How does this come off?

I'm guessing you don't want to invest the time and effort on it but this would be a cool way to get those two pieces apart ....

Save 12bux but lose 2 days. Time to valuable to me. New grommet it is.
 

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Yep, dissimilar metal corrosion and bonding.

You can carefully split that collar using a Dremel tool until you get around 80% of the way through, do it on opposite sides, and then stick a screwdriver in and twist and the collar should snap off.

You could have put the grommet in a vice (closed to hold the grommet, not the shaft), then you spray Kroil or CRC 636 or LPS 1 into the joint, and tap it with a dead blow hammer around 20 times. Apply more of your favorite penetrating oil, tap 10 more times, let it sit for an hour and then tap it again. It will generally break loose.

The tapping allows the oil to migrate into the joint, which breaks up the corrosion products and allows the shaft to move.
 
The grommet was just rusted to the shaft. Common on these.

They are difficult to get off. I use a shop press, which makes it easy. But soaking or other methods may or may not work, depending on how rusted on there it is.

Whatever you do, do NOT pound on the end of the shaft with a hammer. You will mushroom the end of the shaft, and ruin the whole thing. And do not grab the shaft with pliers, as you'll mar it up.
 
Yep rust welded...

Have some new centering grommets but this shaft is a little smaller. How can I shim this?
 

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Yep, dissimilar metal corrosion and bonding.

You can carefully split that collar using a Dremel tool until you get around 80% of the way through, do it on opposite sides, and then stick a screwdriver in and twist and the collar should snap off.

You could have put the grommet in a vice (closed to hold the grommet, not the shaft), then you spray Kroil or CRC 636 or LPS 1 into the joint, and tap it with a dead blow hammer around 20 times. Apply more of your favorite penetrating oil, tap 10 more times, let it sit for an hour and then tap it again. It will generally break loose.

The tapping allows the oil to migrate into the joint, which breaks up the corrosion products and allows the shaft to move.
Exactly what I did
 

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Yep, dissimilar metal corrosion and bonding.

You can carefully split that collar using a Dremel tool until you get around 80% of the way through, do it on opposite sides, and then stick a screwdriver in and twist and the collar should snap off.

You could have put the grommet in a vice (closed to hold the grommet, not the shaft), then you spray Kroil or CRC 636 or LPS 1 into the joint, and tap it with a dead blow hammer around 20 times. Apply more of your favorite penetrating oil, tap 10 more times, let it sit for an hour and then tap it again. It will generally break loose.

The tapping allows the oil to migrate into the joint, which breaks up the corrosion products and allows the shaft to move.
Exactly what I did!
 

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Yup, break out the Kroil, soak the joint for a while.
This right here. We use Kroil at work when working on all sorts of stuff in the power plant and I've seen it work miracles on some of those turbine parts that have been exposed to incredible high heat, lots of rust and or not taken apart in 15-20 years. It does take a good while sometimes to soak in but works pretty good. We've also had good luck releasing some stubborn parts using a 50/50 mix of Kroil and Apple Cider Vinegar. Never heard of the stuff before starting this job but it's pretty wild
 
Yep rust welded...

Have some new centering grommets but this shaft is a little smaller. How can I shim this?
Put the grommet on the mandrel of your vice (or over the closed jaws - not in them).

Take a hammer, and tap it fairly hard flat to the top of the metal insert.

Test fit the shaft.

Why this works: You are placing compressive stress on the bushing in the middle. It should get slightly shorter and the walls will get slightly thicker.

This is a TAP test TAP test TAP test approach. You could put it in the vice, but your ability to control the compression is related to the threads on your vice, which may not work well.

I thought I saw three of the grommets on your bench - did you try them all?

Otherwise, you could go to a shop, have them measure the ID of the grommet bushing, and then have them do a weld overlay and spin it down on a lathe to the right diameter to be a close fit.
 
Put the grommet on the mandrel of your vice (or over the closed jaws - not in them).

Take a hammer, and tap it fairly hard flat to the top of the metal insert.

Test fit the shaft.

Why this works: You are placing compressive stress on the bushing in the middle. It should get slightly shorter and the walls will get slightly thicker.

This is a TAP test TAP test TAP test approach. You could put it in the vice, but your ability to control the compression is related to the threads on your vice, which may not work well.

I thought I saw three of the grommets on your bench - did you try them all?

Otherwise, you could go to a shop, have them measure the ID of the grommet bushing, and then have them do a weld overlay and spin it down on a lathe to the right diameter to be a close fit.


No. Just no.

He has the wrong grommet. The solution is to get the correct one.
 
You don't.

That's the wrong grommet. Those are Wico grommets. You need a Midway grommet.

Arcadeshop has them.
+1 you need the Midway gromett. It's softer than the Wico too.

While you're at it, buy a new sleeve, yours is severly worn and it acts as an actuator at the top of the joystick against the metal diamond shape on the base.

I had one that was rust welded like yours. Used everything including Sea Foam penetrant. Would not budge. Finally, I just cut into the rubber part of the grommet to tear it out like you did. Then I had to cut it off the metal part that was fused to the shaft with a Dremel. PITA and after all that, the joystick was bent to begin with! Ended up using tools to straighten it out, so all is good but, man!

Glad you got it off! (And buy that sleeve!)

Del
 
No. Just no.

He has the wrong grommet. The solution is to get the correct one.
Ill order a new one but in the meantime I used a nylon cable holdback from a pinball cab. It was wide and the exact thickness. I heated it a little and wrapped it around the shaft to shape and the inserted . Perfect fit. I have a ton of Wico grommets And it feels great . I might not even order another ! Penny saved is a penny earned. This ain't no concord restoration! With respects to posterity yes ordering a new correct one is the "correct way" to go about it but hey if it works it works. Dang sure won't seize again!
 
+1 you need the Midway gromett. It's softer than the Wico too.

While you're at it, buy a new sleeve, yours is severly worn and it acts as an actuator at the top of the joystick against the metal diamond shape on the base.

I had one that was rust welded like yours. Used everything including Sea Foam penetrant. Would not budge. Finally, I just cut into the rubber part of the grommet to tear it out like you did. Then I had to cut it off the metal part that was fused to the shaft with a Dremel. PITA and after all that, the joystick was bent to begin with! Ended up using tools to straighten it out, so all is good but, man!

Glad you got it off! (And buy that sleeve!)

Del
Yeah I'll order new.
In the event I couldn't though I bet this wouldn't 20 years easy and no one might not ever even know.
 
No. Just no.

He has the wrong grommet. The solution is to get the correct one.
Laughs - yeah, I had to read this,

While you say No, Just No.

It can and does work.

Just because it isn't what you want doesn't make it wrong.
 
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