Hmm. Power Play machine locks up after a few minutes.

Something I noticed while doing the rectifier board and molex pins. The Bally repair guide @ pinrepair.com lists power supply connector J2 wire 7 (AC - Ret) as being a blue wire. In my machine it's a white wire. Cause for alarm? Seems like it's stock.
 
Commonly stamped in many manuals of that era:

"Due to wiring shortages beyond our control, some wires colors may be different than listed in schematics".

By the way, your solenoid driver board has two original capacitors that need to be replaced: C24 and C29. The heat gets to them and these will cause lockups.
 
I believe these are the values needed (I can't get to the manuals at ARCARC right now for some reason the site is down):

C24 Electrolytic capacitor, axial leads, 2.2 uf @ 35 volts

C29 Ceramic disc capacitor, .1 uf @ 50 volts

EDIT:

arcarc.xmission.com seems to be down.
 
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How crucial is the voltage when dealing with the capacitors in the 5 volt regulator? I always thought that voltage wasn't important as long as you're over the voltage listed in the schematic.

I have two of the ceramic disc caps @ 100v instead of the 25v required.
 
Also the tantalum capacitor I have for C24 isn't axial but is still 2.2uf. Is this okay?
 
Still curious about these substitutions. I haven't gotten around to it yet since I've been doing the Molex pins. I'm a newbie at crimping these and man, what a pain it is to get it right!
 
I wouldn't hesitate to use either one. A radial cap will be fine in place of an axial and a 100V in place of a 25V will be fine as well.
 
dasvis - thanks for the tip. I ended up finding a good crimper (Platinum Tools #16801) that does insulation and wire for $20 locally.

Guys, what happened here? Solenoid Board J3 connector. Orange and red wires seem melted?

DSCF5415.jpg
 
Here's a classic situation:

I decided that even though my 5v section was reading fine, I'd redo it. Replaced all of the components and no I'm getting a reading of .26 at TP1 and TP3. What do you think I did?

This is with J1 and J2 plugged in and no J3.
 
Also getting the same reading of .26 at TP5. My one concern was using that radial tantalum cap at C24 because the original looked more like a standard aluminum electrolytic cap?

DSCF5419.jpg


DSCF5420.jpg


Thanks for all of your help guys. I'll be a wiz by the time I get another Bally.
 
Yep you only need J3 connected to test both the High voltage and 5v on the solenoid driver board. Also make sure that the case of c24 is not grounding to the heat sink. It can be tricky to detect and you have to REALLY dig your lead into the heat sink to make sure. Once you have J3 reconnected measure your voltages and see what you get. If you still don't have 5V, check BR2 on the transformer rectifier board. Did you rebuild all of the connectors and headers on both boards??
 
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J3 on the SDB was plugged in when I got those voltages. J3 on the rectifier was not, however (J1+J2 were. I left J3 unplugged to prevent anything from happening to the MPU). Does this make rectifier J3 affect the reading on the solenoid driver board?

I replaced the rectifier with a GPE board until I can get around to rebuilding the original. The connector pins on the SDB have had half rebuilt. The connectors on the right side (J3, etc.) haven't been redone. I plan on doing so in the future.

The regulator semiconductor is not grounding to the heat sink. It was initially getting a .22 reading, but I adjusted the heat sink and it's good now.
 
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