How do you verify authenticity?

[kstillin]

I don't know-
I've got a buddy that has a Track N Field, and something is suspicious about it.
It looks almost NEW, except that you can tell it was DROPPED, which caused a crack on the side and a couple of other damaged sections of the cabinet.

It is super clean, which makes me wonder if it ever saw a site. The monitor is newer and doesn't match monitors from back in the day, but doesn't look 'replaced' either.

The coin door has one of those keyless locks. I'm not sure if there is a counter in there or not.

I should take some pics. I think this is what the thread is about. Was this game MADE in the 80's?
Consider those Star Wars cockpits that Dave from RAM was posting about. They may wind up being MORE desirable because they will basically be new and perfect. Will people care?

I still don't get the original question, though. By Authentic, what are you expecting in the game? A reproduction game would actually cost much more, and they don't make them.

Are you just saying out of ignorance (not knowing much about arcade games) that you want it to be authentic, or is there something in particular you'd like to know about it?

 

[ELutz]

Doe's anyone other than myself take this kind of personal.

Food Fight! (1982)

This machine has just been shopped out by us here at the Pinball Shoppe.

We are Professionals not Hobbyists! When you buy from us you can rest assured that you are getting a good, clean, reliable machine.

All machines can be set for coins or freeplay...just let us know after your purchase.

For shipping quotes: please click on the Shipping and Payments tab above and enter your zip code!

pinballshoppe.com

Yeah, after all.....professionals in the amusement industry have such stellar reputations. (insert sarcastic tone)

Edward

 

[JohnDrzal]

I'm very new to the world of classic arcade ownership, however I just purchased a dedicated Food Fight machine off of a "reputable dealer" on eBay. I have yet to get the machine, however the store owner assures me that it is in fact an original.

I've searched high and low trying to find some sort of official serial number list, yet I can't seem to locate anything like that. I've asked him for a full detail of what may have been fixed, replaced or restored but again I feel like I just kind of have to take his word for it.

I have no reason to doubt the guy, and it seems like he's been running a really nice shop for years (at least I've seen him on eBay for years). I just want to know if there is any way to verify the authenticity.

Thanks!

I guessing you bought the one from the PinBall Shop. It sure looked nice in the pictures they had in the auctions. Congrats!!

 

[LyonsArcade]

Somebody please show me a picture of a Food Fight that's NOT authentic. That's what i'm gettin' at. I've never seen one.

 

[Shoegaze]

Somebody please show me a picture of a Food Fight that's NOT authentic. That's what i'm gettin' at. I've never seen one.

This one looks kind of fishy to me...

 

[TK_Monkey]

I don't know-
I've got a buddy that has a Track N Field, and something is suspicious about it.
It looks almost NEW, except that you can tell it was DROPPED, which caused a crack on the side and a couple of other damaged sections of the cabinet.

It is super clean, which makes me wonder if it ever saw a site. The monitor is newer and doesn't match monitors from back in the day, but doesn't look 'replaced' either.

The coin door has one of those keyless locks. I'm not sure if there is a counter in there or not.

I should take some pics. I think this is what the thread is about. Was this game MADE in the 80's?
Consider those Star Wars cockpits that Dave from RAM was posting about. They may wind up being MORE desirable because they will basically be new and perfect. Will people care?

Definitely get pictures of that, and check the serial on it too to add to the serial # thread.

 

[Aniraf]

Ok, yes my own ignorance made me think that some asshole might be out there cutting panels in his garage and selling hacky/Mame versions that look as good as this thing looks in the pictures. At this point you guys know about as much as I do. I'm trying to get in touch with the guys to get it shipped out here asap.

It does of course look like the 1983 version and I certainly hope it is. I will follow up with serial number info and pictures.

Additionally I've asked for details regarding the "just restored" part of the auction. Either I'll get my dream machine or I'll somehow get screwed. Either way, I'll post here so that everyone knows wether or not to trust this seller.

 

[teknomedic]

that's the feeling I got... he just wants an original food fight that was originally constructed at the correct time (repairs or not), not something that was just tossed together with plywood and a bootleg multi board installed in 2005 or something.

I think we're getting the word "authentic" mixed in with word "original"... you can have an "authentic" looking game machine, but have nothing original about it. Such as a newly built cab, new CP and a brand new PCB with newly burnt chips.

For me when it comes down to owning an "original" machine... I think the cab, PCB, CP and monitor need to be the same parts that were slapped together at the factory. This doesn't mean that if the PCB was toasted due to lightning and it was replaced with another original PCB that the game is any less "original" in my eyes. All those parts could have come together from different games during a restore and I'd still call it original. Even if the wiring was redone and all the pots, caps, etc were replaced... still an original machine. Just like if you replaced the washer fluid in a classic car.... or changed a headlight... the car is still original, but somethings just need to be replaced at times.

Basically, as long as you replace those main parts with other original parts from other dead original machines you're golden.

Of course if you swap out for a new monitor, then you've got an original machine WITH a new monitor.... or a repro CP... or bootleg PCB... or a "copied" or newly cut cab.

Of course we're living in a time where we can still own original cabs and machines... but push this hobby out say 500 years and I think you'd be dealing with almost ALL machines being reproductions since everything will eventually fail or rot and not be able to be replaced.



so is it authentic... yes... is it original... don't know, lol.

 

[Aniraf]

And here is what has been done according to the seller:
----------------------------------------------------------------------
The monitor has been rebuilt. What we do is replace all the caps and restore the color guns on the tube. We also clear the grid on the tube by zapping it with high voltage. This is done with our CRT restorer. We have replaced the +5 volt bridge on the power supply.Then we detail the cabinet, take the front glass off and clean the bezel and glass, and check the controls and adjust or repair as needed. It's a lot of work but it needs to be done. Oh, we also repainted the coin door and put on a free play button (just disconnect the wiring if you want to use coin ). Replaced the flyback transformer on the monitor.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

Here's how I interpreted this...

- You would fire high voltage at the tube in order to remove or reduce burn in? At least that's my guess.
- I have no idea what he's talking about with the "caps."
- The +5 volt bridge is probably just a capacitor replacement?
- Detail...ya, I get that
- Repainting the coin door I assume is a powder coat to it? (hopefully)
- I really don't want the "free play" button, I think coins are traditional and cool
- No idea what the "flyback transformer on the monitor" is.

If any experts want to give me the lowdown, I'd be happy to hear it .

Thanks again for all of the replies!!

 

[Shoegaze]

- You would fire high voltage at the tube in order to remove or reduce burn in? At least that's my guess.

- No idea what the "flyback transformer on the monitor" is.

The tube rejuvenation and cap kit (that is, a replacement set of capacitors) on the monitor both help restore a crisp, clear picture (though neither really helps with burn-in). Replacing the caps also helps address other monitor issues like folding or bad geometry. If you want a technical breakdown on what a flyback is, Wikipedia has a good one, but in plain English, it's the part of the monitor that shoots the high-voltage signal into the tube. These have a high failure rate, so it's probably good that they replaced it.

The monitor fixes they listed are all pretty typical of a rebuild, and it sounds like all of the bases were covered.

I really don't want the "free play" button, I think coins are traditional and cool

I felt the same way when I got my first machine. Give it a week, you might change your mind.

 

[Aniraf]

Awesome! This forum is fantastic! Hopefully my free space will increase and I'll eventually become an official collector .

As for now I'll just shut my mouth and hope this thing is as great as I remember .

 

[sosage]

Awesome! This forum is fantastic! Hopefully my free space will increase and I'll eventually become an official collector .

As for now I'll just shut my mouth and hope this thing is as great as I remember .

It never ends with just one.

 

[MasterFygar]

Ten years ago, I vowed I would stop with just one machine.

I did fine for years.

Then I came across a pinball I used to love.

Naturally, that was to be my last machine.

But then that looked off center so I needed Dig Dug, but that was sad because it looked too miniature so I HAD to have Pole Position, and then the room was too one sided so I needed a Space Invaders cocktail, and when a free DK Jr. came up of course that was a necessity... but that was a cocktail too, and now the sit down/upright ratio was out of whack, so I had to get the Pokemon Snap Station, and then I had no deluxe machines so I had to get Virtual On, and then I decided I needed a fighting game...

Long story short, 10 years later, I have 9 games spread across two houses, averaging 2-3 a year now, and now I'm looking for a claw machine or a sit down racer.

You can never stop. It's like drugs. You say "I CAN STOP WHEN I WANT" but that chip has been reseated inside you so that it will never come out and you will never WANT to stop and you can tell yourself you can but then you'll see a really good deal or get your mind on this ONE MORE machine you want and

FACE IT, YOU'RE ALREADY ADDICTED.

 

[ELutz]

Here's how I interpreted this...

- You would fire high voltage at the tube in order to remove or reduce burn in? At least that's my guess.

Has nothing to do with screen burn. It "cleans" the color guns inside the tube....making for a brighter and sharper image

- I have no idea what he's talking about with the "caps."

Commonly refered to a "cap kit". This is a good thing.

- The +5 volt bridge is probably just a capacitor replacement?

The bridge is a bridge rectifier. It turns AC voltage into DC voltage. It is nothing like a capacitor.

- Detail...ya, I get that

Yeah, probably a wipe down with Windex.....if you're lucky, maybe new t-molding (but I wouldn't hold my breath)

- Repainting the coin door I assume is a powder coat to it? (hopefully)

Originally, it was powder coated.....I'd put money they hit it with some black rattle can paint.

- I really don't want the "free play" button, I think coins are traditional and cool

Doesn't Food Fight have an internal "free play" setting? Go figure!

- No idea what the "flyback transformer on the monitor" is.

This isn't a bad thing, either.
If any experts want to give me the lowdown, I'd be happy to hear it .

Thanks again for all of the replies!!

Good luck,
Edward

 

[R3LL1K]

Ok, yes my own ignorance made me think that some asshole might be out there cutting panels in his garage and selling hacky/Mame versions that look as good as this thing looks in the pictures.

If someone went through the trouble of reproducing all of the artwork and cabinet to make it look exactly like the original I would bet you money that they wouldn't be selling it for $1000. The work, time and money involved would bring the cost up higher than the $995 your was listed for.

 

[Paul Olson]

Looks like a nice machine, so you should be ok.

The "Professional" restore sounds like $5 in parts and a couple of hours cleaning. Look at some restoration threads here if you want to see what a hobbyist restoration looks like. The professional wouldn't be advertising that if his customers knew how little he was actually doing. Hobbyists are concerned with doing it right, not just getting paid as much as possible.

 

[Spyridon]

The "Professional" restore sounds like $5 in parts and a couple of hours cleaning. Look at some restoration threads here if you want to see what a hobbyist restoration looks like. The professional wouldn't be advertising that if his customers knew how little he was actually doing. Hobbyists are concerned with doing it right, not just getting paid as much as possible.

Yeah, here is the difference between a retailer restore:

and a hobbyist restore:

Both cabinets have been repainted. See the difference!

 

[Phetishboy]

Yeah, here is the difference between a retailer restore:

and a hobbyist restore:

Both cabinets have been repainted. See the difference!

Yes I do. Dale's has the right stick.

 

[Deadly]

And here is what has been done according to the seller:
----------------------------------------------------------------------
The monitor has been rebuilt. What we do is replace all the caps and restore the color guns on the tube. We also clear the grid on the tube by zapping it with high voltage. This is done with our CRT restorer. We have replaced the +5 volt bridge on the power supply.Then we detail the cabinet, take the front glass off and clean the bezel and glass, and check the controls and adjust or repair as needed. It's a lot of work but it needs to be done. Oh, we also repainted the coin door and put on a free play button (just disconnect the wiring if you want to use coin ). Replaced the flyback transformer on the monitor.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
!

A standard rule of thumb for me personally is to examine the verbiage the seller uses.
First of all - restore the color guns on the tube. So changing caps restores the color guns...... Wow I never knew caps cleaned guns - I'll be damned
CRT Restorer - Hmmmm makes me wonder if that's anything like a tube rejuvenator?

Am I the only one or does this seller sound inexperienced? Just sayin ...

And the only person that would care that all serial numbers match is a serious collector. Authentic simply means all Atari made parts are still being used. (Excluding the monitor).

 

[Spyridon]

Yes I do. Dale's has the right stick.

True, but the hobbyist one (which isn't mine) had the stick replaced with a red one before completing the restore.