HV Diode Replacement on 19V2000

troxel

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Anyone have a picture tutorial on how to replace the HV diode in a 19v2000? I found this link, and it was helpful but it was for a g05. Any other tips on replacing the diode?

Thanks,
Theron
 
G05 and 19V2000 are practically the same monitor. Only different is a 19v is the same as a G05-802, whereas the link shows a G05-801. Only different there is the 801 has 2 boards and the 802/19v has one board. Flyback assembly should be very simliar if not identical.
 
Anyone have a picture tutorial on how to replace the HV diode in a 19v2000? I found this link, and it was helpful but it was for a g05. Any other tips on replacing the diode?

Thanks,
Theron

Clean it first, check it out... might still be good. The grease and funk can build up and cause it to leak.

For mine, I just took it out, washed it, let it dry, then regreased the ends and put her back in.

The only thing I can say about actually replacing the diode is remove the old one... bend the pins of the new one flush against the ends of the diode, snip them, and replace... The end with the line goes towards the tube.
 
Thanks for the input guys. Good information. I haven't worked with a vector monitor, so it's all new to me. I haven't taken apart the monitor yet, but the guy who sold me the game said it needed a new HV diode. Just trying to do my homework before I start on it.

What do people use for the "grease" after you clean it?

Thanks again,
Theron
 
Thanks for the input guys. Good information. I haven't worked with a vector monitor, so it's all new to me. I haven't taken apart the monitor yet, but the guy who sold me the game said it needed a new HV diode. Just trying to do my homework before I start on it.

What do people use for the "grease" after you clean it?

Thanks again,
Theron

Dielectric grease. Just keeps it sealed, clean, and prevents it from corroding.

Before replacing the diode, double check the guys work... check the can transistors on the side of the chassis. Check the fuses, check the diodes, look for burnt components, give it a recap, and check the on board transistors. My V2000 was not working when I got it... the guy said I just had to replace the big transistors on the side of the chassis... which I could already tell he had done because I later found them in the bottom of the cabinet. lol The main problem was... great, I don't remember the part number... it was in the 700 section of the board, the transistor on the heatsink. It was shorted from collector to emitter... it had taken out another diode with it as well as fried a few resistors. Minus the caps and the big transistors (I replaced them anyways because I didn't trust the older ones and new ones came in the cap kit), to was able to repair the thing with parts from RadioShack. lol... go figure.
 
I pulled the monitor out yesterday, and would like to order parts today for it. Do people recommend replacing the filter cap (C101 & C102) as well as the ones in the kit? I plan on ordering a cap kit from Bob Roberts along with the 4 transistors for the frame.

Is there any way to test the HV diode? I have read that it can't be tested like a normal diode.

My initial thought was do a cap kit, replace the transistors, clean and regrease the HV diode, and see what happens from there.

Thanks,
Theron
 
My initial thought was do a cap kit, replace the transistors, clean and regrease the HV diode, and see what happens from there.

That's all I did on mine (and replaced the burned parts) and she fired right up.

For the diode... I think you can't still test them with most normal multimeters. I just don't think the "diode test" on them will work, you'll have to do an ohm test. Check the resistance both ways... you should (don't quote me on this) get a reading in the 10,000's one way, then reverse the leads and it should show the diode to be fully open. If you get a reading both ways (short or otherwise), or it shows an open both way, then the diode is probably bad.

Again, don't quote me on that... I JUST woke up, and I haven't had my coffee or smoke yet, so I'm pretty much running on vapors right now.
 
I pulled the monitor out yesterday, and would like to order parts today for it. Do people recommend replacing the filter cap (C101 & C102) as well as the ones in the kit? I plan on ordering a cap kit from Bob Roberts along with the 4 transistors for the frame.

Is there any way to test the HV diode? I have read that it can't be tested like a normal diode.

My initial thought was do a cap kit, replace the transistors, clean and regrease the HV diode, and see what happens from there.

Thanks,
Theron

I always replace the filter cap while I'm in there. They're pretty cheap and you've already got it torn apart.

Not sure if you can test the diode. I think if it looks good, you could at least try cleaning it and the holders for it and reinstall to test.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I did a cap kit, replaced the filter caps, and replaced the transistors on the frame. I also cleaned and reinstalled the HV diode.

I plugged in the monitor, and didn't see any glow in the neck. The red LED is lit (spot killer?). The fuses are good. The game will play blind at this point. The previous owner said it needed a HV diode, because he shorted the tube to the frame without 1M resistor. The HV diode looked good, but had no way of testing it. I tried testing on ohm settings and got OL both ways.

Does a HV diode only cause blooming or would it cause a monitor not to work?

Any advice on the next step?

Thanks again,
Theron
 
I'd wait for one of the vector gurus to chime in, but for the spot killer to be on, the monitor should be on. The LED is the spot killer, that pretty much "kills" the tube to prevent burn in... does it when the chassis isn't seeing a signal. Even if the HVDiode was open, I'd imagine you wouldn't get the spot killer and you'd have neck glow. If the diode was bad, basically the monitor would be acting more or less normal (deflection chatter, neck glow, spot killer would be off... but you just wouldn't see anything on the screen, and you wouldn't get that static buildup you normally get when I monitor turns on)

So, either the game isn't sending out a good signal, or the chassis just isn't seeing it. Check D608, D708, and Q607 and Q706.

Give http://www.docstoc.com/docs/2240150/Black-and-White-Vector-Monitor-FAQ-and-Guide a good read, check out the symtoms section and see if anything they have match up to what you're seeing.
 
Thanks for all the advice. I did a cap kit, replaced the filter caps, and replaced the transistors on the frame. I also cleaned and reinstalled the HV diode.

I plugged in the monitor, and didn't see any glow in the neck. The red LED is lit (spot killer?). The fuses are good. The game will play blind at this point. The previous owner said it needed a HV diode, because he shorted the tube to the frame without 1M resistor. The HV diode looked good, but had no way of testing it. I tried testing on ohm settings and got OL both ways.

Does a HV diode only cause blooming or would it cause a monitor not to work?

Any advice on the next step?

Thanks again,
Theron

Neck glow (heater voltage) comes directly from the power brick. Check continuity in the wire from the brick, also check fuses on the brick.
 
bumping up this old topic to ask if anyone can say one way or the other whether it is possible to test the HV diode? someone must have figured this out by now.
 
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