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Please post all monitor technical topics in the Technical - Videogames - Monitors section, not in the General Help section.
Ice Cold Beer…beer drinker needs help badly!
- Thread starter Yoeddy
- Start date
kcorcoran
Well-known member
This thread title. haha.
This game now needs an audio hack.
"alcoholic needs beer, badly."
This game now needs an audio hack.
"alcoholic needs beer, badly."
OP
OP
Well, I connected up my alligator clip wire to TP17 and the other end to a GRND post on the game board. Doesn't do anything because it immediately tilts. I guess I can't pass the required state of the game to run tests. What I did do is take out all of the switches except for the 4 that control the motors. If I leave the ball out and power up, the solenoid tries to find the ball and kick, so I know that's working. After it tries several times, it goes into Out of Order.
I can run a switch test on all of the switches on the playfield manually. After the solenoid stops, I can trigger any ball hole switch, and that makes the solenoid fire. All ten made the solenoid fire, so that seems to prove that they are working. Once I get the new switches, I'm going to pull the playfield again and switch out the 4 motor switches with the new ones. God I hope that's all it is, otherwise I'm out of ideas other than it maybe being related to the board. I'm probably going to toss a switching PS in there too.
If it is the game board, does anybody know who fixes them?
Thanks,
Jason
I can run a switch test on all of the switches on the playfield manually. After the solenoid stops, I can trigger any ball hole switch, and that makes the solenoid fire. All ten made the solenoid fire, so that seems to prove that they are working. Once I get the new switches, I'm going to pull the playfield again and switch out the 4 motor switches with the new ones. God I hope that's all it is, otherwise I'm out of ideas other than it maybe being related to the board. I'm probably going to toss a switching PS in there too.
If it is the game board, does anybody know who fixes them?
Thanks,
Jason
Riptor used to fix them. You might PM him.
OP
OP
Well guys, I'm about at the end. It wasn't the fault of the switches…all tested good. I also replaced the cap kit on the game board, removed chips from their sockets, and applied DeOxit as well. The chips looked fantastic! I suspect it's the board at this point.
Any other suggestions? Thanks!
Jason
Any other suggestions? Thanks!
Jason
OP
OP
Hi guys, I need some help figuring out the orientation of the power connector relative to the switching power supply. I have hooked up many of these to my games, but ICB has me confused because of how the power is converted. There is a +5 wire that comes off of the adapter that connects to TP8. Instead of soldering it on, I just crimped on a female end for a pin onto the wire which will grip the pin nice and tight. No problem there. Strangely, I took a measurement off of that pin when it is connected to the main power supply and there's only +1.4 volts showing on my meter. Weird.
Anyway, I measured all of the voltages on the switcher when it is powered up, and everything appears outputting the proper voltages. I just need to know which way the connector goes onto the pins.
Like this? So the H on the connector is visible? Or flipped around the other way?
Thanks,
Jason
Anyway, I measured all of the voltages on the switcher when it is powered up, and everything appears outputting the proper voltages. I just need to know which way the connector goes onto the pins.
Like this? So the H on the connector is visible? Or flipped around the other way?
Thanks,
Jason
OP
OP
Never mind, guys, I got it. Same issue as before.
Going to send the board off.
Thanks,
Jason
Going to send the board off.
Thanks,
Jason
OP
OP
Ok, all socketed chips (except ROMs) were replaced with parts from APAR. No change.
Board was tested in another machine…same results.
Talked to John at Eldorado Games, and I've sent the board out for repair.
Cross your fingers for me!
Thanks,
Jason
Board was tested in another machine…same results.
Talked to John at Eldorado Games, and I've sent the board out for repair.
Cross your fingers for me!
Thanks,
Jason
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Good luck. Fingers crossed for you.
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Ok guys, I got the board back from El Dorado games and John was exceptionally good with communication and the status of the board. The data input line for the tilt was grounding, causing the board to lock up. The test switch was also bad inside. The NO and NC would activate together when you pushed the button, so they just wired in a micro switch and it works 100%.
I have the board connected to the original linear power supply, and it's working great. The 6.3v #44 bulbs (incandescent and LED) are nice and bright. I also hooked up the switching power supply from Arcadeshop just for grins, and those bulbs are dull…almost like they're getting 5v. Maybe I'll call Stephen up to see what's going on, and if maybe one of the jumpers on the adapter is in the wrong spot or something.
Anyway, it's so nice to see it back in action again! Got a Phoenix Arcade front glass coming for it too.
Thanks for the help, everyone!
Jason
I have the board connected to the original linear power supply, and it's working great. The 6.3v #44 bulbs (incandescent and LED) are nice and bright. I also hooked up the switching power supply from Arcadeshop just for grins, and those bulbs are dull…almost like they're getting 5v. Maybe I'll call Stephen up to see what's going on, and if maybe one of the jumpers on the adapter is in the wrong spot or something.
Anyway, it's so nice to see it back in action again! Got a Phoenix Arcade front glass coming for it too.
Thanks for the help, everyone!
Jason
Kid Raster
Well-known member
She's a fuckin' beaut!! 
OP
OP
Thank you for following up with an update after it was all said and done. I read a lot here and it's sometimes frustrating because then thread just ends.....
