how to install full side art?

tinsley

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I have a NBA Jam cab I want to add side art to (has been stripped in the past), but I have never done one. The NBA Jam side art is a full sheet which is larger then the actual sides. So, once I get the side art on there, what is the best method to cut it without screwing it all up? I plan on using the water/soap in spray bottle method to lay it and keep bubbles out, but have no clue how to cut it without totally f'ing it up...
 
Many would agree with me in saying don't use water/soap. Can weaken the adhesive. Also, consider what happens when moisture gets to particleboard.
 
The best way I found to trim full side art is to use a heat gun to relax the art work around the corners of the cab, and them trim it at the t-molding channels, it gives you a nice clean eadge. You can watch the vinyl instruction video at this Old Game it will show you what I'm talking about.

Remember to ensure that all the imperfections on the cab have been fixed.

Thanks
Greg
 
Hire a sign maker to apply it for you. With the amount of time it's probably going to take you could just work and earn the money back anyway :)
 
The best way I found to trim full side art is to use a heat gun to relax the art work around the corners of the cab, and them trim it at the t-molding channels, it gives you a nice clean eadge. You can watch the vinyl instruction video at this Old Game it will show you what I'm talking about.

Remember to ensure that all the imperfections on the cab have been fixed.

Thanks
Greg

do you have a link to that video?
 
Hire a sign maker to apply it for you. With the amount of time it's probably going to take you could just work and earn the money back anyway :)

Ha, I'm in the military, so I doubt I could earn that money quickly... But, I'd like to do it myself unless it is that hard...
 
Ha, I'm in the military, so I doubt I could earn that money quickly... But, I'd like to do it myself unless it is that hard...

It's doable, you're just going to have to go very slowly. The largest side art I've applied is Mario Bros. and I found the experience less than enjoyable.

You could try that Rapid Tac stuff. Never used it myself, but next time I have side art I will probably give it a shot.
 
Helps if you have the right tools. A fiend of mine gave me a squeegee with a felt end on it. He is a sign maker and its what he uses. Really helps you get the bubbles out and apply pressure without scratching the art.

Start from one end and slide the squeegee back and fourth about an inch at a time. Just take your time and work the any air out as you go.
 
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I think there are some youtube videos of side art application....
Its not THAT tough, I tack it into place with the back still on, start at the top, pealing the backing off as I go. Using one of those sweegies to press it into place as I go......
 
Need Noice Moppet picture in this thread.

Now.



The best luck I've had is to remove just 1 or 2 inches of the peel-away from the skinniest part (the width, in this case) and line the art up, then make that 1-2" stick, and then it's like a long flap. Then SLOWLY peel/slide your hand back and forth (Front to back of the cab, if that makes sense) as you unpeel a little at a time...

If that makes no sense at all, I'll have to draw a picture to explain, or something. But I put sideart on my Tempest, and was freaking out beforehand, and after doing the way I'm describing, it actually came out perfect...
 
The best luck I've had is to remove just 1 or 2 inches of the peel-away from the skinniest part (the width, in this case) and line the art up, then make that 1-2" stick, and then it's like a long flap. Then SLOWLY peel/slide your hand back and forth (Front to back of the cab, if that makes sense) as you unpeel a little at a time.....
Sketch it up Leonardo Davinci!!! :)

Actually that is EXACTLY what I was saying. I just use blue painters tape to "tack it" into place first....
Then I peel about an inch off the top and fold the backing over flush, and use the squeegie
to work my way down SLOWLY, take your time don't get in a rush....
I was scared as hell the first time I did this, but it worked out just fine.....
 
I've found it very helpful to shine a work light up from below so that you can see the profile/shadow of the cabinet under the art as you try to line it up (with the backing still on before taping it down). This was really handy on Ms Pacman and especially on Zoo Keeper, with the line that hugs the edge of the cabinet that had to be perfect.
 
Actually I received a very helpful way to apply full side art from JP1.
Him and a few other people here on the board have used this method with a lot of success.
You first apply the sideart without removing any of the backing.
Tape the artwork to exactly where you want it to go.
Remove the tape about halfway, literally about at the middle of the artwork.
Lift the untaped section of the artwork and gently lay it on the taped section.
Remove the backing from the layed over piece and apply the artwork from the middle up.
Once the upper portion is applied, do the same exact process to the bottom half.
This prevents the artwork from being slightly off so to speak, which isn't really a big deal at the beginning, you really don't see it, but by the time your at the bottom, well you know.
I'm planning on using this same method to apply my Gauntlet sideart and it looks to be fairly effective.
 
If you get sideart that doesn't have pre-masking tape on it, I use a soft wash cloth to lay my artwork down. I can apply pressure and lay it down nicely without having to worry about scratching my graphics. I've used my bare hands on one control panel overlay and I'll just say it's rough on your hands lol. The cloth works well. Your worst enemy is stretching the graphic in any way with a squeegee. I cut my my teeth on these working with commercial window clings that were typically 5' x 8' or so and you get a feel really quick for how to detect if the graphic is stretched or isn't laying down like it should.

Another tip would be to make sure that the graphic stays as flat with the surface as possible when laying it down and lay it down even not getting too far down on the left or the right.

Sorry if I've repeated what anyone else has said or if any of that didn't make sense. PM me if you want/need clarification.
 
The best way I found to trim full side art is to use a heat gun to relax the art work around the corners of the cab, and them trim it at the t-molding channels, it gives you a nice clean eadge. You can watch the vinyl instruction video at this Old Game it will show you what I'm talking about.

Remember to ensure that all the imperfections on the cab have been fixed.

Thanks
Greg

That would depend on the vinyl that it was printed on. Some vinyls are not made like that and you will ruin print. If you do it just be very careful and take your time. control tac vinyls are the best for stuff like this..

hope this helps
 
For this one...no. For my 720, I polyurethaned it all, but it had more body work than this one. My vinyl came off completely clean and I had to barely Bondo a corner or two, so the particleboard was just like it was before they covered it at the factory. Right now, I'm working on my ROTJ restore and will have to vinyl all of that. I'm going to polyurethane that one. I would highly recommend several coats of poly vs. primer. Primer seems thinner, and dustier and more difficult to sand. Poly is harder and I think nicer to sand in between coats. Just make sure every void is filled and everything is smooth because you will see imperfections. That being said, it's easier to notice on plain vinyl than it is on side art that has pictures, etc.
 
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