I keep forgetting - G05-801,-802, and V2000 swapping

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I keep forgetting - G05-801,-802, and V2000 swapping

Got an Asteroids in the shop. It has a V2000 in it. The big connector on the side of the deflection board has had the wires cut, then crimped back together for some reason. I don't know if this is because the big connector from the cab was originally for an -801 and someone moved the wires on that IDC connector in order for it to work with the V2000? or whether they just put a new IDC on it and left the order alone.

Anyway, I'm fixing some issues, but would like to take a -802 I have here at home there so I can test the -802 to make sure it works. I need to know whether it'll just hook up or whether it needs an adapter?

I know I can pull out wiring diagrams to see if the V2000 is wired up normally or not, or whether the connector from the Asteroids is wired properly for the -802, but I figured I'd ask here and see if anyone knows before I get there tomorrow.


BTW - on the V2000, it has a blooming issue (most likely the HV diode) but it is also pretty dim. If I turn the brightness or contrast up, I get the dot in the middle and in the center of the asteroids, but it's still not bright enought. I've seen bright blooming pics before, so I'm not sure if the blooming issue is also causing the brightness issue. Oh well, I'll find out when I get an HV diode in...
 
The 19V2000 and G05-802 can be swapped with no mods to the connector.
The G05-801 can not be swapped with either, without modifications to the wiring.
 
The 19V2000 and G05-802 can be swapped with no mods to the connector.
The G05-801 can not be swapped with either, without modifications to the wiring.

I know. I just didn't know if this has been modified or not.

I guess I'll have to pull the schematic out and check the wiring....
 
When I get home...

I can take a pic of the connector for my AD cocktail. It's got a 15V2000 in it which is the same as the 19V2000 pinout. Let me know if you want me to do that and I will.
 
Thanks, I got it. Had to swap the wire postion of P500 between 4 and 5 to use an -802 deflection board on the V2000 setup, but I was able to verify my problem was definitely the HV section. Replaced the HV diode and everything seems to be working fine now. I'll let it run all day tomorrow and see how it holds up.

PLUS - I was able to determine that MY Asteroids monitor works just fine, and that I have a board problem as I suspected...
 
I bought a v2000 monitor of eBay so I wasn't expecting much

I put it in a cabinet and got THE EXACT symptoms you describe, not bright enough on the screen, but when the brightness pot is increased the dot appears.

I actually bought a rejuvinator to test that monitor, and found the monitor failed the emission test

I was just a dull monitor in my case.
 
I bought a v2000 monitor of eBay so I wasn't expecting much

I put it in a cabinet and got THE EXACT symptoms you describe, not bright enough on the screen, but when the brightness pot is increased the dot appears.

I actually bought a rejuvinator to test that monitor, and found the monitor failed the emission test

I was just a dull monitor in my case.

Did you also do the contrast adjustment? If contrast is off, the picture can appear dim with dots and even extraneous lines from the Z control's relationship with the phosphor latency in an over-driven condition.

There were several revisions of deflection boards, and some used prominently mounted pots near the edge, on some revisions though, the contrast is a flush mounted pot with a plastic thumb turn handle inserted. Those often fall out, and a casual look at the deflection board (especially where it's somewhat hidden in a Deluxe or Battlezone) it's easy to miss the contrast adjustment.

As for diodes, you can get them at ArcadeShop Amusements, just remember the white band side goes towards the tube.
 
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Mine is fine now. HV diode was one I'd gotten from Bob Roberts.

After replacing the HV diode, and adjusting the brightness and contrast, it seemed brighter, but I had a lot of ambient light around the shop. Once I shut the doors and turned off the lights, it as nice and bright.

I'm thinking about going out in the garage tonight and working on my Asteroids board now...
 
Yeah, Bob doesn't have them any more (or at least didn't when I asked last year). I've bought a couple from arcadechips-dot-com, but I didn't realize arcadeshop also sells them. Always good to have two sources :)
 
Did you also do the contrast adjustment? If contrast is off, the picture can appear dim with dots and even extraneous lines from the Z control's relationship with the phosphor latency in an over-driven condition.

There were several revisions of deflection boards, and some used prominently mounted pots near the edge, on some revisions though, the contrast is a flush mounted pot with a plastic thumb turn handle inserted. Those often fall out, and a casual look at the deflection board (especially where it's somewhat hidden in a Deluxe or Battlezone) it's easy to miss the contrast adjustment.

The contrast pot was adjusted also, but didn't improve things

The tube failed one rejuvinator test so I expected some consequences
 
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