bungy
Well-known member
The hobbyist also forgot to use t-molding.
How do you verify authenticity?
- Thread starter Aniraf
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- food fight
The hobbyist also forgot to use t-molding.
Phet was still looking for just the right shade of Neon Green T-molding when that pic was taken.
I think that if the wood of the cab rolled out of the factory in 1983 as a Food Fight, and you are running the game software on a dedicated, un-emulated Food Fight PCB, then it's "authentic".
Of course, you can have an authentic game that is 100% original; or not very original at all, but it's still authentic. IMHO, of course. YMMV. BBQ.
/ah klov. you can leave for 5 months, and when you come back everything is just like it was when you left.
//howdy fellas
LyonsArcade
Well-known member
LOL now now. Not to stick up for Dale.... but... to be honest, both cabinets were repainted the wrong color, and the one has the wrong stick, so yea you've kind of got a point. Didn't you do a really nice one once?
Phetishboy
Well-known member
No. Mine is in very nice original condition. One of the few I haven't had to restore, the other being my Burgertime. I don't think I'd want to restore a Satan's Hollow. The artwork is screened on and I know of no way to accurately recreate that effect, other than having it re-screened, which I cannot do.
Spyridon
Well-known member
Why do you say that? The guy who did the good paint job had the color computer matched.
And just to give credit where it is due, this was WarlordAG's restore and he did put the correct joystick and t-molding on the cab
sosage
Well-known member
Depending on how he compared the colors, they can still come out wrong. There are a lot of factors to getting colors correct via software that can give you completely wrong colors (RGB vs CMYK vs Lab vs Calibration of the monitor vs Calibration of the video card vs Calibration of any color options in the programs used). I really hate trying to keep CMYK colors correct for print via what is represented on a RGB monitor. Even if your software (photoshop/illustrator) is set for CMYK, it can still wind up representing the wrong color. It's hair pulling for me.
It's a nice looking cabinet though.
Spyridon
Well-known member
I agree. And yes, the code is probably close and not exact, but it sure looks right. Close enough to say it was painted correctly.
OP
OP
OK, so I just got it today...and guess what??? Played it for 2 minutes and the f'ing joystick broke!! Ya, if you can imagine how pissed off I am...double it, cause I'm f'ing floored (not sure if you're allowed to swear on this forum so I'll watch my language).
I'm fairly certain it was broken once before and super-glued back, you can see in th picture.
Anyway, here's the serial information from the machine. If anyone cares. I certainly think My question about authenticity is answered...but now I've got a question about fixing this stick!
How do you pull the ball thing off the top of the joystick? I figured it would have a little set screw or something...no dice.
Fortunately even though I'm extremely pissed, and have already asked the seller to pay for the repair, I've been researching this machine for about 20 years and I think I know exactly how to fix it...that is with the help of http://www.ataricoinop.com/index.php/site/controller_and_parts/red_baron/. Except for removing the ball thing so I can properly clean the controller assembly.
I'm going to post another item that is more specifically about removing the ball since this topic is getting a little long.
I'm fairly certain it was broken once before and super-glued back, you can see in th picture.
Anyway, here's the serial information from the machine. If anyone cares. I certainly think My question about authenticity is answered...but now I've got a question about fixing this stick!
How do you pull the ball thing off the top of the joystick? I figured it would have a little set screw or something...no dice.
Fortunately even though I'm extremely pissed, and have already asked the seller to pay for the repair, I've been researching this machine for about 20 years and I think I know exactly how to fix it...that is with the help of http://www.ataricoinop.com/index.php/site/controller_and_parts/red_baron/. Except for removing the ball thing so I can properly clean the controller assembly
.I'm going to post another item that is more specifically about removing the ball since this topic is getting a little long
.Attachments
sosage
Well-known member
OK, so I just got it today...and guess what??? Played it for 2 minutes and the f'ing joystick broke!! Ya, if you can imagine how pissed off I am...double it, cause I'm f'ing floored (not sure if you're allowed to swear on this forum so I'll watch my language).
I'm fairly certain it was broken once before and super-glued back, you can see in th picture.
Anyway, here's the serial information from the machine. If anyone cares. I certainly think My question about authenticity is answered...but now I've got a question about fixing this stick!
How do you pull the ball thing off the top of the joystick? I figured it would have a little set screw or something...no dice.
Fortunately even though I'm extremely pissed, and have already asked the seller to pay for the repair, I've been researching this machine for about 20 years and I think I know exactly how to fix it...that is with the help of http://www.ataricoinop.com/index.php/site/controller_and_parts/red_baron/. Except for removing the ball thing so I can properly clean the controller assembly
I'm going to post another item that is more specifically about removing the ball since this topic is getting a little long
You're in good shape if the only thing that needs to be replaced is the stick. I'm not sure what stick that is, but most sticks can be easily disassembled by undoing the clip at the bottom (assembly comes apart and the shaft should lift up...prepare to catch the stick parts that come off at the bottom). Most modern ball tops on ball top joysticks are screwed on (although...again...not sure what stick that is). I'd try finding a rag and some grips.
p1899m
New member
be glad that some one has reproed the parts. A few years back replacing parts for that stick could be very expensive.
OP
OP
Ya, that company looks awesome! I actually pulled the knob right off with brute force, I got everything taken apart and cleaned. I ordered the repro parts I need to get it back in high gear. Hopefully it will last for a very long time to come.
