How to placing rubber wedges definetely?

[nonosto]

Hello

I almost there about my screen calibration. I found the good position about yoke deflection, but I dont know how placinf definetely rubber wedges for never move. How to please?

THX

 

[pcjohn]

I use RTC silicone.

 

[Alup]

I use this,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFRN1K8

 

[Raxnahali]

I've used hot glue sticks before and they seem to hold fine.

 

[M K L]

I use this,

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFRN1K8

That's for attaching the tab of the wedge to the tube but in most cases a sealant like silicone or more rarely hot glue is added where the yoke sits on the wedge. When this is done the yoke needs to sit on temporary wedges that are removed after the sealant has cured.

 

[Alup]

That's for attaching the tab of the wedge to the tube but in most cases a sealant like silicone or more rarely hot glue is added where the yoke sits on the wedge. When this is done the yoke needs to sit on temporary wedges that are removed after the sealant has cured.

View attachment 463532

Just curious? Do you think I am new to this or something? I mean I have been repairing monitors for about 16 years now and was repairing tvs for 10 years before that....
I noticed you have been "Correcting" everything I post. I would not post it if I did not know it works.

As for the tape... when you buy wedges new, they come with ONLY adhesive backing on them. I still have some stuck to tubes from the 50's with just that adhesive. Trust me when I say this. It works. Does it dry out eventually? Sure, but it takes A REALLY LONG TIME! Its not like you move the yoke around alot either, they are called wedges because you are suppose to "WEDGE" them in. All they need is adhesive on the tab. they use mechanical pressure from the yoke to hold in place. Not all wedges are the same either, some have just an adhesive tab, while others have a full flat bottom with the adhesive running all the way down them.

You dont even really need any kind of adhesive/glue/silicone at all if you did it right. The reason for adhesive at all is just mainly to prevent them from shifting/moving during shipping. If you want you can just run a piece of tape over the wedge tab and that works just as well. I have new tubes straight from the manufacture that do this.

As for the silicone, you can straight up JUST use that instead of wedges. Although I do not recommend this because if your tube dies and you do indeed need to remove the yoke its a massive pain to get it back off.

This is all the information you need. See this thread from this forums... https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/what-kind-of-tape-on-yoke-wedges-etc.444873/

 

[M K L]

when you buy wedges new, they come with ONLY adhesive backing on them.

Isn't that obvious? What were they supposed to come with? A blob of silicone already on them? More seriously, there are wedges designed to have holes where the silicone can flow through to the glass underneath:

I still have some stuck to tubes from the 50's with just that adhesive. Trust me when I say this. It works. Does it dry out eventually? Sure, but it takes A REALLY LONG TIME!

I trust you but it's not always true. In fact it's not rare to see wedges where the adhesive tabs have come off which explains why they would also put a piece of tape on them at times. And this happens on newer tubes too: check out this NOS Thomson CRT made in 2005 (thank God for that glue!):

All they need is adhesive on the tab. they use mechanical pressure from the yoke to hold in place. Not all wedges are the same either, some have just an adhesive tab, while others have a full flat bottom with the adhesive running all the way down them.

I agree that not all wedges are the same as I've shown above.

You dont even really need any kind of adhesive/glue/silicone at all if you did it right. The reason for adhesive at all is just mainly to prevent them from shifting/moving during shipping.

Yes and monitors (and cabs containing monitors) are shifted and shipped throughout their lives.

As for the silicone, you can straight up JUST use that instead of wedges. Although I do not recommend this because if your tube dies and you do indeed need to remove the yoke its a massive pain to get it back off.

This is typically done by Philips (in Europe at least) and their yokes come off very easily. Silicone is not epoxy after all.



Other designs include built-in screw spacers that are hollow: the glue is poured through the top and comes off from the bottom securing the yoke to the funnel. This design is popular in the US since Thomson expanded their business over there too:

This is all the information you need.

Your information was incomplete to say the least which is the only reason why I posted here (and no, I'm not stalking you). The OP was clearly clueless about this matter and needed to know the proper techniques used in the CRT industry not the makeshift ones of videogamers. After having a broader view he will decide himself how he's going to do it.

 

[Alup]

While some of that may be true in your part of the world. Its not in the US.






I did not touch the yoke or wedges on any of these, as you can see some use silicone while others use just tape and others use a combination of the 2. These are wedges not rocket science.

And no shit my info was incomplete my first post on this thread was essentially just a link however you managed to single me out to "prove" yourself.

Ill tell you what, next time i give a personal preference about something how about you just ignore it. Or instead of going after me you just post your preference without the condescension.

If you need more proof let me know i have 83 other tubes i can take pictures of. All of which are untouched from the factory wedges/yokes.