I just recapped my XXX monitor, now I have no Y color

Dokert

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I just recapped my XXX monitor, now I have no Y color

I am seeing a lot of these posts lately, and they read like this... I just recapped my XXX monitor and now all I have is Y color or Z color is missing.

Please keep in mind that if you have just recapped a monitor, it WILL require adjustment. Depending on the make, model, and how badly it needed to be capped will determine the amount adjustment needed.

Common after cap kit adjustments include any of the following:
1. B+ (especially on G07's and Sanyo's such as the 20EZV)
2. Brightness on the flyback and or the chassis
3. Horizontal Width Coil
4. Horizontal Freq or Horizontal Hold (Depending on make and model)
5. R, G, B bias and cut off's on the neck board and or chassis.
6. Black Level Pot (especially on a WG4600)
just to name a few.

If after all of your adjustments are done, you still have just one color and or a color is missing try rejuving the tube. Hooking the tube up to a rejuver will tell you in most cases if the problem is in your tube (Color guns) or a bad color transistor.
 
ahoy, I did 2 EZVs and didn't stop to think that there were some minor white balancing adjustments I had to do on my DK monitor in addition to the brightness. my Popeye one just needed brightness.

the PC-10 monitor I did recently, though in all fairness, mine was either a case of just not having the RGB connector plugged in all the way (not even sure how that happened, but it was pitch black where I had to work on it via Mini Maglite), or just cold solder on the neckboard (which I discovered after tapping on the cab). whoever worked on this monitor last too had all the color biases cranked. you should've saw how jacked up the brightness was when I got it too, probably explains all the excessive burn-in.

so I guess if you're working on an ancient monitor, it's probably a good preventative maintenance move to just go ahead and reflow the transistors on the neckboard too. this solder looked very nasty when I re-melted it.

and thanks again sir.
 
Another thing to remember is that Sanyo's have 3 different brightness adjustments.
1. Master (Main) Brightness on the flyback (Coarse adjustment)
2. Sub-brightness located in the middle right of the chassis (Medium adjustment)
3. Brightness located in the group of 5 pots to the left of the chassis (Fine adjustment)

Best practice is to...
Center the brightness
Center the Sub-brightness
Adjust the master Brightness on the fly making sure that the B+ maintains 108vdc

This is also true of Sharp monitors too. Know your monitor and it's controls, as many different monitors have either more than one brightness control, and / or an additional black level or contrast control.
 
I was wondering about that too. I need to get a table to prop these on so I can actually do said adjustments. having a vertical monitor sitting sideways makes for a difficult time to do these. (the B+ and medium adjustments in particular)

on some of my monitors I have like another black knob, it's in-between where the B+ pot is and the flyback toward the edge of the deflection board. I could research it myself but I got other things to do right now, what's that for?
 
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