How to test a Peter Chou power supply out of a game?

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How to test a Peter Chou power supply out of a game?

Can someone tell me how to check a Peter Chou PS that has been removed from a game? It is for a NeoGeo 64 Extreme Racing game if that helps any.


Thanks
 
You will have to put a load on it and check the voltages.....

I made a setup that powers some bad hard drives... They work just have bad sectors....

Without a load the PS should shut itself off....

Look for bad caps as well....
 
for a load automotive light bulbs have worked for me.. an 1156 with wires soldered on for the +5, another for the +12.

tada instant ps loader... and readily available/cheap
 
Peter Chou makes dozens of different power supplies. Some do not need a load connected and some do.

The typical screw terminal models do not need a load.

The various computer style ones absolutely do need a load connected.
 
Peter Chou makes dozens of different power supplies. Some do not need a load connected and some do.

The typical screw terminal models do not need a load.

The various computer style ones absolutely do need a load connected.

interesting about the Peter Chous.

I sourced a lamp housing out of a redemption pushbutton and connected wires to devise a load tool to hook up to power supplies.

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the molex ends are used for plugging into a box style power supply. to go to screw terminals I use alligator clips. my tool uses a #555 bulb.
 

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I am trying to do the same here with a new power supply I acquired. it says minimum 1amp load must be applied to +5 to test power supply. the #555 bulb is only 1/4 amp. I have some larger resistors 1.8k or 4.5k laying around but not sure of their wattage.

Any thoughts / ideas?
 
I am trying to do the same here with a new power supply I acquired. it says minimum 1amp load must be applied to +5 to test power supply. the #555 bulb is only 1/4 amp. I have some larger resistors 1.8k or 4.5k laying around but not sure of their wattage.

Any thoughts / ideas?

To pull 1A @ 5VDC would take a resistive load of R=V/I= 5/1 = 5 ohms. Any more than that, and it pulls less current (I=V/R). Your 1k+ resistors would only pull a couple or few milliamps.

It would need to be rated for at least P =I*V = 1*5 = 5W.

Just hook up 4 #555 bulbs in parallel.
 
To pull 1A @ 5VDC would take a resistive load of R=V/I= 5/1 = 5 ohms. Any more than that, and it pulls less current (I=V/R). Your 1k+ resistors would only pull a couple or few milliamps.

It would need to be rated for at least P =I*V = 1*5 = 5W.

Just hook up 4 #555 bulbs in parallel.

Thanks Darren. I found a used 4 ohm resistor and put that in line with the #555 bulb. I couldn't tell the difference in measuring with load or w/o. Anyway thanks for the insight.
 
Thanks Darren. I found a used 4 ohm resistor and put that in line with the #555 bulb. I couldn't tell the difference in measuring with load or w/o. Anyway thanks for the insight.

I did this test on both a new power pro AT ps and the peter chou up-150 and finally saw the difference in voltage measurement but on the +12/-12 line.

When adding the 1.5 amp load to +5v, my measurement of +5 (stays at 5.15) however the +12v is reading @ 11.5. I remove the 1.5amp load and the +12v goes down to 10v.

Odd thing is the new power pro +12 voltage is about .5v lower than older peter chou at same +5v setting.

Just figured I would update so people don't think they have +12v problem when testing these just because they didn't apply a load to the +5.
 
I did this test on both a new power pro AT ps and the peter chou up-150 and finally saw the difference in voltage measurement but on the +12/-12 line.

When adding the 1.5 amp load to +5v, my measurement of +5 (stays at 5.15) however the +12v is reading @ 11.5. I remove the 1.5amp load and the +12v goes down to 10v.

Odd thing is the new power pro +12 voltage is about .5v lower than older peter chou at same +5v setting.

Just figured I would update so people don't think they have +12v problem when testing these just because they didn't apply a load to the +5.

the concept behind a "switching" power supply is that it generates the other voltages from the 5 volt load. so without a proper load it'll read incorrectly as you've discovered.

I don't really concern myself with +12 or -5 unless there's some kind of issue with the sound hardware. +12 has a wider tolerance than +5, it's not wildly uncommon to find this in the 11-14V range. for the record, I've never seen a situation where the voltage on the +12 line was so low that the amplifier wouldn't power up.

the above noted #555 lamp that I hook up is only really intended to pull the +5 within a safe operating range (after wiping the +5 adjustment), I always fine tune the voltage adjustment according to what I pull at game logic regardless of what I came up with having the lamp attached. what people generally neglect is that every cabinet is different and the wiring or integrity of header pins or edge connectors will dictate how much voltage flows through to the hardware.

that was the intention of the PSU guide in my signature.
 
the concept behind a "switching" power supply is that it generates the other voltages from the 5 volt load. so without a proper load it'll read incorrectly as you've discovered.

I don't really concern myself with +12 or -5 unless there's some kind of issue with the sound hardware. +12 has a wider tolerance than +5, it's not wildly uncommon to find this in the 11-14V range. for the record, I've never seen a situation where the voltage on the +12 line was so low that the amplifier wouldn't power up.

the above noted #555 lamp that I hook up is only really intended to pull the +5 within a safe operating range (after wiping the +5 adjustment), I always fine tune the voltage adjustment according to what I pull at game logic regardless of what I came up with having the lamp attached. what people generally neglect is that every cabinet is different and the wiring or integrity of header pins or edge connectors will dictate how much voltage flows through to the hardware.

that was the intention of the PSU guide in my signature.

Thanks for pointing out your sig and guide.... totally missed that. I always check at the chip when adjusting 5v in the cab but all your points are valid.

In my case, the +12 is also responsible for motor spinning disks in hard drive and since my drive wasn't spinning, I measured 12+; it read 10v which led me down the wrong path.

FWIW, the spec for NFL blitz says range limit of 4.9 - 5.1 for digital ckt and 11.5 - 12.5 for audio&DBV. Not much tolerance. However, I learned some new stuff so all is not lost. Maybe it will help others like the other posts here helped me.

Thanks again
 
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