How do you verify authenticity?

Aniraf

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I'm very new to the world of classic arcade ownership, however I just purchased a dedicated Food Fight machine off of a "reputable dealer" on eBay. I have yet to get the machine, however the store owner assures me that it is in fact an original.

I've searched high and low trying to find some sort of official serial number list, yet I can't seem to locate anything like that. I've asked him for a full detail of what may have been fixed, replaced or restored but again I feel like I just kind of have to take his word for it.

I have no reason to doubt the guy, and it seems like he's been running a really nice shop for years (at least I've seen him on eBay for years). I just want to know if there is any way to verify the authenticity.

Thanks!
 
Food Fight cabinets, art sets and circuit boards have not been reproduced as far as I know. So if it is a Food Fight cabinet playing the game, it is 'authentic'. The monitor or the circuit board may have been replaced through the years, but that doesn't make it inauthentic. The serial number will most likely be something between UR00794 - UR01319 or there about. Atari serial numbers are found on a plate on the back of the cabinet and the number sequencing is not very logical.
The most important thing is just to play the game and enjoy it.
 
if you can provide any pictures I'm sure someone here can help put your mind at ease. I can't figure out a "real" cab to save my life, but many others here can.
 
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im sure its dedicated,but yeah post some pics at least a link to your auction. we all want to see it anyway:)
 
Given the age of most arcade machines and the nature of people being around them when they were on location, if everything on the machine is totally original and nothing has ever been repaired there may be gameplay/functionality issues. People slamming on the buttons, putting cigarettes down on a control panel while they're playing or just straight up trying to break something all can happen, as well as normal electrical stuff like monitors dying, etc.

Most manufacturers didn't publish or sometimes even record production numbers, but with something as large and complex as an arcade machine, there wasn't a counterfeit industry other than some game boards being bootlegged. Some numbers on production have been inferred from serial numbers posted here ( http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=146030 is the thread I'm thinking of, and probably the place mrpeepers pulled those numbers from) and some have been gleaned from documentation ( http://www.brentradio.com/ProductionNumbers.htm has some based on paperwork) and some purely speculated at.

Ultimately, if it's in the dedicated cabinet ( http://www.arcade-museum.com/game_detail.php?game_id=7837 has pictures of Food Fight's dedicated cabinet), the correct game board is in there and it's working, you're good to go.
 
Here's the thing... you're going to have a hard time finding two people who can even agree on what makes an arcade machine "authentic". A couple of things to consider:

- Do PCB repairs make a game inauthentic? I've seen examples of solder and wire repairs and hacks that were done in the factory.

- Do replacement parts and reproduction artwork make a game inauthentic? Operators had to replace monitors, cracked marquees, worn-out control panels, and broken controls all the time.

- Is it the original cabinet that makes a game authentic? If so, I fear a lot of collectors are building themselves a game room full of counterfeits by replacing water damaged boards and repairing broken corners. :D

It's like vintage cars, almost: some people are going to say that an old Chrysler is only worth having if it has matching serial numbers, the original paint, no body work, and less than 1,000 miles on the original tires. Other people are going to say "eff that, this car deserves to be as pretty as it was when it rolled off the assembly line".

My two cents: if it's a Food Fight PCB in a Food Fight cabinet, I wouldn't sweat it if the side art has been touched up or the buttons have been replaced. These things are lousy investments; they're money pits to keep running and they only lose value. We buy 'em and fix 'em because we like 'em, so if it looks and feels "right enough" to make you happy, then it's right enough.
 
Here's the thing... you're going to have a hard time finding two people who can even agree on what makes an arcade machine "authentic". A couple of things to consider:

- Do PCB repairs make a game inauthentic? I've seen examples of solder and wire repairs and hacks that were done in the factory.

- Do replacement parts and reproduction artwork make a game inauthentic? Operators had to replace monitors, cracked marquees, worn-out control panels, and broken controls all the time.

- Is it the original cabinet that makes a game authentic? If so, I fear a lot of collectors are building themselves a game room full of counterfeits by replacing water damaged boards and repairing broken corners. :D

It's like vintage cars, almost: some people are going to say that an old Chrysler is only worth having if it has matching serial numbers, the original paint, no body work, and less than 1,000 miles on the original tires. Other people are going to say "eff that, this car deserves to be as pretty as it was when it rolled off the assembly line".

My two cents: if it's a Food Fight PCB in a Food Fight cabinet, I wouldn't sweat it if the side art has been touched up or the buttons have been replaced. These things are lousy investments; they're money pits to keep running and they only lose value. We buy 'em and fix 'em because we like 'em, so if it looks and feels "right enough" to make you happy, then it's right enough.

You're confusing 'authentic' with 'dedicated'. There's no grey area.
 
If it's in the right kind of cabinet, it's "authentic".

118124210797.jpg


If it has that generally funky shape, it's good to go.
 
So if someone swaps out a cracked marquee with a NOS or reproduction marquee, the game is still "dedicated" but no longer "authentic"? I'm not sure what you're arguing here.

Imo if you use a NOS then it is still authentic.
It just wouldn't be the original one that came with the machine.
Look up the definition of authentic.
 
You guys all need enemas. (okay, maybe not all of you.)

Authentic/dedicated/etc just mean REAL. If the cab is one that came from the factory as Food Fight, then it is real. it doesn't matter if someone pulled the G07 out and replaced it with a K7000. Doesn't matter if the ripped and burned CPO was replaced with a repro. Doesn't matter if the water damage was repaired and the cabinet repainted and had the side are replace. Doesn't matter if the coin door was re-powder-coated. What matters is that the board is an original FF board (repaired or not), the controls are the same style as the original, the art looks like the original, and the cab is original.

But a very nice complete repro would cost just as much (if not more) and look just as good (if not better), and play just as nice...
 
/endthread

You guys all need enemas. (okay, maybe not all of you.)

Authentic/dedicated/etc just mean REAL. If the cab is one that came from the factory as Food Fight, then it is real. it doesn't matter if someone pulled the G07 out and replaced it with a K7000. Doesn't matter if the ripped and burned CPO was replaced with a repro. Doesn't matter if the water damage was repaired and the cabinet repainted and had the side are replace. Doesn't matter if the coin door was re-powder-coated. What matters is that the board is an original FF board (repaired or not), the controls are the same style as the original, the art looks like the original, and the cab is original.

But a very nice complete repro would cost just as much (if not more) and look just as good (if not better), and play just as nice...
 
Wow, thank you all for the responses! I didn't log back in to check on the status, but WHAM...like 20 comments! That is in fact the eBay auction in question. I'm getting it shipped out here this week. It sounds like it is in fact real and in great shape. I'm really excited to play it again!
 
Doe's anyone other than myself take this kind of personal.

Food Fight! (1982)

This machine has just been shopped out by us here at the Pinball Shoppe.

We are Professionals not Hobbyists! When you buy from us you can rest assured that you are getting a good, clean, reliable machine.

All machines can be set for coins or freeplay...just let us know after your purchase.

For shipping quotes: please click on the Shipping and Payments tab above and enter your zip code!

pinballshoppe.com
 
I still don't get the original question, though. By Authentic, what are you expecting in the game? A reproduction game would actually cost much more, and they don't make them.

Are you just saying out of ignorance (not knowing much about arcade games) that you want it to be authentic, or is there something in particular you'd like to know about it?
 
I still don't get the original question, though. By Authentic, what are you expecting in the game? A reproduction game would actually cost much more, and they don't make them.

Are you just saying out of ignorance (not knowing much about arcade games) that you want it to be authentic, or is there something in particular you'd like to know about it?

One part was asking if it was a legit Food Fight in a dedicated Food Fight cabinet. The answer was, "yes". The better answer was,

You guys all need enemas. (okay, maybe not all of you.)

Authentic/dedicated/etc just mean REAL. If the cab is one that came from the factory as Food Fight, then it is real. it doesn't matter if someone pulled the G07 out and replaced it with a K7000. Doesn't matter if the ripped and burned CPO was replaced with a repro. Doesn't matter if the water damage was repaired and the cabinet repainted and had the side are replace. Doesn't matter if the coin door was re-powder-coated. What matters is that the board is an original FF board (repaired or not), the controls are the same style as the original, the art looks like the original, and the cab is original.

But a very nice complete repro would cost just as much (if not more) and look just as good (if not better), and play just as nice...

The other part was asking how to verify this info. All there really is to go on is visual (looks like the cabinet...has the right shapes...artwork looks correct...cp looks correct...) and that there doesn't seem to be any bootleg Food Fight boards (to my knowledge). Is anyone running a Food Fight serial number tracker? *shrug*

Unless he gets it, opens it up and discovers a MAME machine in there, it's safe to say it is very likely an authentic dedicated Food Fight.
 
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