I need a Sprint buddy..............

smoke

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Bummed out dudes...I need a Sprint buddy about now....my Sprint crapped out last night...dam thing has been rock solid...all I did was finally install the "correct" #46 bulbs in the coin doors...Yahtzee! oh man that looks great I thought...all games on working and all coin slots lit and working....oh what a sight, LOL.

it was short lived made a trip in the house hung out then went back to play a few games.....OMG! sprint screen is going ape chit jumping track dots all over the place...rebooted once still bad...shut it down for the night...it was kinda warm last night and figured it just got hot....tried this morning same deal...crap! had to get to work......

back home now... reseated and cleaned all chips and the edge connector, even adjusted a few connector points that looked like they were pressed down to far and maybe giving me a bad connection and cleaned them all....game is back and playing good.... but no sound....had hum at the speaker and it followed the pot up and down with tone....on off a bunch of times, wiggled edge connector while hot ....nothing but the hummmm.........back out front I was closing coin door to grab another credit noticed no hum from the speaker...ohm'd out the pot, tracks fine from the bottom up somewhere around 23 ohms....still no hum...crap.

taking a break...is the stock speaker a 8ohm or 4ohm unit, next move i guess is to go after it behind the marque and light...it dont look fun!!!.......cant believe its bad, but who knows...I tried a 8ohm box speaker jumpered in I had for a second but nothing.

so the million dollar question has anyone chased no sound on one of these???...up till I lost the humming speaker I was thinking the board was not kicking out any sound signal to the speaker......board looks good nothing melted or jumping out at me........any ideas?

I snooped around the net not finding a pdf of the manual to check out.


Peace, B.


me sad
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I just saw the same thing last weekend on a Sprint 2 at Ken's. Dots all over the screen. PM AtHomeTech it was his game and he said he thinks he got it working again
 
I just saw the same thing last weekend on a Sprint 2 at Ken's. Dots all over the screen. PM AtHomeTech it was his game and he said he thinks he got it working again

I did not have a sound issue with mine, I had the dots but no jumping around and no sound issue.

Mine was a bad PROM at P4
 
crap...I let it go for awhile, it was playing fine...it crapped out again...now I have random numbers all over the screen.......

I am at my trouble shooting limits now as newbie to these....how do you diagnose a PROM?

I have a good meter and know how to use it...I am not schooled on these games other than what I have observed on here and paying attention and few youtube vids.

anyone have a pdf manual on this critter to share?

thnx, B.
 
10/4 on it with the link, will report back after taking meter readings off the board.



Thnx for the help, B.
 
ok,

Red= 17.85ac

yellow= 9.48dc

blue=5.05dc

I am zone of the link except the Red AC point readings....guessing it's critical like the 5V signal on the other games?....

I guess the 2 dohickys bridged from the redpoints to the yellow on the board are drifting...there input V is 8.92AC



........any ideas from my readings?





the Link says.

Atari's early black and white games all had their power supply circuitry, main game circuitry, and sound circuitry integrated on one board. If your game on power up makes a humming noise from the speakers and shows nothing on the display, it's likely the game's ICs are not getting the +5v DC that they need to operate. Here's how to test the power supply of Sprint 2 (and possibly other Atari games from this era).

The image to the left shows the test points for the Sprint 2 power supply. Click it for a larger view of the image.

Place multimeter leads on each of the RED points to test AC input on board. The multimeter should read around +16.5v AC. If it is dramatically different (mine is 17.5v AC), check the edge connector and cabinet wiring.

Place black multimeter lead on a DC ground point (a 7400 series IC is a good option)

-then-

Place red lead of the multimeter on each of the YELLOW points. These should measure about +10v DC.

Place the red lead of the multimeter on the BLUE point. This point should read +5v DC. If it doesn't the L323 could be bad.

Please note: a short somewhere on the board can cause the readings at the YELLOW and BLUE points to be off while the components of the power supply are in fact fine - this is currently happening on one of my Sprint 2 pcbs.


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Those readings are in line with mine pretty much. My 5vdc was actually 4.9 and my 16.6v ac was 17. Thats not likely the problem. If you cant find anyone to fix it up there or a new board I could do it I suppose. Probably a nominal charge, parts and shipping...

-Ken
 
Is that a picture of your board with the edge connector? It looks like the traces at the top are eaten up, and the edge connector pins are popping out the side of the connector.

I'm not familiar with Sprint boards, but that doesn't look normal to me.
 
board looks really nice and clean, someone replaced a couple things on it, and built up a few of the edge conn points on the board, I believe it's making good contact at all points, I metered it all and everything is there.....looks like it's in need of someone to test components? probably a chip and I cant test that stuff yet.

AtHome, I have been told about guy up this way who does boards I need to ask for his number from the smac guys...if he is backed up or not into doing it I will give you a buzz, appreciate the help guys.

thnx B.
 
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