How to add a subwoofer output to an Atari AR

andrewb

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Someone asked me for pics of how I added a sub output to one of my AR's, so I' figured I'd post a thread instead of emailing the pics. Note I did this a long time ago and it's a bit hacky, but it works.

The basic idea is based on this tutorial for converting a speaker-level output signal to a line level output:


And since websites all disappear, here's a pic of the basic idea. We want to tap off of one side of the AR's audio signal, step the voltage down using a resistor divider, and then output that to an RCA cable, that can connect to the input of a subwoofer:

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And here are pics of how I did it. All you need are the two resistors, and an old RCA cable that you can cut in half. It can basically be any audio or video RCA cable. The center conductor of the cable is the signal, and the shield is ground. The center conductor is soldered to the midpoint between two resistors that reduce the amplitude of the signal. The shield is soldered to one of the ground pins on the 4-pin speaker connector (as you can see there are two pins that are connected to ground on the solder side of the board, and in the second pic below the shield is soldered to one of them.) The other two pins are the AUDIO+ and AUDIO- speaker output signals. Note that AR's are not stereo, but rather are a single audio channel, driven by a push-pull amplifier (so the AUDIO- signal is the inverse of the AUDIO+ signal, and together they drive the speaker).

It technically doesn't matter which signal pin and ground pin you use, as either will work the same.

I also drilled two holes in the edge of the AR (which I would never do now, that's hacky AF), and added a zip tie to mechanically support the cable, and prevent it from ripping off the resistors. Today I'd just use some Kapton tape instead.


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PUMP UP THE BASS!!!
(One of the original threads discussing subwoofing).

BattleZone is still my favorite to which to add the sub.

 
PUMP UP THE BASS!!!
(One of the original threads discussing subwoofing).

BattleZone is still my favorite to which to add the sub.

Well, I learned something today: subwoofing :ROFLMAO:

I admit that subwoofers make a difference, I have one in my Outrun and one in my Super Hang On.

p
 
Could the vibration hurt the CRT guns? In the 90s had a bunch of orange screen VAX VT terminals die from the slight vibrations in the factory floor from the 2 story stamping machines.
Nope
 
Sorry @andrewb, but your "long ago" solder work looks like crap. ;) I'd like to think you've improved since then.

Isn't there some point on the board, pre-amplifier, where you could have grabbed the line level signal?
Maybe even made a sort of crossover network to filter out the low frequency bass, but pass the mids and highs to the regular amp?
 
subwoofing

When one PLAYS around in AN ARCADE after school, blasting their GAMES really loud, subwoofers and all. This generally irritates those living nearby, who often will express their 'gratitude' by either calling the cops or reducing the number of functional body parts of the perpertrator.

That bastard @thegleek was subwoofing in HIS BASEMENT ARCADE next to my HOUSE last night. I was finally able to get rid of him when I TOSSED a TWINKIE at his HEAD from my window.
 
Ah yes, make your cabinet rattle like one of those ghetto shitboxes driving down the street. Perfect for anyone in Detroit.
Hey! You take that baaaa.....oh, wait. You're right! :ROFLMAO:

Effing Ford Shitstangs running around everywhere with rattling panels and the plastic bumpers dragging the ground. (Because the duct tape dried out.) Those and the various Dodge nu-muscle cars driven (poorly) by bangers. And their moms....
 
Sorry @andrewb, but your "long ago" solder work looks like crap. ;) I'd like to think you've improved since then.

Yes. This was done way before I was doing repairs. I consider this noob-level, hacktastic work. But I'm willing to post my warts. :)


Isn't there some point on the board, pre-amplifier, where you could have grabbed the line level signal?
Maybe even made a sort of crossover network to filter out the low frequency bass, but pass the mids and highs to the regular amp?

Sure, but why make something a lot more complicated, when there's a simpler way to do it? This works for any game with an AR. (And not even that, but any game with a speaker, for that matter.) It's easier to modify the AR than the game board, and still lets you swap game boards in the cab (as the game board is more likely to need to be removed at some point vs the AR, either for repair, or to clean the edge connector, etc.)

A crossover/filter isn't necessary, as most powered subs have them on the inputs.
 
Yes. This was done way before I was doing repairs. I consider this noob-level, hacktastic work. But I'm willing to post my warts. :)
While it might not look fantastic, if its still working 10+ (?) years later, i'd not call it hacktastic. Most of the hacks i see done to MCR stuff isn't working at all, probably never was. Pretty? No. But working is what matters.
 
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