I need to adjust the width on my T2 but i'm afraid

action53

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It's a 25 in Wells Gardner, the picture looks awesome but the left side is a bit squished (barely) and you can't see the life bar on either side. While not a deal breaker, i'd still like to adjust the width so you can see the life bars and recenter it but I've heard all kinds of horror stories about width coils breaking. With my luck in monitors lately I figured I'd ask first, I'm probably just being paranoid...
 
Time to get your hands dirty. Just use one of the plastic TV adjustment tools, let the monitor warm up a bit and then slowly start turning. If it's frozen solid, brittle or breaks, you can replace it. Don't fret over it.
 
Show us a picture of your image. The horizontal width coil doesn't really offer much in the way of picture adjustment; it may not be worth the effort to adjust it.
 
I was playing around with a bunch of K7000 chassis in need of repair. I went to see which ones had frozen width coils.

The "best" looking one was frozen and the rest weren't. My plastic tool didn't want to move this one at all.

Knowing I had nothing to loose, I went and got a metal allen wrench. I forced that puppy right along working it in and out as I went. Didn't physically break anything. Moves great now and the threads look ok too.

It was a non-working chassis in my pile of to repair chassis (for when I learn how to work on chassis one day). So, I can't say if I "broke" the chassis, but no physical damage happened. It just felt like a tight screw before it broke loose.
 
I was playing around with a bunch of K7000 chassis in need of repair. I went to see which ones had frozen width coils.

The "best" looking one was frozen and the rest weren't. My plastic tool didn't want to move this one at all.

Knowing I had nothing to loose, I went and got a metal allen wrench. I forced that puppy right along working it in and out as I went. Didn't physically break anything. Moves great now and the threads look ok too.

It was a non-working chassis in my pile of to repair chassis (for when I learn how to work on chassis one day). So, I can't say if I "broke" the chassis, but no physical damage happened. It just felt like a tight screw before it broke loose.

You got lucky. That ferrite slug is delicate; under normal circumstances like you've described, forcing the slug with a metal allen wrench will cause the slug to crumble into a million pieces. You shouldn't have forced it with a metal tool.

If you have a siezed ferrite slug, just turn on and run the chassis for a couple hours to warm up the circuit board (and the coil). Then try again with the proper tool. Most times a stuck coil can be sprung free by warming up the coil. I've even gone so far as to remove the coil and warm it up on a towel with a heat gun to get it super warm, then try running the adjustment tool through it and spinning the coil. That got one to un-stick for me too.

Nearly every time I've tried to free a stuck slug with a metal allen wrench I've broken the coil.
 
You got lucky. That ferrite slug is delicate; under normal circumstances like you've described, forcing the slug with a metal allen wrench will cause the slug to crumble into a million pieces. You shouldn't have forced it with a metal tool.

If you have a siezed ferrite slug, just turn on and run the chassis for a couple hours to warm up the circuit board (and the coil). Then try again with the proper tool. Most times a stuck coil can be sprung free by warming up the coil. I've even gone so far as to remove the coil and warm it up on a towel with a heat gun to get it super warm, then try running the adjustment tool through it and spinning the coil. That got one to un-stick for me too.

Nearly every time I've tried to free a stuck slug with a metal allen wrench I've broken the coil.

I got lucky on a broke chassis that I'll likely never get around to fixing. That figures. ;)
 
you would probably benefit more from just changing C38. security0001 or Buffett should have an assortment of replacements you can use.

I never do anything with width coils for this purpose. if your image is skewed too far to a side and the H. Pos won't work it out, there's 3 pins near the width coil for L Center and R starting points for the image you can dabble with too.
 
i like to use a hair dryer when i need to free them up.

even with no towel or other protective material, you can't burn the plastic.

it heats it evenly and slowly.

yes i also have a wide variety of width caps.

Peace
Buffett
 
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Its good to know that I'm not the only one terrified to mess with monitors. My Carnival is way out of focus and I'm scared sh*tless to try and fix it because I dont want to get zapped.
 
Its good to know that I'm not the only one terrified to mess with monitors. My Carnival is way out of focus and I'm scared sh*tless to try and fix it because I dont want to get zapped.

well, your local to me, bring it by the shop and i will take care of it for you.

Peace
Buffett
 
you would probably benefit more from just changing C38. security0001 or Buffett should have an assortment of replacements you can use.

I never do anything with width coils for this purpose. if your image is skewed too far to a side and the H. Pos won't work it out, there's 3 pins near the width coil for L Center and R starting points for the image you can dabble with too.

Yes i have huge kits....;) i stock a ton of other values besides the dozen values that come in the kit.
 
I'm not so afraid of working on monitors, I just don't want to break my coil. The h pos pot moves it from side to side but even all the way to one side or the other I can't see the whole health bar. It could probably benefit from a cap kit but I don't really feel like like doing all that at the moment. If I can't adjust it out I'll probably just live with it for a while.

I know they're not the best but these are the only pictures I happen to have on my phone
 

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