Homemade Dragon's Lair score plexi

pc10builder

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So I accidentally damaged my Dragon's Lair score plexi, which had been painted over in a conversion. Needless to say, *safe* stripper isn't so safe for plexiglass. I looked all over for a reproduction but didn't have any luck. So I thought I'd try to build my own. I think it worked out pretty good, if I do say so myself.

Here are the links to the art files.

http://playchoice.riemen.net/dl/score_plexi_ready_for_print.pdf (45 MB print-ready pdf)
http://playchoice.riemen.net/dl/Dragons_Lair_Score_Plexi_Art.zip (full file set 145 MB)

To create the art, I scanned a damaged plexi (in sections) assembled them in Photoshop to create a master background, placed it in Illustrator CS3 (as a linked tiff file), used whatthefont.com to find the exact fonts, positioned the rasterized fonts over the background image in Illustrator and created cutout boxes and circles for the transparent areas of the marquee.

The print file is 25 x 13 (with bleeds). The cut plexi dimensions are 23 3/8" x 11".


To build your own Dragon's Lair Score Plexi:

1. Print out the above print-ready PDF file at FedEx/Kinkos or any other quick print shop that does large format color printing. The paper doesn't have to be glossy or extra fancy, because it will be mounted behind plexi. The print should be less than $20.

2. Buy a sheet of plexi at a local hardware store like Home Depot. A 24x18 sheet cost me $15. (Get the more expensive Lexan equivalent product - the one that says it won't shatter. It won't be as ridged as the original, but you're not standing on it, you're mounting it.) You'll need a plexi scoring tool ($6) and a 4 1/2" hole saw ($45).

You could also buy a piece of cut plexi with holes from a local glass/mirror store. Mine quoted me $45 total, but only had a 4" hole saw. Because the speaker grills cover the holes, you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference. But because I like to do things the hard (and expensive) way, I bought my own tools.

3. Trim out the plexi to 23 3/8" x 11". I scored both sides of each cut until I thought my arm was going to fall off. Then I mounted it to the edge of my workbench with wood clamps (with rubber pads on the clamps so they don't scratch) and used a mallet to break off the scored piece.

4. Trim out the print using a new/sharp Exacto blade and a strait edge (I clamped the edge to my workbench so it didn't move on me.) You can trim the edges using the crop marks and cut out the LED boxes, but don't cut the circles yet.

Note: The cut lines around the boxes will be the most noticeable lines of the whole piece. Take your time – use a strait edge and enough pressure to make the cut in one pass. I didn't use a new exacto and I had to make several scores to cut all the way through the material. It left a little white bevel around the edges that can still be seen.

5. Next you'll need to mark the location of the bolt holes for the speaker grills. Position the print on up against your cabinet so that the LEDS line up properly and use some blue tape to keep it from falling. Use a pen or nail to punch the 8 bolt holes.

6. Remove the print from the cabinet and place it on top of your cut plexi. Use a pen to mark the bolt holes on the plexi masking. Also mark the center points for each of the two speaker holes. Be sure to mark which side is the top of your plexi, so you'll know later.

7. Before drilling out the holes, here are a few tips.

Use a 1/4" bit on the bolt holes. To keep the holes clean (and to keep the plastic from melting and totally gumming up the bit) run the drill in a short way, then back it off gently and remove the plastic waste. Keep doing that until you are through. Use a flat razor blade to remove any burrs on the edges of the holes.

For the large circles, firmly mount the plexi, to a workbench using clamps. You'll probably want to have the plexi positioned on top of a large piece of scrap plywood or something else you can drill into. Once you drill your pilot hole, you'll want to run your new/sharp hole saw in *reverse* to cut out your holes. If you run it forwards it will catch and damage the plexi. When you run in reverse, you're using the sharp points of the hole saw to score, rather than gouge. It works fantastically – thanks Chris for the tip!

8. Carefully sand out any burrs on the edges of the plexi. I have a bench grinder with a stone wheel I used to *lightly* sand out the rough spots. Too much pressure will melt the plastic. You can also use a sharp utility knife to remove the burrs.

9. Cut out the circles on the print with your Exacto. You can put your plexi over the print and use new holes as a guide, or you can cut them out freehand. Be sure you've got the plexi the topside up, or your holes may not match.

10. Test-mount your print and plexi to the cabinet and you should be good to go.

11. When you're ready to remove the masking film from the plexi, you may want to use Novis or some other plastic protector right away to prevent fine scratches.

I'd appreciate any feedback on the process I've described or any improvements to the art files.

I've had my prototype scoreboard mounted for a few weeks now, and it looks as good as any of the original's I've seen. Obviously I'd prefer to have an original or high quality screen-printed reproduction in mint condition, but I doubt anyone else but me would know the difference.

Pete
 
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Very cool. I'll have to check this out when I get home. Thanks for sharing!
 
It is too shiny/reflective to get a good photo. I thought it better to have no photo rather than a bad photo. I'll see what I can do to get something up this weekend.

Pete
 
Turn the flash off on the camera. I think we would all like to see this. I might need to use it and appreciate you sharing it.
 
for the record - the best thing to use to remove paint from plastic is, brake fluid. Now I am not sure how it would affect the silk screened ink so test it first, but it lifts spray paint off without any real work (scrubbing) (may have to soak if thick).
 
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