I considered it, but decided against it.
The primary use case of the guide (and what motivated its creation) is people installing refurbed boards they've gotten from me. So from the guide's perspective, the boards are assumed to be good. The doc is really meant to verify the rest of the system (frame transistors/sockets/wiring, as well as the game board's XY outputs), i.e., all of the other parts of the system that can have issues and result in monitor damage, that are NOT the monitor boards. If people do run into issues during installation with the guide, I prefer they PM me, and I'll walk them though it.
The guide can also be used somewhat as a diagnostic tool (as you've done), which can give you info about where to look when things aren't right. But it was never meant to be a repair guide.
I've thought about writing a more comprehensive repair doc, but it would end up being a small book. If people are looking for repair info, there's plenty already written in threads here. And folks can always ask, as you did. Every case can be different, so I'd rather troubleshoot case by case, as these monitors are not very forgiving to 'messing around' as a troubleshooting strategy.
Ultimately a lot of issues come down to bad connections, broken traces, cracked solder joints, and other things that are ultimately more mechanical than electrical. (Though those mechanical issues will often result in strings of blown components, many of which you often can't see.)
You actually were lucky in this case that it was something simple that didn't result in more damage, as a cracked joint or broken trace on the wrong header pin will often rail that deflection amp, and take out frame transistors and other stuff, including sometimes the LV board. But some bad connections can be benign and not cause a cascade of other damage, as was the case here.
Anyway, glad others jumped in. That's what this place is about.