I may have found the best Clear for Pinball Playfields

Zack5959

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I may have found the best Clear for Pinball Playfields

Forgive me if this has been discussed or discovered, but Im still a noob and learning.

Countless sources tell me Automotive (2 part) clearcoats are the hands down best for playfields.
Since this is my first pin project, Im not quite comfortable enough to disassemble the underside of the playfield so it can be cleared professionally out of a spray gun.
Hunting for the home-use answer, I found this:
http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm
clearcoat1.jpg


Its a 2 part Spray aerosol with an activator that enters through the bottom of the can! Sweet! Its good for 16 hours after the activator has entered the can.

Unless I get a wave of negativity about this, Im gonna order some for my Lost World thats ready for clear.
 
Looks pretty sweet. A good alternative if you dont have a compressor and gun. It will also elimate any spray painting noob mistakes like incorrect nozzles, pressure, air/paint ratios and water and crap in the lines.

The only thing I would be concerned about is getting the coverage even.

Looks like you could be the guinea pig!
 
I don't want to be a Debbie Downer, but if you'd really need to disassemble just as much to do that as you would any other type of clear, incl professional. You can always put the playfield on top of a simple 1-by wood frame to mask the bottom. You need to detach and pull to the bottom anything that sticks up through the playfield - standup targets, drop target assemblies, etc... can just let the hang under the playfield. Drop mechanisms aren't too bad to remove, use zip ties, labels, tape, etc.. and just mark it up.
 
After a dose of reality this morning, I think Im going to use Varathane on the Lost World, as its a proven reliable product.

When I do my Flash Gordon next, I will try the stuff in the 1st post.
 
Good choice not to use that stuff. I have tried it and was not impressed. If you are going to use auto clear go for a two part product and spray with an HVLP gun.
 
Good choice not to use that stuff. I have tried it and was not impressed. If you are going to use auto clear go for a two part product and spray with an HVLP gun.

Would you mind sharing your experience with us?
 
The biggest issue is poor performance from the spray nozzle. I used three different cans all with the same issue. In the fan pattern the edges were heavy coming out of the can and other spots were not as heavy causing pretty bad banding.

If you are going to do it right I would either stick with Varathane in the can (which sprays great) or buy an HVLP gun and compressor. To me there is no other way since you want your project to come out as nice as possible.
 
Something else too, your Lost World was not urethane clear coated from the factory, IIRC it was lacquer. Duplicolor makes a pretty nice auto lacquer called Paint Shop you can buy from auto parts stores but you will need a spray gun or an airbrush to apply it. Here is a photo showing the gloss from lacquer

http://gaming.metahugh.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/DSC_1152.jpg

That Funhouse playfield is trashed but you can get an idea of the level of shine from the lacquer.
 
Well, Ive been doing some testing of my own just to satisfy my curiosity.
I cleared 2 pieces of veneered wood with Varathane and Dupli-Color Automotive Clear in a rattle can.

With both pieces allowed to dry for 2 days, here is what I did and the results:

First I took a pinball and literally dug it into the surfaces, back and forth over and over.
Varathane: Noticeable marring of the surface
Dupont: Nothing

Second, I put these pieces of wood on a duplicate angle and let a ball slide down.
Varathane: Good movement
Dupont: Much smoother, faster roll.

Third:
I laid both pieces down on the floor and literally threw the ball at them.
Varathane: No damage, just dented wood
Dupont: No damage, just dented wood.

Looks:
Varathane: Looks good but not a glassy appearance
DuPont: Its like a polished sheet of ice.

These tests were done with no wax applied to the coating or the pinball, FYI.

Thought Id share.
 
Well, Ive been doing some testing of my own just to satisfy my curiosity.
I cleared 2 pieces of veneered wood with Varathane and Dupli-Color Automotive Clear in a rattle can.

With both pieces allowed to dry for 2 days, here is what I did and the results:

First I took a pinball and literally dug it into the surfaces, back and forth over and over.
Varathane: Noticeable marring of the surface
Dupont: Nothing

Second, I put these pieces of wood on a duplicate angle and let a ball slide down.
Varathane: Good movement
Dupont: Much smoother, faster roll.

Third:
I laid both pieces down on the floor and literally threw the ball at them.
Varathane: No damage, just dented wood
Dupont: No damage, just dented wood.

Looks:
Varathane: Looks good but not a glassy appearance
DuPont: Its like a polished sheet of ice.

These tests were done with no wax applied to the coating or the pinball, FYI.

Thought Id share.

Sounds good, though I suppose it would be more fair to give the Varathane the proper drying time.

I figure by now would be long enough time? :)
 
I ended up using the Spraymax.... it turned out amazing.
Ill post pics soon.
 
I'm at a point where I may want to do this myself, actually. So your method/technique would be appreciated.
 
I would use an automotive clear, any of which are a vast improvement over the rattle can products.

If you're concerned about compatibility between the lacquer substrate and a urethane clear, there is a product (House of Kolor SG-100 intercoat clear) to deal with that.

When the time comes, I will drag the project to my friendly neighborhood body shop where the painter has the knowledge and equipment to apply the stuff properly. That might cost me a 12-pack or two.
 
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