How to converge a monitor

modessitt

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Hello, need some help and info. I have a tempest with a WG6100 in it, I can get the color lines to line up vertical, but I can't get them to line up horizontal. Is there an adjustment for it? I can't seem to find the adjustment in the manual. Any help or info would be great


Thanks john

Static convergence is basically the same for all types of monitors, and I will explain how to do it here.

There are 3 sets of rings, typically. The set closest to the front of the tube will be Set #1, the middle set will be Set #2, and the set closest to the neckboard will be Set #3. Start with a test grid if at all possible. Loosen the rings. Mark their starting positions with a sharpie (draw a line across them) so you can put them back to their starting point if you have problems.

First we will adjust the vertical lines. We will be using Set #2. Move the two tabs closer together or farther apart until the blue and red have merged perfectly to create purple. Then move both tabs together (keeping the same distance) until it lines up with green and creates white.

Now we will adjust the horizontal. We will be using Set #3. Move the two tabs closer together or farther apart until the blue and red have merged perfectly to create purple. Then move both tabs together (keeping the same distance) until it lines up with green and creates white.

Make sure that when moving Set #3, Set #2 isn't turning, otherwise you will have to repeat the process.

Once you have the horizontal and vertical adjusted properly, you can adjust Set #1 if necessary to center the picture as much as possible. Usually both tabs will move together as you center.

Retighten the rings when you are finished.

EDIT - since it got mentioned recently, I should point out that centering using Set #1 is for vector monitors only. On raster monitors, set #1 is for purity adjustments....
 
reply to Sticky: How to converge a monitor

Hi
I was always tought your ring Set1 was for purity (and is to be adjusted first), not for picture centering.

usually a red raster is applied and the 'set 1' rings adjusted to get just pure red with no other colour tinge, red is used as the eye sees any changes in red much easier than green or blue, you can of course if available test with green and blue just to check purity is good on those too.

Then adjust ring set 2 and 3 for convergence but also go back again to check purity and set 1, its a jugleing act if you want it to be perfect in the end!!

i used to do this alot back in 80's and 90's when in the tv trade

very good guide by the way

thanks
Andrew
 
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Hi
I was always tought your ring Set1 was for purity (and is to be adjusted first), not for picture centering.

usually a red raster is applied and the 'set 1' rings adjusted to get just pure red with no other colour tinge, red is used as the eye sees any changes in red much easier than green or blue, you can of course if available test with green and blue just to check purity is good on those too.

Then adjust ring set 2 and 3 for convergence but also go back again to check purity and set 1, its a jugleing act if you want it to be perfect in the end!!

i used to do this alot back in 80's and 90's when in the tv trade

very good guide by the way

thanks
Andrew

I edited my original post to say that the centering comments were for vector monitors only (which the original thread was asking for). You are correct that Set 1 is for adjusting purity on raster monitors.

I have asked the moderator to amend that sticky to reflect that clarification...
 
ah right! i see, sorry to tread on your toes! i really didnt realise thread was for vector. please accept my apologies

Andrew
 
ah right! i see, sorry to tread on your toes! i really didnt realise thread was for vector. please accept my apologies

Andrew

No apology necessary. It was a clarification that was needed, since I mentioned that the procedure would work on most monitors - including raster...
 
Yeah, that's static convergence.

Where's the explaination for dynamic convergence (tilting the yoke)? And for using those "convergence strips"? :)
 
yes and in great easy detail:D convergence for DUMMIES;)

i am tired of not being able to get it even good enough. and that's with monitors i have bumped the rings on. not even a tube swap yet.

oh and with pictures please!!

Peace
Buffett
 
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yes and in great easy detail:D convergence for DUMMIES;)

i am tired of not being able to get it even good enough. and that's with monitors i have bumped the rings on. not even a tube swap yet.

oh and with pictures please!!

Peace
Buffett

I plan to do this. Soonish.
 
I never knew those magnetic convergence strips existed; this method is WAY better than fiddling with the rubber wedges. Does anybody sell these?

Also, very nice work doing it all one-handed and with the camera!
 
OK, now I know they're called "yoke tabs" or "permalloy strips". I guess I'm not surprised that Google Shopping doesn't return anything. :rolleyes: I see that Chad lists them on ArcadeCup, but the status is "reordering".
 
I never knew those magnetic convergence strips existed; this method is WAY better than fiddling with the rubber wedges. Does anybody sell these?

Also, very nice work doing it all one-handed and with the camera!

Thanks !

The rubber wedges have a TOTALLY different purpose though. They are only there to fix the yoke in the proper position, after alligning it correctly for purity. This is the very first thing you do, before any convergence steps. So, _never_ mess with the wedges unless you have a purity issue...
 
The rubber wedges have a TOTALLY different purpose though. They are only there to fix the yoke in the proper position, after alligning it correctly for purity. This is the very first thing you do, before any convergence steps. So, _never_ mess with the wedges unless you have a purity issue...

I'm going to respectfully disagree with the assertion that the rubber wedges should never be messed with unless there is a purity issue.

The wedges must be removed to tilt the yoke, and tilting the yoke is used to perform dynamic convergence (convergence away from the center of the screen). It is described in most old Wells-Gardner manuals, and in a few other sources of information on monitor convergence (I'll add links or upload images later).
 
I have a couple monitors that need to be converged. I've never done this before, so any pointers would be helpful.

I think I get the main idea, but I do have a couple questions, and I'm wary of working on a monitor while it's powered up. Anything tips that would make it easier would be appreciated.

- The manuals I've seen say to use a razor blade to remove the glue holding the rubber wedges in place. Is there any danger of scraping the coating off the back of the tube? Any precautions I should be aware of when doing this?
- When moving the yoke around, should I only touch the plastic housing, or is it safe to touch the windings?
- What kind of glue should I use to put the wedges back in place?
 
I have a couple monitors that need to be converged. I've never done this before, so any pointers would be helpful.

I think I get the main idea, but I do have a couple questions, and I'm wary of working on a monitor while it's powered up. Anything tips that would make it easier would be appreciated.

- The manuals I've seen say to use a razor blade to remove the glue holding the rubber wedges in place. Is there any danger of scraping the coating off the back of the tube? Any precautions I should be aware of when doing this?
- When moving the yoke around, should I only touch the plastic housing, or is it safe to touch the windings?
- What kind of glue should I use to put the wedges back in place?

Normally, if you loosen the yoke retention screw, you can twist the yoke enough to break it loose from the wedges. Do this with the power off and the monitor discharged. Once it's loose, the wedges (if you really need to adjust them) will usually come off with your fingers and a little pull/twist. A hot glue gun will work for reattaching them.

Once the yoke is loose, then you can turn it back on and adjust the yoke using plastic ring around the edges. The copper wire is coated and shouldn't shock you if you touch it, but sometimes people scratch them with a screwdriver or something, and it's better not to take chances with HV. When you have the yoke where you want it, tighten the retention screw - but not too much! If you get it too tight, it can crack the neck. Pay attention to how many turns you loosen it, and tighten it the same number of turns.

BTW - yoke adjustment is for tilt and/or static convergence. The magnetic rings are for dynamic convergence...
 
I never knew those magnetic convergence strips existed; this method is WAY better than fiddling with the rubber wedges. Does anybody sell these?

Also, very nice work doing it all one-handed and with the camera!

I watched a small video not long ago about making your own. I can't remember for the life of me where, but it was with rigid/sturdy paper(construction?), and the guy used the break-offs from a utility knife, and only one wrap of electrical tape and the metal tab and the paper strip and some two-sided tape to hold it onto the tube.
 
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