I Need a lead for an expert ATARI Technician

PhoenixStar

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So pretty much just as the title of the thread says.

My Stun Runner soundboard went 85% bye bye (77 out of 108 sounds not working), just as most others have due to haste/production flaws. ATARI really messed this up from the factory, and Ive heard urban legend stories of a handful of people getting them fixed before.

I almost had a great connection with someone else (not affiliated with KLOV), but just as we were about to get things rolling this person dropped off the planet.

So Im asking you. . .If you know of someone with Atari board/sound board repair experience, or someone who believes they can honestly do the job (not a weekend warrior who wants something to tinker with), and they are in good standing with the arcade community, would you please direct me to them?

Thanks
 
Why not do it?

Rebuilding these boards isn't too tough. Requires a little patience, but it's not bad. I'm no expert, but I've done two and they worked out fine. There are rebuild kits available (I know Bob Roberts has one) and it's pretty straightforward soldering.

I'm not the expert you're looking for, I'm sure, but it's possible to do yourself. If the sound board is your problem, of course!!

Are you sure it's an issue there? Not the PCB?
 
Some sounds are generated through the YM2151/YM3012, and some are generated through the MSM6295. Sounds like one of the two paths is bad.

Throw a scope on the analog outs and see if it's the chips or the amps....
 
Rebuilding these boards isn't too tough. Requires a little patience, but it's not bad. I'm no expert, but I've done two and they worked out fine. There are rebuild kits available (I know Bob Roberts has one) and it's pretty straightforward soldering.

So you lost sound on your S.R. soundboard and it all came back after a Bob Roberts Kit?
Do you have a kit #?

Some sounds are generated through the YM2151/YM3012, and some are generated through the MSM6295. Sounds like one of the two paths is bad.
Throw a scope on the analog outs and see if it's the chips or the amps....

Is that checking for continuity or something else? Could I do the test with a multimeter or do I have to use an o-scope?

Thanks for the advice
 
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