I can has CHEESEBURGER!! Woot!! Got some questions....

[mattosborn]

Hey, Matt! That's good to know. Thanks!!!

I need one of your highscore/freeplay chips. Is it just a ROM I can burn?

You can do the freeplay just by swapping a couple ROMs, but to enable the high score save you need to put a NVRAM in location 14D (bottom board, next to the bit CPU pack). Check to see if that RAM is already socketed (some are). If so, installation is a snap. If not, you need to stop by with a 6-pack and we'll take care of it.

 

[ScumBum]

I love cheeseburgers and I love Burgertime ! Damn you've built up a nice Garcade !

 

[blkdog7]

Right on! Very cool find, I'm jeasous!! I'd love to find a Burgertime I'd figure out a way to stuff it in my kitchen with the other 2!

You need to adjust the "horizontal width coil" which actually going to adjust your vertical since the monitor is tipped up on end. Buy the Bob Roberts plastic adjustment tool kit. The hor. width coil has copper windings going around it with a hex or slot baby adjustment recessed down in the middle. Don't use a metal allen wrench, it will break it. Only takes a little turn, don't over turn it!! It sounds like you might want to do a cap kit on it just because of the "jittery" that you were mentioning... And on the monitor crooked you'll want to loosen the screws that are on the white collar near the neckboard and carefully rotate the neck board the direction you need it to go. Its a little firm at first, be gentle, but make sure you got the screws loose or you could break the neck of the tube!

On your sound I'd recommend reflowing the solder joints on any header pins or interconnects, anything to do with the sound. Check the connections and make sure nothing is corroded.

On the graphics glitches check your voltages at the board. Your 5v should be no higher than 5.10 and no lower than 5.05 in most cases. Also singly removed each socketed chip and clean the legs up nicely, reseat them carefully, do ALL the chips on the board that can be removed. Make sure to get them in straight and all the legs lined up before you press the chip down firm. They also make a chip removal tool and you want to pull up as straight as possible and carefully when removing. Also clean the edge connector on the pcb, they like to burn on the ground side!

Turns out my B+ was at 84V DC. I adjusted it to 120V DC and the screen looks less smooshed. Very happy about that right now! Thanks!

 

[TheDrewster]

That's the original, faded T-molding sir. If yours is still bright orange, it's repro.

I beg to differ. My BT is 98% original (2% being new locks). It was a HUO, so theres no surprise why its not faded. Heres a pic of it the night I took it off the truck, back in March.

 

[videodan]

Glad to see that things are looking up for the game, John.

 

[WadeLanham]

You can't rotate the neck board, you can only rotate the YOKE to twist that picture. The neck board won't spin as the board and pins are hard-fixed with the tube.

Wade

 

[blkdog7]

You can't rotate the neck board, you can only rotate the YOKE to twist that picture. The neck board won't spin as the board and pins are hard-fixed with the tube.

Wade

Actually, once I fixed the B+ voltage, it straightened out the picture. So, I don't need to do that anymore. I now need to get the image down a little. It's too high.I need to play with the jumpers. The G07 is a strange beast.

 

[WadeLanham]

I beg to differ. My BT is 98% original (2% being new locks). It was a HUO, so theres no surprise why its not faded. Heres a pic of it the night I took it off the truck, back in March.

#1 He wasn't talking to you, he was talking to John. #2, your molding looks pretty faded to me. Compare it to the molding on John's.

Wade

 

[blkdog7]

IF you care, I posted a video of the game here:

http://www.johnsarcade.com/

 

[TheDrewster]

#1 He wasn't talking to you, he was talking to John. #2, your molding looks pretty faded to me. Compare it to the molding on John's.

Wade

I know he wasnt talking to me. He stated that if you had original molding on a BT, it is faded. Mine is original and is not faded. It just looks like it because the flash made it look more washed out. If you look closely, you see that his is relative to the mustard color of the cabinet itself. Mine is still a decent orange color.

 

[DPtwiz]

 

[blkdog7]

I know he wasnt talking to me. He stated that if you had original molding on a BT, it is faded. Mine is original and is not faded. It just looks like it because the flash made it look more washed out. If you look closely, you see that his is relative to the mustard color of the cabinet itself. Mine is still a decent orange color.

I am not positive, but I think mine is original too. It looks pretty great.

 

[TheDrewster]

I am not positive, but I think mine is original too. It looks pretty great.

Oh ya definitely. A Burgertime in any condition is still a thing of beauty. Yours is definitely a very fine specimen!

 

[WadeLanham]

I know he wasnt talking to me. He stated that if you had original molding on a BT, it is faded. Mine is original and is not faded. It just looks like it because the flash made it look more washed out. If you look closely, you see that his is relative to the mustard color of the cabinet itself. Mine is still a decent orange color.

Yeah, it is definitely more orange then most you see, which are faded to a very close color to the cabinet sides. I interpreted what he was saying as "John, yours has been replaced because it isn't faded" but he might have meant it the way you thought. Not real sure after re-reading it.

Wade

 

[FullThrottle]

You can't rotate the neck board, you can only rotate the YOKE to twist that picture. The neck board won't spin as the board and pins are hard-fixed with the tube.

Wade

Yeah, I wasn't paying attention when I said neckboard. LOL, you'd snap the tube neck turning the neckboard! It really is easy to straighten the picture by turning the YOKE!