How would you fix this lock bar damage?

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If I'm going to attempt to stencil and restore my poor beat up Ms Pac-Man this Spring/Summer, I'm going to have to deal with this nasty damage that was probably caused by someone ripping off a lock bar. I just thought I'd get some tips or opinions on this. The damage is unfortunately bad enough that it extends right up to the coin door opening (splintered pretty good on the back side). Initially I thought maybe I could attempt to fill with bondo, but I'm thinking that won't work so well. I talked to a buddy about this and we both thought that cutting the area clean and putting in a patch might be the best option. Could I safely use liquid nails to hold the patch and then bondo the area smooth? I did something very similar on a control panel, but I did have all 4 sides for the patch to adhere to and this time I'll only have 3 since the damage goes right to the edge. I don't own a biscuit joiner and I'm not sure I'd even have access to one or the skill and knowledge to use it. If anyone has any other thoughts I'd love to hear them. Help give me that final push to where I will get the stencils and go for it. :D


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if it was me i would just bondo it.
but on the inside leve it bulky for retention purposes..
just slightly bulky.
it will bond well from the front with the way it loks in the pic.
sand very smooth and the rest you know what to do.

the only other option, which i would not do, is to remove the whole front panel and make a new one.

frankie
 
if it was me i would just bondo it.
but on the inside leve it bulky for retention purposes..
just slightly bulky.
it will bond well from the front with the way it loks in the pic.
sand very smooth and the rest you know what to do.

the only other option, which i would not do, is to remove the whole front panel and make a new one.

frankie
Yeah I'm definitely trying to avoid having to removing the front panel. I actually do need to remove the bottom and cut a new one since it's not in the best shape.
 
Since you're going to repaint the cabinet AND you mention you want to replace the bottom, you might as well cut the front out and replace it as well. The biggest issue with that is that the cabinet isn't just butt joints.

I found a Ms Pac that's all original, still has backdoor with the manual package stapled inside, BUT......it has damage similar to what you show there. Big nasty hasp holes, but not all torn up like yours. I can probably get away with wood plugs and bondo, but even though people here usually don't have a problem with bondo, I'd wouldn't use it for holes that big. Good chance it will crack or shrink. It's great for small stuff, but not really intended for filling larger voids, same as on cars.. you don't want a fender with 1/2" bondo in it really.
 
Do you own or have access to a router? If so, I would cut a big piece out of the front, probably following the pink stripe down, and across the area of Ms. Pac's eyes. Then use the router with a lap bit to make a "step" in the area that you just opened up. Cut a new piece of plywood to fit this area, also using the router to make a lap joint. Cut out a new hole for the coin door, glue the piece in, and bondo over the joint. Hope this makes sense... if not I'll try to draw a picture. Actually, you could do this same thing, but instead of using the router to make a lap joint, use strips of 1x4 on the inside of the cab to straddle the joint, then you could use glue and screws from the inside.
 
I've never used it on a 'wood' repair, but have used it on other applications, and it worked great. Just a thought, but why not use the fiberglass mesh 'drywall repair' tape that's sold in 3" wide ribbons at Wal-Mart as an added source of strength?

Obviously, you wouldn't want to put it on top of the patch, but say you chip away all the loose portions from the holes, start your patch with some wood putty, then lay in strips of said tape between thin coatings of your patching material?

I've done the same thing with repairing 30-40 year old plastic pieces (not with wood putty, of course,) and the finished product is stronger than any piece originally manufactured.

Just a thought..?
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions so far.

@Joeycuda: That was one of my questions/concerns was how the cabinet was originally put together. I thought it was just butt joints with those wood blocks, but apparently there is more to it. That's honestly fairly intimidating as I don't have a lot of experience or skill in wood working.

Can anyone shed a bit more light on how these cabs are held together?
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions so far.

@Joeycuda: That was one of my questions/concerns was how the cabinet was originally put together. I thought it was just butt joints with those wood blocks, but apparently there is more to it. That's honestly fairly intimidating as I don't have a lot of experience or skill in wood working.

Can anyone shed a bit more light on how these cabs are held together?

I believe the joints are rabbet and dado joints. If that's all you had to deal with in pulling this apart, it wouldn't be bad, but there are likely also staples.
 
there is not very much stress on that area, Bondo will be fine.

as for the bottom panel just cut it in half and use a hammer to knock it out.

you dont have to cut it exactly all the way in half but pretty darn close.
this is wahat i did to my star wars that needed the bottom replaced.

just take your time with the hammer, patience is the key.
 
Do you own or have access to a router? If so, I would cut a big piece out of the front, probably following the pink stripe down, and across the area of Ms. Pac's eyes. Then use the router with a lap bit to make a "step" in the area that you just opened up. Cut a new piece of plywood to fit this area, also using the router to make a lap joint. Cut out a new hole for the coin door, glue the piece in, and bondo over the joint. Hope this makes sense... if not I'll try to draw a picture. Actually, you could do this same thing, but instead of using the router to make a lap joint, use strips of 1x4 on the inside of the cab to straddle the joint, then you could use glue and screws from the inside.

This is your best solution.
 
Be careful!!!! I wouldn't try and pry the sides to get the whole panel out. They are thoroughly glued and nailed to the floor as well as the panel you are trying to remove.

If you must remove it, cut it lengthwise down the front and pull it out in two pieces. Otherwise your going to end up with some incidental damage to the sides.

I would glue or staple a piece of 1/4" ply or luan on the inside, then fill it with bondo... if you are concerned about cracking...build it in layers putting some fiberglass mesh in each layer to give it some reinforcement. I don't think you will have an issue with bondo here... its in a pretty safe spot.
 
Thanks again everyone for the input. After thinking about it I can visualize how DP Louie's suggestion would work. It doesn't seem horribly hard and I do have a router already (only used once since getting it for Christmas a few years ago :eek:). I like the fact that it seems more like a clean repair as opposed to leaving a piece of wood attached to the inside for bondo. However the bondo and fiberglass mesh option does seem like the less risky option in terms of me making any mistakes and screwing the cabinet up royally.
 
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if you were to use the plywood on the back and put something the bondo wouldnt stick to on the plywood only (vaseline?) could you remove the plywood later? I heard its a painters trick for leaving areas unpainted while spraying to cover the undesired area with vaseline. Just wondering if it would work in this situation, since I have a similar one.
 
if you were to use the plywood on the back and put something the bondo wouldnt stick to on the plywood only (vaseline?) could you remove the plywood later? I heard its a painters trick for leaving areas unpainted while spraying to cover the undesired area with vaseline. Just wondering if it would work in this situation, since I have a similar one.

I wouldn't recommend this approach.
You would need to leave the backing in place for a repair that big.
If not then the first time the repair gets hit that bondo will pop out real quick.
If it was me I would use DP Louie's recommendation.
 
I picked up a cab that had a big hole cut in the front for a bill acceptor or something. I cut a piece of 1/2" plywood in the shape of the hole, used some small nails to hold it in place, then bondo, sanding, and eventually primer. I though I had a finished photo of the primer on, or a photo with the wood inserted, but can't find it now.

When I was done, you couldn't tell it had ever had a hole unless you looked on the inside. You couldn't even feel a difference running your fingers over it.

Here are some "in progress" pics...

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I wouldn't recommend this approach.
You would need to leave the backing in place for a repair that big.
If not then the first time the repair gets hit that bondo will pop out real quick.
If it was me I would use DP Louie's recommendation.

I agree, and keep in mind, wood does move some. Plywood is dimensionally stable for the most part, but I would avoid Bondo for a large area. If you can stitch in a piece of plywood as a patch, orient the plys the same way, if possible. That's probably getting too careful though.
 
I hope you re-carved the lower part of that serial number.

I have the number from the backside, and will most likely do so. it's still primer now. haven't done any paint yet. If I could find a good stamp or wood burner with that font, I'd do that. Sucks that they cut right through it.

I've also considered just not putting it back there, since it's on the back, too. This will be a game for ME, not for resale...
 
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