How many people have sprayed their cabs with automotive paint?

customnesguy

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How many people have sprayed their cabs with automotive paint?

I see all these people rolling cabs with house paint and I honestly thought most people would be spraying these things. Wouldnt the texture be too rough after rolling? So how many people have pics of cabs painted with the good stuff. I plan on painting my MAME cab Viper GTS blue met. with black accents like this nes I did (skip to 1:15) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP9UkybuUDQ
I will probably make it a semi-gloss though because I dont think the cab would look good that shiny. What do you think? I also might airbrush lighting bolts on the sides and use this side art -
http://www.mamemarquees.com/atomic-side-p-56.html?osCsid=obojb0r5if3psuq9v4pihabrh6

and this marquee - http://www.mamemarquees.com/lightning-marquee-from-p-216.html?osCsid=obojb0r5if3psuq9v4pihabrh6
Should be an amazing looking cab. I will be using basecoat clearcoat system with a flattening agent for the clear to make it not as shiny as it usually is.
 
should work fine, automotive paint is just so expensive i think alot of these guys do whats price efficient. Personally at the shop i work at we've painted all kinds of different woods with automotive paint and never had a problem. Lots of guitars, and i plan to repaint a few of my arcades with automotive paint too. Makes sense for me though because i can use left over paints from other cars in the shop for free.

Im in the works of learning how to repair them at the moment so then i can be an unstoppable restoration force lol
 
Whatsup Parpunk.
Oh I know it will work and look good. I just wanted to see some pics of others. Maybe see how some really shiny ones would look but I guess hardly anyone has used this method.
 
auto paint is fine man.. painted 2 so far and some coin doors..

I would reccomend a cheap "single stage" acrylic enamel.. the shine is built in but its not quite glass shiny.. unless you wetsand and buff it.. to get shinier,wetsand then spray gloss clearcoat on top.... want it dull? spray over with flat or semiglass clearcoat.. either way clear over your custom airbrush stuff to protect it..

for coin doors and metal brackets i use black dupont imron(its indistrial enamel with urethane in it), it takes about 3 days to dry but once dry, its harder than the steel...

whatever paint you decide on spray it dont roll.. only phet can actually roll a cab smooth.. hes like a foam roller ninja with that krap..(mabye the houseboys give him a massage with happy ending or something right beforehand i dont know :D )

but again with what ive tried, auto paint and sprayed on is my preferred method..

search my username for tron restore in the restoration showcase and youll see the results...

any reputable parts store that sells the stuff should be ebal to sell you all the stuff that goes with the paint (reducer, hardner) and for cleaning use good old VIRGIN lacqquer thinner.. can get that there too..

at first it seemed like a ton of work and kind fo scary but seriously im not a painter, but this is easy to do once you forure it out and once youve got your spraying technique down you will be amazed at the results..
 
if you are going to spray your cab with automotive paint, it is highly recommended to spray on at least one coat of clear over it.

then it will look extra supa fantastic.

thats what i would do anyway.

i spray clear on playfields and if i can find a nice pinball playfield, ill do it again.
 
Auto paint works fine for me

I have also used quick drying satin black enamel paint too from a hardware store

Satin looks great, not a huge fan of high gloss myself
 
Be careful with Imron... it is by far the most dangerous automotive paint you can use. You really need a fresh air respirator when using the stuff.
 
If you're interested in automotive paint via spray, then you'll definitely want to check out Spyridon's Pac-man restoration.


Automotive paint was the best paint I have ever used. Goes on perfectly smooth with no orange peel and is completely dry in like 10 minutes. The only thing that prevents me from using it on all my cabs is the cost. It cost me $388 for the paint to do this:

IMG_7639.jpg
 
I've sprayed kitchen cabinets and lots of furniture with automotive paint. I haven't sprayed an arcade game with it yet because the ones i have done ,I feel wouldn't look right with it. For a cutom cabinet i might but otherwise, it's too costly. I could get quite a few cabinets sprayed with a $55 gallon of Pro-Classic.
 
well I still cant post more than one sentence whats going on here been trying for 5 days??? Error 501 and 505 whos the admi?
 
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Let me try again. I'm going to be using base/clear leftover from cars Ive painted. Ive been painting cars for almost 15 years now. That DKII looked really good! I think I am going to use a flattening agent to make it semi-gloss though. I dont think these cabs look right super shiny. I'll get pics of the process.
 
I paint all mine with Base/Clear. Matter of Fact, my Pacman, and Ms Pacmans won an award at the Texas Pin Fest last weekend.


StarGate%20restore%20078.jpg


Ms%20Pac%2076528%20065.jpg


Pacman%20restore%20152.jpg
 
Your stencil work looks really accurate and clean and they look great, but.. I prefer, and think a goal for a lot of us is to get something that looks original as possible. First being the art, color, etc.. but the sheen plays into that also. Looks too glossy to me. I don't even like to get the coin door black paint too glossy, if it wasn't originally that way.

Is it possible to shoot urethane, then clear with a satin sheen clearcoat?
 
To make the clear not as shiny, you just add the flattening agent I mentioned (hence the name). The more you add, the less shiny it dries. I will be using it to some extent. You just mix it into the clear and the hardener. It Also makes more of a sprayable mix.
 
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