
 
Okay... replaced a few more sockets... I lied... I didn't go to bed.

She's living now, I can trick it into thinking it's found the ball... but I REALLY need to find that ball, or A ball... anything. I think a marble would work in the meantime... sadly... I lost my marbles.

But, she's up and running now. Just have to reattach the bar, get some balls, and hopefully everyhing will work from there.

I'm not getting any music... I could've sworn it played "99 Bottles of Beer on the Wall"... but I do get the sounds when I move the joysticks.

I guess I'll just handle this a little bit at a time... she runs, I'm happy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpitYfmmr1o
 
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i don't recall either the Zeke's Peak nor ICB at FullThrottle's playing any music until a ball is successfully delivered to the appropriate hole. maybe background music is an operator-selectable option?
 
I just watched the video and the music is clearly playing. I noticed in your post above that you said the music wasnt playing.It should play when you start a game and then when you loose a ball and start again.
 
I just watched the video and the music is clearly playing. I noticed in your post above that you said the music wasnt playing.It should play when you start a game and then when you loose a ball and start again.

Sorry, I still can't log in with my proper username... gotta love that.

Anywho, yeah.. I got the music working shortly after I posted, sorry about that.

It plays at all the proper times now. It wasn't playing at all at first... just reseated everything (again), started to work.

I've since ordered 3 replacement balls, and already made plans to fix the bar. So... should be good to go by the middle of next week. Then it's just a matter of waiting for warmer weather to repair the bottom "foot" (the little frame that has the metal legs on it... just woke up a little bit ago, words aren't coming to me right now).
 
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