How to converge a monitor

BTW - yoke adjustment is for tilt and/or static convergence. The magnetic rings are for dynamic convergence...

By "magnetic rings" are you referring to the 3 sets (2 sets for raster monitors) that you talk about in your original post or are these some other rings?

Right now I've got my K7000 almost perfect the way I want it - I've even added and adjusted some convergence strips for the corners. But the last little issue I want to correct is the horizontal red (and maybe just a LITTLE blue). It looks good over most of the monitor but towards the bottom of the crosshatch/grid pattern it's just a little bit off (horizontal lines are a little lower than the other colors.)

So would I be right in using the sets of rings (2 sets closest to neckboard) to correct this? Or should I be trying to tilt the yoke?



EDIT: Upon looking at the K7000 manual (http://www.wellsgardner.com/pdf/Service/K7000.pdf --page 6/7) I'm guessing that fixing my problem relates more to tilting the yoke (like it mentions on page 7 at the bottom in figure 9). Is this correct?
 
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it's about the same thing, but the one you linked is a little less clear on which rings to adjust for the vertical and horizontal alignment, and it's really only helpful if you have a crosshatch pattern...
 
Hey Modessitt,

I've noticed that your tutorial (which is fantastic by the way) only covers static convergence. I've noticed a few people asking about dynamic a convergence guide. Have you thought about adding one to this thread? I know dynamic is a bit more involved and (in my opinion) more complicated. Recently, I successfully converged a 25" K7000 and posted what I did in another thread. I used the K7000 manual as a framework for what I did.

Below is my post, explaining what I did...


"The manual for the K7000 describes it pretty well. Check out page 7.

http://www.wellsgardner.com/pdf/Service/K7000.pdf


I just finished completely converging a 25" K7191 and let me tell you that it takes a TON of patience to get the edge convergence (dynamic) set properly. It's MUCH more difficult than static convergence. You'll find that it's mostly trial and error -- there really isn't an exact science that works for every monitor. For myself, I loosened the yoke and played with it a bit, tilting and shifting it while looking at the crosshatch pattern on the monitor. Eventually (like myself) you should be able to find a "sweet spot" where 75-90% of the edges (and rest of the grid) line up properly. This is where you want to set your rubber wedges and mount them in place so the yoke rests there. Once that's done it's all fine tuning using the little strips to fix the corners and possibly some of the very fine edges. That's how it worked for me. After the static convergence (which I did first), I played with the yoke (with no wedges) until I found that 85% of the grid looked good. I set the wedges in to hold it there (and actually used a few extra from another tube, using five wedges total.) Then I made a bunch of homemade convergence strips and after a lot of patience, got the corners looking good. I also had to experiment a bit to get the very top edge to line up all the way, but got it after some time (I ended up constructing a convergence strip that used a piece of metal that was twice as long as the others, that for some reason did the trick.)

In the end, the convergence on this thing was about as good as it gets and I'm really happy with it. I'll admit that the area around the yoke looks terribly ugly as I used a ton of tape and adhesive to reinforce and hold all of the wedges and strips in place "


Feel free to chime in with anything you'd add or do differently. I just thought this might be a nice place to build on to your original guide to convergence.

-Jim
 
I watched a small video not long ago about making your own. I can't remember for the life of me where, but it was with rigid/sturdy paper(construction?), and the guy used the break-offs from a utility knife, and only one wrap of electrical tape and the metal tab and the paper strip and some two-sided tape to hold it onto the tube.

Dug up an old thread here for archival purposes. This is probably the site you saw.

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showt...-owners-make-your-own-edge-convergence-strips

Enjoy
 
There are 3 sets of rings, typically. The set closest to the front of the tube will be Set #1, the middle set will be Set #2, and the set closest to the neckboard will be Set #3. Start with a test grid if at all possible. Loosen the rings. Mark their starting positions with a sharpie (draw a line across them) so you can put them back to their starting point if you have problems.

First we will adjust the vertical lines. We will be using Set #2. Move the two tabs closer together or farther apart until the blue and red have merged perfectly to create purple. Then move both tabs together (keeping the same distance) until it lines up with green and creates white.

Now we will adjust the horizontal. We will be using Set #3. Move the two tabs closer together or farther apart until the blue and red have merged perfectly to create purple. Then move both tabs together (keeping the same distance) until it lines up with green and creates white.

since it got mentioned recently, I should point out that centering using Set #1 is for vector monitors only. On raster monitors, set #1 is for purity adjustments....

I am going to do a convergence (finally), dynamic as well as static and was reading the Amplifone manual and came across this description of what the ring set does (see attached). It appears to conflict with the above directions, specifically what the rings act on.

Are the above directions only for raster?
 

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BTW;
I just want to confirm that when starting this process, all the tabs on the rings should be at 12:00 (straight up)?
Thanks
Jeff
 
I am going to do a convergence (finally), dynamic as well as static and was reading the Amplifone manual and came across this description of what the ring set does (see attached). It appears to conflict with the above directions, specifically what the rings act on.

Are the above directions only for raster?

Yes. ...
 
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OK!
After several hours and several "do-overs" I finally got this 90% done.
The center is 100% perfect - WHITE!
The left and right sides are 98% perfect - WHITE!
But the top and bottom have a separation of the green and magenta. What's strange is that on the top of the CRT, the green is towards the top and the magenta below. Now on the bottom of the CRT, the green is down towards the bottom and the magenta is above it.
This is a problem as I cannot adjust the rings to "compress" the colors together..... am I explaining myself properly?
I attached a pic showing the issue.
I used the strips to get the colors aligned on the top sides and it worked well but the strips do not affect the magenta and green.... or should I say, I have not been able to place them to have the required effect.
I had some chevrons and I moved them about on the back of the CRT and they did not help.
BTW, this is a 25" CRT if that matters.
Any guidance would be greatly appreciated and all suggestions are welcome.
Did I mention that this is my first convergence!
Thanks in advance
Jeff
 

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I looked at it again and what needs to be done is the green needs to be brought down from the top and up from the bottom to meet with the magenta, less and less as you get to the center of the CRT where it is perfect (as humanly possible). Is there a ring for that?!?

I degaussed the CRT before beginning and faced the CRT south (while wearing Northface apparel ;-))

Jeff
 
The green is the center gun so can't be adjusted I believe.

The other guns can. The 3 guns are in a straight line horizontally, so the yoke and ring position may not be correct if you are getting this misalignment.

I am thinking out of theory, by the way. I have never achieved convergence nirvana :(

One day someone will get perfect convergence, and will tell everyone how they did it.
 
Dez;
Thanks for the reply.
Just thinking out loud but one (of many) final steps is to adjust the green with the rear-est (away from the CRT) ring set, which I do but it acts in a linear fashion, (not sure of the proper terminology) which would raise the entire green "rack" either up or down etc, I need to lower the top and raise the bottom furthest lines and as I approach the center, (which is good) act on them less and less..............
It appears to be due to the geometry of the CRT face?
Jeff
 
Or does the last set of rings move everything else to line up with the green?
Hmmm, I have to check that to be sure.
 
Be aware that there are two possible ring orders: P-6-4 and 6-4-P. So the "last" pair may not be what you think it is. This happens when you use the manual of a certain monitor as if it were the bible...
 
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