How did i get this paint effect?

Fudd

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So i'm laying down some new rustoleum satin black to a cab. i'm using the spray can but the one that has a very wide spray pattern that you can hold at any angle. how did i get the effect in the picture? because of the can, was there dirt underneath? i had this whole area sanded down with 300 grit.

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So i'm laying down some new rustoleum satin black to a cab. i'm using the spray can but the one that has a very wide spray pattern that you can hold at any angle. how did i get the effect in the picture? because of the can, was there dirt underneath? i had this whole area sanded down with 300 grit.

The paint reacted with 'something'. If you spray one brand/type over another brand/type, it's not hard to get a crinkle reaction like this. If you'd used RustOleum rattle can primer, then let it dry the right amount of time, then sprayed a RustOleum finish over it, it's nearly impossible.

What type of primer did you use? How long did you let it dry?
 
no primer in that area, simply sanded the old black down with 120, 220, then 320 grit so it was nice and flat then sprayed directly over the old black. i guess i'm going to have to take it down to the wood then primer then new black. i simply wanted to use the old black since it was pretty flat to begin with.
 
no primer in that area, simply sanded the old black down with 120, 220, then 320 grit so it was nice and flat then sprayed directly over the old black. i guess i'm going to have to take it down to the wood then primer then new black. i simply wanted to use the old black since it was pretty flat to begin with.

It sounds like a good idea, and I've done what you did, and got those results. Only guaranteed safe way is to either take all of the finish off, or sand and use a primer coat as a barrier (what I recommend).
 
In compatiable layers of paint. I got the same effect on a fiberglass tub once Laughs.
The cure is a resand Reprime repaint.
The chemicals that are design to bond to the surface has made the under coat wrinkled.

Sometime you can get away from that by putting on light coats with a drying time in between.
 
Read the label on the can. Due to new EPA regulations (Jan 2009) spray paint has been reformulated. The old stuff you could recoat anytime. On the new stuff you can recoat within 1 hour after 5-7 DAYS. If you recoat after 1 hour that is what happens.

http://yosemite.epa.gov/opa/admpres...301e8e4f6e341795852573950054684a!OpenDocument

The pictures look like the OP applied laquer-based paint on top of enamel-based paint.

This is basically the effect you will see by using old-style (e.g. pre Jan 2009) "5-ball" Krylon paint, such as the coveted Semi-Flat black on top of any type of enamel paint. It will react and cause the bubbling effect.

The reason is that basically the laquer based paints contain a high amount of MEK (methyl ethyl keytone), which, basically, is a paint stripper to all enamel paints. (Check the cans of stripper out). Therefore when you apply over any existing paint that is not laquer, it essentially starts 'stripping' it which causes the bubbles/crinkles.

The only two ways around this is to use a thick primer, like Kilz or Zinser (the ones with 3x larger holes in the nozzle of the rattle can, or roll it on), and then sand and then spray with Laquer based paints.

Now, if you are seeing this when spraying fresh enamel based paints (basically what 85% of the cans of paint out there are made with), then you likely have not removed oils and other chemicals correctly, or spayed too much in an area, or not shaken the can fully, or done so in wrong humidity conditions, or sprayed too soon after a previous coat has cured, or any combination of the above.

I used to use tons of Krylon Semi-Flat black (1613) since it was almost as matte as flat, but not chalky, but no longer have acces to it (cheaply) since they made them change their formula for non-industrial applications (51613 which is basically semi-gloss but they call it Satin now). All Krylon now is enamel based paint and that sheen is no longer available in the current formulations. I did run into many instances of wasting a can by not properly surface prepping due to laquer over enamel issues.

I can rarely remember problems using 'standard' (non laquer) based paints causing wrikling however. Doublecheck the can and the MSDS (material safety data sheet) on the MFG web site to see what the paint is made of. There are still some laquers available, like those for spraying car engines black that will blister immediately on spraying over almost any other existing paint.
 
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Any chance that you sanded and wiped it clean with a wet cloth and it wasn't 100% dry before you sprayed it.

I did the exact same thing a few weeks ago on what was supposed to be my last coat on a cocktail cabinet. 3 coats were fine. Final sand with 400 clean with water and dry with my shirt paint and bubble. I think it was the same paint too. I know it was the can you can hold in any direction - not 100% on the brand.

As others mentioned, sand and repaint should fix it.
 
had to be incompatible paints, since i posted this i sanded down to wood, primed and repainted with the same paint and got none of the same effect.

i was using the any angle spray satin black by rustoleum. its like a mini hvlp gun.
 
The pictures look like the OP applied laquer-based paint on top of enamel-based paint.

This is basically the effect you will see by using old-style (e.g. pre Jan 2009) "5-ball" Krylon paint, such as the coveted Semi-Flat black on top of any type of enamel paint. It will react and cause the bubbling effect.

The reason is that basically the laquer based paints contain a high amount of MEK (methyl ethyl keytone), which, basically, is a paint stripper to all enamel paints. (Check the cans of stripper out). Therefore when you apply over any existing paint that is not laquer, it essentially starts 'stripping' it which causes the bubbles/crinkles.

The only two ways around this is to use a thick primer, like Kilz or Zinser (the ones with 3x larger holes in the nozzle of the rattle can, or roll it on), and then sand and then spray with Laquer based paints.

Now, if you are seeing this when spraying fresh enamel based paints (basically what 85% of the cans of paint out there are made with), then you likely have not removed oils and other chemicals correctly, or spayed too much in an area, or not shaken the can fully, or done so in wrong humidity conditions, or sprayed too soon after a previous coat has cured, or any combination of the above.

I used to use tons of Krylon Semi-Flat black (1613) since it was almost as matte as flat, but not chalky, but no longer have acces to it (cheaply) since they made them change their formula for non-industrial applications (51613 which is basically semi-gloss but they call it Satin now). All Krylon now is enamel based paint and that sheen is no longer available in the current formulations. I did run into many instances of wasting a can by not properly surface prepping due to laquer over enamel issues.

I can rarely remember problems using 'standard' (non laquer) based paints causing wrikling however. Doublecheck the can and the MSDS (material safety data sheet) on the MFG web site to see what the paint is made of. There are still some laquers available, like those for spraying car engines black that will blister immediately on spraying over almost any other existing paint.

Nice explanation of the underlying problem. Thanks!
 
So i'm laying down some new rustoleum satin black to a cab. i'm using the spray can but the one that has a very wide spray pattern that you can hold at any angle. how did i get the effect in the picture? because of the can, was there dirt underneath? i had this whole area sanded down with 300 grit.

I've had that exact reaction spraying multiple coats of rustolem gloss
spray paint over one another. You either need to wait till the bottom
layer dries fully or recoat within <5 mins or so while its still wet.
The solvent that is in the spray paint doesnt have time to Flash off, gets trapped and causes the crinkle effect.

Best bet is to put on 3 real light layers about 10-15 mins apart.. that should give full coverage vs 2 real wet layers.
 
I have this problem all the time when I repair wheels, some jack off sprays a wheel with cheap paint and when i spray my quality stuff over it causes the cheap stuff to lift off due to the harsher chemicals in the paint i use
 
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