How to test components of a power supply

kmssd

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I'm trying to fix my power supply and need to check some items in it, but I'm not sure how. I really only have a multimeter to test with, so this probably limits me down. Anyway I need to test a 100mH 5A SF Coil, 3D-1001 Hybrid IC, 2SC2535 Silicon NPN Transistor and a 3D-0097 EI-35 Type Oscillstor Trans. Any ideas how I could test them?
 
I bet Ken Layton or Modessitt could help. You might try PMing them and ask them to help. Even better if they do it in this thread so the rest of us can learn.
 
I'm trying to fix my power supply and need to check some items in it, but I'm not sure how. I really only have a multimeter to test with, so this probably limits me down. Anyway I need to test a 100mH 5A SF Coil, 3D-1001 Hybrid IC, 2SC2535 Silicon NPN Transistor and a 3D-0097 EI-35 Type Oscillstor Trans. Any ideas how I could test them?

You really need tools like and Oscope with a differential probe, Sencore LC102 is good at checking caps, coils, flybacks, transformers. BK520B for checking Transistors, Diodes. Curve Tracer for checking HV diodes, Zener Diodes, SCR's
Otherwise it's a case of shotgunning parts. Starting with the most common stuff to go wrong, like Caps, Diodes, PWM, SCR's Transistors.

100mH 5A SF Coil
This will check as basically a short. They rarely go bad, so unless it's burned up it should be good.

3D-1001 Hybrid IC
That may be a tough one, are replacements even available?

2SC2535 Silicon NPN Transistor
This explains it better than I could.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_4/3.html

3D-0097 EI-35
O scope I assume would be the best way.

Looking at the parts you've listed, I'm assuming this is a Nitendo PS?

On Switch mode supplies, Electrolytic caps are the #1 problems.
They can cause things like, not starting, not holding up under load, to much AC ripple on the DC out.
 
You really need tools like and Oscope with a differential probe, Sencore LC102 is good at checking caps, coils, flybacks, transformers. BK520B for checking Transistors, Diodes. Curve Tracer for checking HV diodes, Zener Diodes, SCR's
Otherwise it's a case of shotgunning parts. Starting with the most common stuff to go wrong, like Caps, Diodes, PWM, SCR's Transistors.

100mH 5A SF Coil
This will check as basically a short. They rarely go bad, so unless it's burned up it should be good.

3D-1001 Hybrid IC
That may be a tough one, are replacements even available?

2SC2535 Silicon NPN Transistor
This explains it better than I could.
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_4/3.html

3D-0097 EI-35
O scope I assume would be the best way.

Looking at the parts you've listed, I'm assuming this is a Nitendo PS?

On Switch mode supplies, Electrolytic caps are the #1 problems.
They can cause things like, not starting, not holding up under load, to much AC ripple on the DC out.

Thanks for the info, I'll see what I can do with what I got.
 
You didn't mention the power supply brand and model.

In general, most switching regulator power supplies just need electrolytic caps. Sometimes a transistor or two or a diode may go bad (usually shorted).
 
You didn't mention the power supply brand and model.

In general, most switching regulator power supplies just need electrolytic caps. Sometimes a transistor or two or a diode may go bad (usually shorted).

Your right, stupid me wrote it in the other thread I made, but not this one. Anyway, this is for a Nintendo PP-7B.
 
I've got a Mouser list, but only for the Al. Electrolytic capacitors. I'm guessing the others don't go bad quite as often since I didn't find them listed in the Cap Kits I found in other posts.
 
That should fix it. These power supplies are such a pain in the ass to take apart, that most people never even open them up to look at things, let alone replace any electrolytic capacitors. The compact design really bakes the small electrolytic capacitors.

In general, I have found that 99.9% of the time, simply replacing ALL of the electrolytic capacitors brings these power supplies back to life.

Just be careful that you don't get any of that white silicone heat sink grease on your clothes as it will ruin clothing. Nintendo globbed about a whole can of that stuff in there and it can get really messy.
 
I already had it apart looking around. I was taking resistors out that didn't get a good reading within the 5% tolerance. I've seen that white grease, so I just grab a work shirt. Thanks for tips on this.
 
Well recapping it didn't fix the problem and now it seems any further testing is out of my capabilities as far as meter/equipment. I did meter one of the transformers on the heatsink board under power, but it didn't have 5+ like the wire label said.
 
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