Horizontal Size adjustment

lhota

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I'm trying to ID the H Size adjustment on the monitor board in cabinet i recently picked up. It does not have the adjustment on the end of the board where the V Pos, V Size, and H Pos are located.
The first picture in shot of the screen with crosshatch.
The second picture show part of the monitor board. Is the piece i circled the adjustment?

Also, as you can see the blue is off. How safe is it to adjust the convergence tabs to try and bring the blue inline? Are the tabs in a specific order or are they monitor dependent?

Is it possible the monitor should have the caps replaced?

Thanks!
 

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slightly on/off-topic... mod, are width coils interchangeable from other chassis? width coil on my K7000 might be broken, and I have several U5000/K7500s laying around that I can probably pull a donor from.
 
slightly on/off-topic... mod, are width coils interchangeable from other chassis? width coil on my K7000 might be broken, and I have several U5000/K7500s laying around that I can probably pull a donor from.

Not usually, but check the part number in the manual for chassis made by the same manufacturer:

K7000 - 009A2854-001 ($12.50 at BobRob)
U5000 - 009A2970-002
K7500 - 009A2838-003 (75uH-350uH)

If you can measure the Henries range of a functioning K7000 pot, and have a donor with close to the same readings (and the same footprint), then I'd guess they'd be okay....
 
ok, I never really shopped width coils before, just never noticed if any were specific to a chassis or not, which is what I thought given the delicacy of what it controls, but figured I might get lucky. lol thanks.

really what it might be is my adjustment tool might just not be big enough. which, how is it that you can't use a metal hex key in it because of heat, and you use a plastic one and that doesn't melt??
 
The heat issue is so you don't burn your fingers. Plus a metal one can cause a fluctuation in the function of the coil, so when you adjust it to where you want it, it moves to something else when you pull it out.

Shine a flashlight down your width coil center to make sure that it is turning, or that it isn't cracked.

Or just change the value of C38...
 
yeah, that's the problem in the cab it's in I can't see inside the width coil. lol. maybe I'll try to find an assistant to hold my telescoping mirror, or change the batteries in my portable fluorescent light so I can actually see wtf I'm doing again.

this is the chassis that got nuked when the flyback went. I changed the C38 with a new one. what's interesting is the picture shifted a tad, so maybe the width coil adjustment does work now. aren't you supposed to see the metal part stick out the top though?
 
yeah, that's the problem in the cab it's in I can't see inside the width coil. lol. maybe I'll try to find an assistant to hold my telescoping mirror, or change the batteries in my portable fluorescent light so I can actually see wtf I'm doing again.

this is the chassis that got nuked when the flyback went. I changed the C38 with a new one. what's interesting is the picture shifted a tad, so maybe the width coil adjustment does work now. aren't you supposed to see the metal part stick out the top though?

Not usually. it's normally down inside. But you can pull the chassis out, look inside, make sure your tool is turning the ferrite core, then put it back in and adjust it...
 
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