I think my WG4600 flyback is gone!

toolguy

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Doing research and from what I've found, I think my WG 4600 flyback is gone!

Take a look at the pic, is the brown goo on the top mean it cracked and is gone? This is the only spot I see this glue/goo...

Or is this normal?
 

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I certainly hope Bryan.

It looks OK to me and it will adjust when I turn the focus. I know these things are usually rock solid and rarely fail but I thought I could have one of the first to fail. And I know finding new is next to impossible!

And my finger is pointing to my width coil that looks like ass! I guess I should replace it.
 
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The brown goo is supposed to be there. It keeps the unit from vibrating and making a "singing" noise. Check Bob Robert's website for his "singing" flyback write up and you will see what I mean...

I had a 4600 with a brand new flyback mounted on it and when I pulled it to do a cap kit I found SEVERE electrical burns on the frame behind it. Obviously the original had blown out but I have never had one do it to me....
 
The brown goo is supposed to be there. It keeps the unit from vibrating and making a "singing" noise. Check Bob Robert's website for his "singing" flyback write up and you will see what I mean...

Will do! Thanks guys! I feel better now, this is my first color monitor, still learning...
 
Like anything old they do go bad. I bought a Pacman with the original K4600 and the HOT was shorted. I replaced it and the new one blew as soon as I fired it up. I couldn't find anything else wrong so I pulled the flyback out of my Frogger K4600 and swapped it and the monitor fired up and worked so the flyback was bad. I left it on for about 8 hours and it was fine. The next day I turned it on and later it was dead again and the Hot was shorted. I found another used 4600 flyback and replaced it and installed a new HOT and it's been back up running ever sense. So they do go bad but seem to take out the HOT when they go.
 
What's the actual problem? I just messed with 2 of these yesterday, both had severely poor picture, and I took one that look better, did a tube swap from an old tv using the original 4600 yoke (tube is actual proper number for a 4600), and it looks like a brand new monitor now.

I wanted to mention that the brightness knob on the side of the video interface board can get very touchy - I have several where if you look at them too hard they go from too dim to fully washed out white pic. You may also want to replace the 16v 1000uf cap on that board as well.
 
What's the actual problem?

Well long story. I am mid restoration and the monitor worked before, just had some lines and not vibrant colors. I did a cap kit and the monitor looks worse. One thing for example is the pic will not stay centered and a I get a srolling pic with a white line. I thought I needed all new POTS and tried to find them, only to discover these monitor POTS are obsolete and I would have to try POTS to fit them. So I changed from a POT focus to the board issues as I know those too can cause weird monitor like issues.

I know I have board issues as the machine plays like a PacMan, it did when I got it too, even with my all new Ms Pac ROMS. I have no characters i.e. Ms Pac or ghosts, shown either, that one just happened when I was told to check and reseat the daughter board chips.
I have a bad ribbon cable board socket, one female pin was pretty much gone, so I'm fixing that tonight and will then plug it in and see what I get. After that, its new sockets for the daughter board then I will see what I get.

If nothing changes, I'll post pics of the monitor pic behavior.

The only CAP I did not replace is the .10uf 1600volt. I also chcked the yoke connecter for a bad solder joint yesterday and did not have one. I also checked b+ voltage and had 127.8VDC.

While I was doing research recently, I discovered flybacks can leak when they go bad, thus I thought mine had this issue from the "goo" I saw.

So that's where I'm at right now!
 
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ALSO when you did your cap kit - did you happen to resolder all the header pins for the 2 little boards that stand up? If not they should definitely be resoldered. Some are tough to get to around the plastic frame but not impossible.
 
Do you have another machine or board you can try it with? What you're describing could be ground and/or sync issues too!

No, this is the only color monitor game I have...


While doing the cap kit, I noticed a broken trace on the large board, right between two pins for the smaller HOT board. It was a break of a few mills, I did not think this was right so I soldered in a bridge wire. It looked to me for ground too.

Woudl the manf have broken this trace on purpose?

Does that sound right to you? I did not take a pic, sorry...
 
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ALSO when you did your cap kit - did you happen to resolder all the header pins for the 2 little boards that stand up? If not they should definitely be resoldered. Some are tough to get to around the plastic frame but not impossible.

Yup, I did all those joints at the cap kit time. Then I pulled all the boards again and hit every solder joint, still no change.

Thanks for the help BTW...
 
The smaller board in this pic, bottom left surrounded by aluminum, male pins come up from the larger maroon board. Broken trace was running between two of the pins.

Oh and speaking of grounds, my neck board ground cable was not connected when I got it. I've connected it to the side of the chassis, like the tube spring ground is and checked continuity from the chassis to the large board ground bundle, the one with the yellow and green wires coming from the power supply.
 

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