I feel stupid asking this question....

modessitt

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...but apparently what I consider proper search terms produce no relevant results. And I know this has been discussed before.

Background: I have a cabinet with a unique harness (Cherry Master). I want to install a JAMMA harness without removing the original harness. I will be using separate power supplies - one to power the original game, and one to power the JAMMA games. I will be using the same monitor, speaker, and control panel for both. I will be doing this so my wife can still play the Cherry Master when she wishes, and I can swap in various horizontal JAMMA's for my arcade pleasure. I will be making a switch so that power can only be applied to either the Cherry Master or the JAMMA PCB - but never to both at the same time.

Q: Can I just connect both harness' video, speaker, and control panel wiring to the appropriate place (together) and have it work just fine, or will I need to do something like blocking diodes to keep signals from the powered board from going to the unpowered board?

Thoughts: The Cherry Master amplifies it's sound, as does the JAMMA PCB's, so the speaker doesn't need other amplification (such as with Nintendo or Atari PCB's). I don't know if a speaker signal from one PCB (or video or control panel voltage) going to the other unpowered PCB will cause damage to either, interference, or possible just make that feature not work at all. Obviously, if I need to use blocking diodes, I will need to put them on both harness. And if so, what's a good docking diode to use that is fairly plentiful and cheap?
 
Oh, and the reason I am doing this is because I planned to use this cab as a Horizontal JAMMA/Test cab, but then my wife decided she likes Cherry Master and wants to keep it.

I need to find another control panel so I can modify one with a joystick and just swap them out...
 
I have had the same question. I would like to do the same deal with a MD Pacman and an icade. You know you will be safe with the diodes.
 
Well, some searching led to this page by BobRob:

http://homearcade.org/BBBB/buildit.html

Apparently the diodes are a good idea for the monitor wiring to eliminate feedback in the picture. it doesn't say anything about sound or control panel, though.

I wonder if 1N4007's are necessary. Those are 1000v diodes....
 
Well you could use relays to isolate the signals you need So game A signals goto Relay A Monitor, or Relay A Speakers. So when Game A is turned off, your relay unlatches then Game B signals don't go piping down Game A lines.

Or you could build Opto isolation boards.
 
Diodes sound way cheaper and easier.

Trying to make this so my wife can come in and flip a switch and play her game without me being there to show her what to do - with as little work as possible....
 
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Just buy a 2 game JAMMA switcher and build a Cherry Master to JAMMA adapter.
 
My brain just exploded... Is mod seriously posting a thread asking for searching help...???!!! :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
 
Just buy a 2 game JAMMA switcher and build a Cherry Master to JAMMA adapter.

I though about that, but don't feel like it. I was going to strip the cab and sell the PCB, bezel harness, power supply, buttons, etc as a kit - but then my wife said no...
 
Any reason why a 1N4001 wouldn't work? it's a 50v diode, and the color voltages are typical 2-3vdc

I have a bunch of them handy, but not very many 1N4007's...
 
The simplest way is to leave both boards powered (either on a single supply or on two supplies with a common ground) and switch the R-G-B-Sync and speaker lead, a 4pdt & a spdt switch will provide the 5 poles needed ( or a dpdt & a 3pdt ), all the coin & control leads can then be run in common between the two games without a problem, I have run up to 16 games in a single cabinet with no control problems.
Dick
 
Well, as I said, I'm trying to do this for the wife to be able to do on her own.

If it was just me, I'd just have separate wiring setups and just plug in the connectors I want for whatever harness i was using.

And it would best if I didn't have to go out and buy multi-lug switches. One switch to flip power between them would be best, with the various common outputs (like both video reds) set with blocks to keep the flow only to the monitor, and not back to the other board.

Will the 1N4001 work? Will they be necessary for the sound and CP, too?
 
One switch to flip power between them would be best, with the various common outputs (like both video reds) set with blocks to keep the flow only to the monitor, and not back to the other board.

Will the 1N4001 work? Will they be necessary for the sound and CP, too?

the problem using diodes, are the voltage will be reduced by 0.7v. i never tried it with RGB signals, as they are actually have low voltage, i don't know what it'll cause.

as for control panel that using logic level voltage (5V), you still can use diodes.

now, for sound, i don't think you can block them with diode. sound are AC signals. would be best using normal switches for this. i read somewhere about analog switches in 74 family, maybe you can use that.
 
mod i hate to say it but your gonna have to make a cherry master to jamma adaprer because thats about the only way you will get that nice one switch simple switching you are after
 
mod i hate to say it but your gonna have to make a cherry master to jamma adaprer because thats about the only way you will get that nice one switch simple switching you are after

Nah. I'll just move connectors around inside, and tell the wife she can't play it unless she tells me a day in advance.... :D
 
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