Hydra Cab

Manta

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Hi

I picked up a Hydra Cab today and was just wondering if anyone knows if a manual exist for this cab (pic attached)

I am trying to figure out how to get the plastic housing off and also how to remove the plexiglass as I undo the bolts and they just keep spinning

Thanks
 

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I just did this on a proto hydra #2. yours is probably not proto, but the dedicated is likely 100% the same.

you need to remove the steering assembly first.
1: Unplug the connector inside the cab.
2: remove the 4 bolts attaching the controller to the mounting bracket(turn the yoke 45 degrees and you will see the bolt heads). Controller will fall out once the screws are off, so be prepared.

then remove the 11+ screws holding the fiberglass shell to the cabinet. (There is 1 on top). Now the shell is free. The wires are short connecting the speakers and the boost buttons. I would pull the speaker wires and then you can pull the lighted buttons out.

That will free the fiberglass shell. The monitor plexi can be removed now. It has self locking nuts on those bolts so they will spin unless you secure both sides.

Game uses one of those mini fluorescent tubes like in assualt. So you might want to find a replacement before you tear it apart as you will have to pull the shell off again to replace it.. The manual calls it Atari part #170003-003 Fluorescent White 12-inch Lamp.
 
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Great thanks for the info, wow a bit of a job to replace some globes that's for sure.

Also thanks for the user manual but it looks like it refers to a different cab.

Will try and find the tube first, should be interesting

thanks
 
Great thanks for the info, wow a bit of a job to replace some globes that's for sure.

Also thanks for the user manual but it looks like it refers to a different cab.

Will try and find the tube first, should be interesting

thanks

Atari made 200 dedicated hydra cabs(what you have), and 850 kits for hydra(what the online manual is for). I don't think atari did a manual for the dedicated cab.

if you need to rebuild the monitor, you can remove the chassis through the rear access door. the 2 lighted buttons are probably an uncommon bulb(I did not note what it was). If your buttons flash when the boost is ready, you won't have to track those bulbs down.
 
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Only 200 wow, I wonder how many made it to Australia?

Yeah the boost buttons do not light up at all but I have read that this might be a resistor issue as well.

Will attempt to take it apart for a bit a clean i guess
 
200 was usa production. I know zero about how atari exported games. I would say very very rare..

I think the buttons run on their own connector. so maybe a pinched/broken wire or maybe a connector not plugged in. I can check my cab or take some pics if you need them.
 
200 was usa production. I know zero about how atari exported games. I would say very very rare..

I think the buttons run on their own connector. so maybe a pinched/broken wire or maybe a connector not plugged in. I can check my cab or take some pics if you need them.

That would be great

Cheers
 
Having a small issue with the cab and was wondering if anyone had any ideas or suggestions.

Basically in game and also in the test screen the controller is twitching to the right alot. You will be driving along and then it will pull to the right

Any ideas if this can be fixed???


Any help appreciated
 
Dam that sounds like a big job, would be intrested to see if anyone has done this before and has some pictures etc

Thanks for the info
 
its pretty easy to change. Remove the top cover (4 screws), then an allen wrench to free the gear. 1 nut holds the pot in place. Desolder 3 wires. reverse it and your done. 2x the work if you change both pots.

You probably take note of the orientation of the pot and th position of the pots gear and its range. match it as close as you can. Then recalibrate. If its off, you can loosen the pot and move the gear over one tooth.
 
Cool thanks, I imagine I can leave it plugged into the machine i.e. not take the whole steering control out?
 
Hi

I replaced the pot (thanks for the advise) and it was all working well, but it has gone back to it old ways of pulling to the right.

Any ideas?
 
calibrate it again in test. I am not sure how hydra saves, but if its battery, then it might be dead. If its EEprom like older ataris, it might be bad.

You might want to physically move the gears on the pots to match the whats on the screen. Loosen the pot, pull it away from the main gear, and move it 1 tooth over.
 
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