How to Setup a VGA to CGA Video Converter PCB for MAME

nesjess

Well-known member

Donor 2011
Joined
Feb 4, 2009
Messages
9,584
Reaction score
530
Location
Castro Valley, California
How to Setup a VGA to CGA Video Converter PCB for MAME

So I'm installing MAME (Hyperspin) in my SFII (Dynamo HS-1) cabinet as an option without messing with the original cabinet setup. I'll be setting it up with a second set of parts and wiring for MAME.

I wanted it to make it straight plug and play utilizing the existing JAMMA wiring and edge connector. So, with the help of Prairied1ll0's expertise, I'll be wiring all of the MAME components to a JAMMA fingerboard so I can simply plug the JAMMA edge connector to it. So it's sort of an Arcade PC to JAMMA adapter. In other words, my MAME setup will act as a "JAMMA PCB."

Instead of using Ultimarc parts, I went the bargain route and will be using the following parts from our very own armi0024 of Paradise Arcade Shop (Bryan is a cool guy, ships super fast, and includes a Hawaiian treat of some sort. Highly recommended seller):

Video: VGA to CGA Converter PCB ($39)
Controls: USB to Arcade Controls Interface ($25)
Audio: Audio amp built from parts


Unfortunately, the video converter doesn't come with instructions (it's an HK product so I'm guessing even if it did, it would be in Cantonese). I know there's info on it on BYOAC, but I couldn't really find any clear steps and that forum is hard to navigate. Though it's not rocket science and wasn't too hard to figure out, but for the noob who doesn't want to tinker around, here's how I got it to work.

1. The RGB wiring that comes with the converter doesn't have the right connector for my WG 19K7000, but I won't be needing it since I'm soldering the wires directly to a JAMMA fingerboard. So I just cut off the connector.

2. The wires are somewhat color coded so you can figure out which JAMMA pin it will correspond to based on how your cabinet is setup. So for me, I'm following the JAMMA wiring for SFII. If wired correctly, you should get a blank screen that says "No Signal" and the LED on the converter should light up red.


RGB Wiring:
Red = Video Red
Green = Video Green
Blue = Video Blue
White = Video Sync
Black = Ground

5V Wiring:
Red = 5V
Black = Video Ground

3. There are 4 buttons on the video converter PCB to navigate the menu. The default is in Cantonese. To set it to English, select the second selection and choose "English." To exit out if it's in Cantonese or if you need to go back to a previous menu, the last selection in each menu is "Exit."

4. It will read "No Signal" until you hook up your PC VGA cable and set it to CRT Mode. I'm using Hyperspin, so I make sure to set the resolution to 800X600 in HS settings as well as my PC settings. Then, just adjust your arcade monitor accordingly.

So there you have it. A quick guide on how to hook up the VGA to CGA video converter.

The USB to Arcade controls interface is pretty awesome too. It wires directly to your arcade controls and is straight plug and play via USB interface. Once you plug it into your PC, it acts as two separate USB joystick controllers. However, I'll also be wiring it to the JAMMA fingerboard (as well as a plug and play connector to the CPS1 kick harness already in the cabinet) to be able to just plug and play my MAME setup to the JAMMA edge connector.






VGA to CGA Converter:
2011013112310525.jpg


Hyperspin Frontend:
201102020036382.jpg


SFIII: 3rd Strike running:
20110202003622633.jpg


USB to Arcade controls wiring and interface:
20110131123139205.jpg
 
Last edited:
Nice. I think I'm going to have to pick one of those USB controller pieces up... Seems like a nice alternative to the ultimarc expensive iPac.
 
Thanks for the info. For lack of a JROK board, I'm going to be replacing the crappy MAME setup in my poor Defender with a "good" MAME setup.

The first item on the list is to replace the computer crt (that sticks out the back of the cabinet about 4 inches) with a proper arcade monitor.

Now that you've got yours working, how do you like the picture quality?

-Jim
 
Thanks for the info. For lack of a JROK board, I'm going to be replacing the crappy MAME setup in my poor Defender with a "good" MAME setup.

The first item on the list is to replace the computer crt (that sticks out the back of the cabinet about 4 inches) with a proper arcade monitor.

Now that you've got yours working, how do you like the picture quality?

-Jim

holy shit you're a genius. lol

I might MAME my Defender then. I really don't want to drop anymore money in it.
 
holy shit you're a genius. lol

I might MAME my Defender then. I really don't want to drop anymore money in it.

Mind you, that's how I received the poor thing. Wood-grain vinyl sides, no back door, and monitor sticking out the back.

And since you can never post a picture like this too many times:
user43571pic34961285396.jpg


When I'm done with it, it will be a Defender/Multi-Williams (but with MAME, since I can't find a MW board).

Hence, I want to know how the quality of the video converter is.

-Jim
 
The video quality is a lot better than I expected to be honest. And you can't argue with $39. It just takes a few minutes to configure your PC resolution and adjust your arcade monitor, which I didn't do completely as you can see the screen is too bright and the contrast is a bit off. After that, it looks as if you have an actual game running in the cab (except vertical games of course, they shrink to fit the screen). I shot a short video explaining how it works. See original post.
 
Last edited:
FWIW, I have a 19" shelfmount VisionPro U3000 clone (can never remember the model #) that's been sitting on a shelf since 2008 (some knucklefuck dropped THAT in our Pin2000) and since the Sampo monitor that's in the Defender now has a scratched tube.. and well, I have a ArcadeVGA, I reckon that'll be a drop-swap for the ages. :p

I cannibalized the PS/2 controller out of my HotRod SE (turned that into my Supergun rig... I'll have to show that in the project section sometime) so I pretty much have everything I need already.

my Defender already has a chopped up harness at the coin door, and the original PS board is gone (replaced by a switcher with a very cleverly made adapter).
 
Back
Top Bottom