RetroHacker
Well-known member
Correct. Unfortunately, there are like four or five different "standard" monitor power connectors for arcade games. Sometimes you have to change them to fit. Usually, I'll just dig around in the scavenged wiring scraps to find something that mates, but if I can't, it's just as easy to use a fresh pair of mating connectors. The exact type of connector used is not important - you just want to be able to disconnect and remove the monitor if you need to. And you can always change it again if you have to. I'm at work, and I can't really tell what kind of connector that is you have, the shape looks like AMP to me, but I can't tell - the monitor I have here at work is so dim it's just a black blur to me.
Generally it's best to solder wires to the terminals of an isolation transformer - you don't want wires to pop off when you're dealing with 120vAC, and not all transformers have nice tabs condusive to accepting quick disconnects. Also, since the isolation transformer is one of those things that really doesn't break or ever need to be removed from the cabinet, soldering it in is the easiest way to go. You just want to be sure that there is some kind of connector between the monitor and the transformer (the above AMP or Molex connector) so that the monitor can be easily removed. The input side if the isolation transformer is typically hardwired to the line filter and power cord. Traditionally, the power supply, fuses, isolation transformer and line filter are all mounted on a scrap of wood or similar, and screwed to the bottom of the cabinet.
You're welcome. Sorry we can come off a bit harsh, it's just that sometimes it's hard to figure out what a new person doesn't get. To us it all seems so obvious
-Ian
