How are you guys punching/drilling holes in blank takeman Atari panels?

tron guy

Super Moderator
Staff member

Donor 12 years: 2011, 2015-2025
Joined
Jun 26, 2007
Messages
23,150
Reaction score
2,595
Location
Eureka, California
How are you guys punching/drilling holes in blank takeman Atari panels?

I have a blank black widow panel that I am using for my Major Havoc build.

This thing is pretty thick, and I really don't want to experiment on it trying to get good holes drilled.

I'd appreciate insight as to how some of you are punching the holes you need for your custom builds in these panels.

I have a hole-saw kit (for a power drill) that works well on wood, but is tedious and inaccurate on metal from my experience.
 
I have drilled many metal panels with a 1 1/8" hole saw designed for metal I got at Home Depot, it has really fine teeth and cuts through fast. The walls on it are thin, so it cuts faster then the traditional hole saw. I have cut dozens of holes with one using no oil at all. I will post a pic
 
I have drilled many metal panels with a 1 1/8" hole saw designed for metal I got at Home Depot, it has really fine teeth and cuts through fast. The walls on it are thin, so it cuts faster then the traditional hole saw. I have cut dozens of holes with one using no oil at all. I will post a pic


Cool, yeah I'm interested.


This is a cool option. I suppose if I use a 20% off coupon it wouldn't sting nearly as much and I'm sure it would come in handy at least 1 more time before I die. :)
 
This is a cool option. I suppose if I use a 20% off coupon it wouldn't sting nearly as much and I'm sure it would come in handy at least 1 more time before I die. :)

It's pretty easy to use. Drill a hole in the center, put in the punch and pump it 4-5 times and it pops right through.
 
Hougen Rotocut bits are the best in my book.

See my page here...
http://www.biltronix.com/Space_Duel_to_Major_Havoc_Conversion_Control_Panel.html#tools_to_cut_holes

Scroll up a little from that link to see how I marked the panel. You can use the CPO itself as an accurate template to mark the steel panel before cutting.

Bill B.

Is there a specific 1 1/8" part you specifically recommend?


Is this acceptable?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hougen-1-1...444425&hash=item41d21fd920:g:0wcAAOSwB4BZ5iey

or better priced:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-1-8-Houg...922392&hash=item4403d24765:g:W8EAAOSwuMZZHfrl
 
Last edited:

Those look like the correct one as per Hougen site list here.
you would also need the center arbor listed under the holecutter list.

I've used these Rotocut bits in the past and they cut the holes in the steel like a hot knife through butter and they leave practically no burr and they don't bend over the edge of the hole or anything. Rotocut bits also won't grab the steel and rip it out of your hands although you should be clamping something this big to a bench or something. Punches can create some slight deformation of the panel but I suppose it depends on the quality of the punch system.

Bill B.
 
Ok, since I had a few days off and wanted to work NOW, I went with the home depot, milwaukee hole cutter. Also a 1/2" huge bit for the player start buttons.

It went well.

I may as well ask , anyone that has an opinion. Approximately where are you guys cutting the hole for the tempest spinner? I have tried the roller, and honestly, it sucks.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpeg
    image.jpeg
    1.3 MB · Views: 29
I know it's late to the party, but just for completeness, this thread didn't mention knockout punches, which is another option many folks here use. There was a recent thread on them, here:

https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=419149

The one you want for CP holes is the Greenlee 72BB. You can get one for anywhere between 40-70 bucks on ebay, depending on how long you want to wait for a cheap one to pop up (vs Buy It Now).

It's basically a non-hydraulic version of the Harbor Freight punch, which you just tighten with a Big Ass Wrench. But it's compact, simple, and a little cheaper (though also only a single size, vs the Harbor Freight system.) A solid tool, made in the USA.
 
Another option that I tend to use is a step drill bit (like: https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-coated-high-speed-steel-step-bit-set-2-pc-60378.html ).

You can drill right into the metal with it and keep going all the way up to whatever size you need... but usually I'll start with a small pilot hole exactly where I want it, then go to a larger drill bit or hole cutter, then use the step bit to get up to the exact size I want. It leaves a clean edge, and one fairly cheap bit covers a lot of different sizes.

Just make sure when you get close to the size you want that you stop at each step to make sure you don't go too far! ;)

DogP
 
I picked up a step down drill bit too. Are you going to run yours on a drill press?

Another option that I tend to use is a step drill bit (like: https://www.harborfreight.com/titanium-coated-high-speed-steel-step-bit-set-2-pc-60378.html ).

You can drill right into the metal with it and keep going all the way up to whatever size you need... but usually I'll start with a small pilot hole exactly where I want it, then go to a larger drill bit or hole cutter, then use the step bit to get up to the exact size I want. It leaves a clean edge, and one fairly cheap bit covers a lot of different sizes.

Just make sure when you get close to the size you want that you stop at each step to make sure you don't go too far! ;)

DogP
 
Stepped drill bits tend to wander off course for large holes unless you use a drill press and clamp the work piece. Other than that, they're pretty good, especially on soft metals and plastics. On hard materials like steel, keep in mind that they have to hog out a lot of material, as in they have to cut every size of hole up to the finished size. A Hougen Rotocut bit (or a hole saw) only cuts the finished size. That's a lot less material for the bit to cut so work does tend to go faster with this type of cutter, plus they don't wander so you can work without clamping the work piece relative to the cutter and that means that you can use a hand drill.


Bill B.
 
Stepped drill bits tend to wander off course for large holes unless you use a drill press and clamp the work piece. Other than that, they're pretty good, especially on soft metals and plastics. On hard materials like steel, keep in mind that they have to hog out a lot of material, as in they have to cut every size of hole up to the finished size. A Hougen Rotocut bit (or a hole saw) only cuts the finished size. That's a lot less material for the bit to cut so work does tend to go faster with this type of cutter, plus they don't wander so you can work without clamping the work piece relative to the cutter and that means that you can use a hand drill.


Bill B.



I already invested in a Greenlee punch, but I do have to admit those Hougen saws look pretty amazing all around.

I tried using a regular hole saw with a hand drill once on a CP, and it was a nightmare. But the design on those looks like they address all of the issues. (And being able to use a hand drill is a huge advantage.)

Good stuff.
 
Back
Top Bottom