How to cut T-molding channels?

toolguy

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The time has come for me to build a machine. I've restored many pins, two arcades and since space is limited in my arcade and I cannot buy a NIB pin for $4000, I figured the next most satisfying thing would be to build my next machine. A Galaga Cabaret.

My biggest question is, how people cut T-molding channels when you don't have the proper cutter or saw?

I have a few saws, but the one I was thinking on using was a circular saw, blade depth set of course and a nice fence to keep it in the middle of the plywood. This is about the only saw I have that could so something like this...

What did any of you do to when you built, or fixed T-molding channels?
 
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The best way is a router with a slot cutter. I've done it with a small circular saw before, but not nearly the control of a router.
 
I remembered after I typed this, I have one of those Roto Zip tools, mines actually a craftsmans brand. It's like a mini router, so possibly if I can get a bit for it, use that? I suppose the issue with it would be can it achieve the depth, from its motors RPM. Possibly two passes would need to be made and two different depths.
 
I remembered after I typed this, I have one of those Roto Zip tools, mines actually a craftsmans brand. It's like a mini router, so possibly if I can get a bit for it, use that? I suppose the issue with it would be can it achieve the depth, from its motors RPM. Possibly two passes would need to be made and two different depths.

I would go with the roto-zip, assuming you can't buy/rent a real router, and assuming that you can get a proper bit for it. You may indeed need two passes, but that's not too big a deal. Make sure you have an appropriate attachment for keeping it from cutting too deep, and for maintaining it's position in the center of the wood.

If you can't find a slot-cutting bit for the roto-zip, you could try a thin bit on it, again with an attachment for controlling position, but just going straight into the wood. Again, you might want to make two passes.
 
Don't bother with the rotozip. I hate to be negative, but you'd probably regret the results, compared to even a cheap router. If you only see needing a router for a few things like this, get the cheapest Ryobi or Craftsman router.

T-molding dot com DOES sell the cutter and arbor, but here's where you can get it much cheaper, with free shipping. MLCS is a good site, ships super fast, and they're popular with the fine woodworkers. I have the 1/16" slot cutter and it's very nice.

They have a full selection of router bits, in case you want a flush trim or something.

Here's a link to the slot cutter
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_slot.html

$16, shipped in either 1/4 or 1/2" shank. With a router, IF the router has a 1/2" arbor, and I'm not sure if the cheaper routers usually do, always go with the 1/2" over the 1/4" when you can. If you're buying a bit at Lowes or somewhere, the 1/2" tends to be more costly. If you're ordering from MLCS or another online woodworking place, it usually costs the same. The bigger the shank, the beefier, less prone to vibration, etc..
 
thanks for that link joeycuda! This is what I was wondering about if I decide to completely rebuild the cabinet sides on my DK. Good stuff!
 
Ah, yes never even thought of renting a router! Possibly I can do that. Or borrow one from someone.

Lastly, go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap one.

Thanks for all the ideas everyone!
 
While the Whiteside brand bits are good stuff, and may be of slightly higher quality, $16 shipped vs $28 + shipping is a no-brainer.
 
I bought one at Harbor Frieght for $22 and the slot cutting bits, works perfect on 4 cabs......a cheap alternative
 
Harbor Freight is great for tools you'll rarely use. The slot cutting bits there are probably fine and perfect for this. I'd just be careful buying anything there that has a motor, keep the receipt and you'll be good. If you need a router to do a few things, then that's perfect!
 
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