I need some help with some monitor adjustments please!

Gov

Active member
Joined
Sep 7, 2012
Messages
1,016
Reaction score
1
Location
Springfield, Missouri
I need some help with some monitor adjustments please!

I picked up a Dynamo cab today off of CL and it has a 39 in 1 board in it. The owner said it seemed to work fine other than the picture was too big for the screen. It was a good deal so I picked it up anyways as I have been wanting to build a multicab and I figured using a Dynamo cab would keep me from at least being burned alive here ;)

Anyways, I have been working on the adjustments and I have the color pretty good now and was able to adjust some of the vertical size and such, but the picture is still stretched vertically way too much (see pics). I am going to assume this is a Zenith monitor of some kind as can be seen in the pics. From looking at the board diagram the Horizontal Size control is way over on the other side of the board from the other controls and no reachable while the monitor is plugged in and charged. There is however a hole in the bottom of the frame that goes through to the PCB. I can't quite get my head in there to see if there is an adjuster of some kind but it looks like it is in about the correct place for the Horizontal Size adjuster.

Is this where you adjust this? I am assuming this is the adjustment I need as all of the other ones didn't do what I needed regarding the picture.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1716.jpg
    IMG_1716.jpg
    96.7 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_1718.jpg
    IMG_1718.jpg
    91.8 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1720.jpg
    IMG_1720.jpg
    90.6 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1722.jpg
    IMG_1722.jpg
    90.7 KB · Views: 19
  • IMG_1728.jpg
    IMG_1728.jpg
    88.2 KB · Views: 14
It looks like a nice crisp monitor. The frame of the monitor looks like its a 20'+ tube. Is the bezel covering more than an inche of the tube on all 4 sides?
 
It is a 25" monitor. No the bezel isn't covering any of the monitor, I can see the sides of the monitor from the front.
 
You need a plastic hex adjuster to adjust the horizontal width (which is your problem on this monitor) and you may possibly need to replace a cap with a different value if you can't get it with the width coil. I had to replace the width cap on my 19 in 1 as I just couldn't adjust it properly.
 
Ya I just found a video about it. Sucks I will have to wait about a week to get one if I order it. Oh well. Does anybody know if that hole in the bottom of the frame is for the horizontal coil? It would be a lot easier to reach from that side.
 
Well, I think I accidentally fixed it ;) I found some flat plastic rods that I have for some other projects and had one that fit perfectly in the Horizontal size coil. It is perfect now :) There is a loose connection somewhere though because if I tap the side of the cab or move the cab, the screen will get really red and flicker back and forth. So, I will have to figure that out at some point, I am just glad it is working for now. There is a bit of ghosting too.

I do know one thing, the menu/attract mode music for the 39 in 1 is the most annoying thing ever, is there a way to disable it?
 

Attachments

  • WP_000579.jpg
    WP_000579.jpg
    91.2 KB · Views: 7
  • WP_000580.jpg
    WP_000580.jpg
    87.9 KB · Views: 6
  • WP_000581.jpg
    WP_000581.jpg
    87.9 KB · Views: 6
  • WP_000582.jpg
    WP_000582.jpg
    89.8 KB · Views: 5
Well, I think I accidentally fixed it ;) I found some flat plastic rods that I have for some other projects and had one that fit perfectly in the Horizontal size coil. It is perfect now :) There is a loose connection somewhere though because if I tap the side of the cab or move the cab, the screen will get really red and flicker back and forth. So, I will have to figure that out at some point, I am just glad it is working for now. There is a bit of ghosting too.

This is likely a cold solder joint. You might need to reflow the solder on the bottom of your monitor chassis and neck board.

I do know one thing, the menu/attract mode music for the 39 in 1 is the most annoying thing ever, is there a way to disable it?

It depends. Does your multiboard use hard dipswitches (little set of switches on the board) or does it have a menu you can activate while the game is on?
 
The 39 in 1 has a menu with dip switch settings. There is a 'demo music' option which I turned off, but that only disables the music when it is showing a game in attract mode, as soon as it goes back to the main menu the horrible music comes back. It doesn't look like it can be disabled. It wouldn't be so bad if it weren't just a 5 second audio clip repeated over and over and over again ;)

I am probably not going to keep the 39 in 1 for long anyways since it has a Jamma harness I may just use a JPAC and a PC to run MAME that way I will have more control over it.


As for the solder joints, that is kind of what I figured it was. I have never done any soldering like that but I figured I would need to learn at some point ;) Thanks for the responses.
 
Sure thing. Check out the website arcaderepairtips.com
This is a great beginner's website for various issues.

As for the cold solder, you just heat up your soldering iron and place the tip over the existing solder. This will heat it up and melt it back together. A better monitor tech could tell you what area of the chassis/neck board to focus on, but I am not that man. Personally, since I have the chassis out anyway I usually just reflow the whole thing.
 
Right on, I will check it out. I need to finish up my DK restore first which is about 75% done and then I will start working on this thing. One thing I know I am going to do is rotate the monitor to horizontal which is nice with this cab as it is an easy conversion. While I have the monitor out for that I will look at re-flowing the solder.
 
your chassis in the cab is the K7000a zenith model.

it needs a cap kit and a reflow of the chassis and neck board.

that will stop the flickering action that happens when you rock/smack the cab.

the bad news about that chassis is that if the flyback goes out there is no replacement other than a used working pull.

the good news is the tube and yoke are the same as a regular WG K7000 chassis.

so if it ever goes bad on you you can swap them out and have a good working monitor for years to come.

i sell and fix the K7000 chassis if you need yours fixed or do not want to do it yourself.

Peace
Buffett
 
Back
Top Bottom