IC socket installation technique

DarrenF

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So when installing an IC socket, do you:

1) tape in on until it's soldered in.
2) slightly bend a couple of the legs, so it holds itself in for soldering.
3) find a random object laying on the workbench to prop it up on, holding the socket in.
4) other [please describe]

I've variously used all of 1-3, most often 3. Just wondering what other clever methods there are.
 
I have a couple of oak blocks that I use for supporting the socket, leftovers from when I did the new side rails on my Black Knight playfield, so almost #3 but not a random item.

-Hans
 
Digikey sells sockets that have pre-bent legs that "hug" the board. I ordered some again we'll see how they work...I tried a few last time and loved em, BUT on a thicker board there may not be much leg to solder to.
 
I put a ball of solder on my iron, hold the socket (or ic) tight to the board, and 'tack' it in place with the solder on the iron. Once its positioned correctly, I finish the rest of the leads and redo the 'tacked' leads.
 
I put a ball of solder on my iron, hold the socket (or ic) tight to the board, and 'tack' it in place with the solder on the iron. Once its positioned correctly, I finish the rest of the leads and redo the 'tacked' leads.

Ahhh, interesting. The solder-a-couple-pins-single-handed method. I haven't tried that one (yet)...
 
I put a ball of solder on my iron, hold the socket (or ic) tight to the board, and 'tack' it in place with the solder on the iron. Once its positioned correctly, I finish the rest of the leads and redo the 'tacked' leads.

Been doing it that way for years. Works pretty good.
 
i do a combo of #2 + gutz

i bend a leg, and then flip the board over tack it, and then push down on the socket and make sure secure and do opposite sides.

then i solder alternating.

ie, if 14 pin dip.

1, 8, 3, 10, 5, 12, 7, 14, 9, 2, 11, 4, 13, 6

this way the heat does not build in one area of the board.

i also make sure the board is cleaned well, freshly tinned, and no "excess" solder.

i then go back and quickly heat each leg back up to make sure there is no stress on them.
 
#4

I use a sponge. I insert the socket then place the sponge over the socket on the component side. It is springy and has give. Then I tack two of the corner pins while I apply slight pressure to the board to ensure the socket is tight against the board. I have a solder exhaust fan that is heavy enough when I place it on the board that it provides enough weight to apply the downward pressure. If you have several sockets in a row you can do them in multiples, limited by the length of the sponge to cover them. If there are tall components on the board you may have to use two sponges. If there a tall parts surrounding where the socket needs to go which will block the sponge, I have a small rectangle of sponge to go over the socket then use the post card sized sponge over that. Those scotch brite ones are just the right size and thickness.

Bill
 
I put a ball of solder on my iron, hold the socket (or ic) tight to the board, and 'tack' it in place with the solder on the iron. Once its positioned correctly, I finish the rest of the leads and redo the 'tacked' leads.

this is also what i do
 
I put a ball of solder on my iron, hold the socket (or ic) tight to the board, and 'tack' it in place with the solder on the iron. Once its positioned correctly, I finish the rest of the leads and redo the 'tacked' leads.

+1 here.....
 
I put a ball of solder on my iron, hold the socket (or ic) tight to the board, and 'tack' it in place with the solder on the iron. Once its positioned correctly, I finish the rest of the leads and redo the 'tacked' leads.

Same here.
 
I usually bend over the VCC and GND pins and then just solder everything. You could bend them then solder the others first then slightly bend those two back then solder.
 
I hold the socket on with my left hand, flip the board over, place the end of my solder on the pad and touch the iron to it which tacks it in place. I do this to the opposite end and then solder the rest of the pins. Then I go back and reflow the two pins that were tacked. The whole process takes a few seconds.
Folding the pins over is not a good practice. It greatly increases the chance of lifting a pad if it ever needs to be removed again.
 
I hear ya on that. If I bend any it's just enough to lightly touch the sdes of the hole, then I bend them back straight when I resolder those.
 
Bah....whatever works. There's no "wrong" way to do it as long as the socket sits flush and level. No need to overthink such a simple mechanical operation....
 
Not that I've done a ton of them, but I've usually had a couple holes that are slightly blocked, so when I put the socket on, I need to hit those holes with the iron so it slides into place & seats fully. That residual holds it in place just fine while the work continues.
 
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