I have seen information online on how to test a transistor with 3 legs(Base,Emitter,Collector) but not sure how I am suppose to test this as it has more legs.
Anybody know how to test this?
Check to see if the board requires -5v for the audio op-amps. If it does and the -5v isn't there then you'll have audio issues.
Download the data sheet and use a multimeter to see if there is power on the proper pin. Next use an oscilloscope to check the inputs for a signal. If there is power and signal in, but no signal out then check to see if there's a mute pin on the IC. If so, check to see if it's active and the output is muted. If it's not, replace the IC.
If there's audio in and audio out, check for bad DC blocking caps on the output of the amp IC. These block the DC coming off the output of the IC and allow only the AC component of the audio out.
If there's no audio in, check the outputs of the digitial audio section of the board. If there's audio there then work backwards in the circuit from the audio amplifier until you find where the audio is lost. Physical damage to caps, resistors, and volume pots are good indicators of where to check for lost audio. Beyond that, check for bad op-amps.
I have seen information online on how to test a transistor with 3 legs(Base,Emitter,Collector) but not sure how I am suppose to test this as it has more legs.
Anybody know how to test this?
I test them by using my Multimeter. I test Pin 5 to make sure there is power to it, then I test pin 1 to see if I get a Hum/Buzz. If I don't, chances are it's bad or the speaker is.
If you need a replacement Amp, the TDA2003 is a drop in replacement for them.
Just order the top one, they have plenty in stock and it will work. The differences between the 511-E-TDA2003V and the 511-TDA2003V is that the first one is RoHS compliant, which usually means lead free. The last part looks like they don't have stock on them anyway.
The 'V' part has extended temperature range down to -40. Unless you're gaming in Alaska you should be ok with the 'H' part. Any of those will work fine though.
The 'V' part has extended temperature range down to -40. Unless you're gaming in Alaska you should be ok with the 'H' part. Any of those will work fine though.
Nope... the "V" suffix is for a part with preformed legs intended for 'V'ertical mounting. The "H" suffix is for a part with preformed legs intended for 'H'orizontal mounting.
If you have a vertical heatsink (all that I have seen) then you want a "V" part.
To add to previous posts - the "E" prefix is for a RoHS compliant part. The non-E prefixed parts are now NRND which means they will soon be obsolete. The "E" prefix is new - I first saw it about two months ago. So far, only the V parts are RoHS... Either the H parts will be converted soon or they will be discontinued.