How to: Crimp Trifurcon pins for Molex connectors

Very informative Dokert! This is the part I always hated, and when I eff up, I just blame the crimpers...:rolleyes:
 
Thanks for posting Dokert. I have the Waldom crimpers supplied by Bob Roberts and it has become a *very* useful tool in my arsenal. I'm going to pick up the Platinum Tools crimpers too because, like you said, it's a 2-step process with the Waldom.

Looks like Tequipment also has them:
http://www.tequipment.net/PlatinumTools16801.html
 
I'll second Dave's suggestion on the crimpers. He told me to get them when I was new to the hobby and they are great. I love crimping trifurcon pins because it's so easy and they always turn out great.

OTOH, I hate crimping quick disconnects and related connectors. Every single crimper I have bought for doing those (including one relatively expensive crimper that does the jacket and the wire crimps simultaneously) has done a poor job for me. At least half the time I end up with wire that will pull out if I give a decent tug. Is there any hope for me? What am I doing wrong, or what tool makes crimping these as easy as the tool Dave recommends for crimping trifurcons?
 
Not in the same price category... but has anybody here ever tried the Molex 2445A type crimpers with contact locators?
Once you try one of these - you'll never want to use anything else.

Ed
 
I hate crimping quick disconnects and related connectors. Every single crimper I have bought for doing those (including one relatively expensive crimper that does the jacket and the wire crimps simultaneously) has done a poor job for me. At least half the time I end up with wire that will pull out if I give a decent tug. Is there any hope for me? What am I doing wrong, or what tool makes crimping these as easy as the tool Dave recommends for crimping trifurcons?

Thank me later ... I just learned this nifty tip this past weekend.

Here is the only tool you will ever need for quick disconnects and butt splices!

VISE GRIPS!

Take your pair of vise grips and cinch them all the way down so that the top "gripper" and bottom "gripper" are just barely touching when you squeeze the vise grips together and they "lock out". Your vise grips are now ready for the task at hand ...

Now, insert wire into connector.

Take your open vise grips and put one metal "gripper" on either side of the connector. Clamp the vise grips together until they "lock out". In essence, you are using the vise grips to squeeze the connector together. If you feel like it didn't squeeze tight enough ... no problem ... just tighten down the vise grips a little more and give it another squeeze!

When you remove the vise grips, you will have a very firmly CRIMPED connector with the wire snugly affixed inside the connector. Also, the crimp looks a lot prettier than the mess that the Radio Shack crimpers generally leave behind. No tearing or mangling of the plastic ... just a nice flat crimp with what I like to call "grill marks" left behind.

And I dare you to try to pull the wire out of the connector ... if you cinched the vise grips down real tight you will NOT be able to pull the wire out.

Try this when you get a minute ... even if you don't have anything to crimp. It is an AMAZING technique.

Enjoy!

Steve
MM
 
I'll second Dave's suggestion on the crimpers. He told me to get them when I was new to the hobby and they are great. I love crimping trifurcon pins because it's so easy and they always turn out great.

OTOH, I hate crimping quick disconnects and related connectors. Every single crimper I have bought for doing those (including one relatively expensive crimper that does the jacket and the wire crimps simultaneously) has done a poor job for me. At least half the time I end up with wire that will pull out if I give a decent tug. Is there any hope for me? What am I doing wrong, or what tool makes crimping these as easy as the tool Dave recommends for crimping trifurcons?

We had two of the wratcheting type. One was from...who knows but looked to be of good quality, but depending on the thickness of plastic it never seemed to work that well half the time. Then I bought an identical one on sale at harbor freight, and for whatever reason, that actually works GREAT. Never had one bad crimp with it.

In a pinch, I use channel locks. Turn them in line with the wire, and use the very tips to bite the crimp where it counts. Squeeze the end of the handles for best leverage. Easy and works great also.
 
Not in the same price category... but has anybody here ever tried the Molex 2445A type crimpers with contact locators?
Once you try one of these - you'll never want to use anything else.

Ed

I use a Sargent Tools HTR 1031E with locator.
 
Not in the same price category... but has anybody here ever tried the Molex 2445A type crimpers with contact locators?
Once you try one of these - you'll never want to use anything else.

Ed

Ed - True

Shanman, I have a SMAC meeting to go to in a little while. When I get back, I will make a very short and down & dirty video for crimping quick disconnects. The perfect tool for crimping quick disconnects is the Waldom HT-1921 or any equivalent.
 
OTOH, I hate crimping quick disconnects and related connectors. Every single crimper I have bought for doing those (including one relatively expensive crimper that does the jacket and the wire crimps simultaneously) has done a poor job for me. At least half the time I end up with wire that will pull out if I give a decent tug. Is there any hope for me? What am I doing wrong, or what tool makes crimping these as easy as the tool Dave recommends for crimping trifurcons?

Here you go:
yhst-20483522292137_2135_14331407


:D

ken
 
I'll second Dave's suggestion on the crimpers. He told me to get them when I was new to the hobby and they are great. I love crimping trifurcon pins because it's so easy and they always turn out great.

OTOH, I hate crimping quick disconnects and related connectors. Every single crimper I have bought for doing those (including one relatively expensive crimper that does the jacket and the wire crimps simultaneously) has done a poor job for me. At least half the time I end up with wire that will pull out if I give a decent tug. Is there any hope for me? What am I doing wrong, or what tool makes crimping these as easy as the tool Dave recommends for crimping trifurcons?

I crimp butt connectors etc every single day as part of my job. The best tool I've found for it is available at most Home Depot and Lowes stores. I've been using them for well over 15 years. - Barry

http://www.channellock.com/Category.aspx?zcid=125
 
These are similar to the ones I've used for over 12 years. (except mine have three size selections) http://compare.ebay.com/like/120619...fdb9455&itemid=120619424822&ff4=263602_304692

Also, here is some more good info for the newb and anyone else interested direct from Molex:

http://www.molex.com/tnotes/crimp.html


The crimpers in the above link are actually for 0.062" contacts only. For the 0.156" contacts, you want 2445A's.
Many of these are marked with the Molex name on them -- but they are actually made by Rostra Tool Company which is part of Sargent Tools. For used ones, you can find them on ebay at ~$40 to $50 - make sure they are not broken and include the locators (lots of ebay crimpers are without the locators - e.g. the ones in the above ebay link). For new crimpers, don't go above $95.
Rostra still makes them, here's a cross reference for the more popular ones:
3132-CT = HTR-1031E = 0.093" contacts (include locator)
3133-CT = HTR-1719C = 0.062" contacts (include locator)
3135-CT = HTR-2262A = 0.1" contacts (no locator)
3136-CT = HTR-2445A = 0.156" contacts (include locator)

All of these crimp both wire and insulation at the same time. The crimpers with locators are absolutely wonderful to work with -- you push the button, drop in a pin and it's self aligning with the crimpers, no eyeballing it to make sure you have the contacts properly lined up with the crimper. Plus, the locator has a built in wirestop.

Ed
 
The crimpers in the above link are actually for 0.062" contacts only. For the 0.156" contacts, you want 2445A's.
Many of these are marked with the Molex name on them -- but they are actually made by Rostra Tool Company which is part of Sargent Tools. For used ones, you can find them on ebay at ~$40 to $50 - make sure they are not broken and include the locators (lots of ebay crimpers are without the locators - e.g. the ones in the above ebay link). For new crimpers, don't go above $95.
Rostra still makes them, here's a cross reference for the more popular ones:
3132-CT = HTR-1031E = 0.093" contacts (include locator)
3133-CT = HTR-1719C = 0.062" contacts (include locator)
3135-CT = HTR-2262A = 0.1" contacts (no locator)
3136-CT = HTR-2445A = 0.156" contacts (include locator)

All of these crimp both wire and insulation at the same time. The crimpers with locators are absolutely wonderful to work with -- you push the button, drop in a pin and it's self aligning with the crimpers, no eyeballing it to make sure you have the contacts properly lined up with the crimper. Plus, the locator has a built in wirestop.

Ed

I used to use these back in my Navy days, and they are a pure no-brainer especially when you are using the gold expensive pins.
 
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