Hitachi RPTV shuts down (Top Skater 50") - replacements?

mecha

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Hitachi RPTV shuts down (Top Skater 50") - replacements?

yes, the very projection TV I had serviced for faulty convergence ICs is now shutting off after about a minute. sounds like some sort of overcurrent shutdown. the status light actually stays lit on the adjustment panel when it's off. only time I've ever seen this was when I was trying to sort out the spaghetti factory of red green and blue crosshatches in the dynamic convergence setting... if I would go too far, it would shut the TV down. then I'd have to start over again.

maybe this isn't so much a question of how to fix it (since mr. TV repair man will have to handle it) but rather does anyone know a means for replacing one of these?

I'd hate to shitcan a Top Skater over a bad TV. I see em turn up all the time, but they're always too far away.
 
Do you have a pic of the back of the monitor? I think I might have one of these I can pull parts off of.
 
might be worth taking a look over caps to make sure you dont have any bulged ones...

I know this sounds ghetto but If you put a fan back there, will it stay on?? if so, theres your fix :D

rest assured, if i see a monitor pop up anytime soon i will lwt you know. Mudmantim had one awhile back but i am unsire if he still has it and hes in mi.
 
yeah, travel's something of an issue for me, no truck. I guess it MIGHT fit into a minivan, but I don't know.

I'll see if I can dig up a model #. I would believe if there were any bulging caps that the TV tech guy that did the convergence ICs would've noticed. the blue projector was kind of jacked up... wasn't very visible, I got the white balance decent, but I had to have the blue cranked, so everything had a blue aura emanating off it lol the blue was the only one that didn't have a screen control on the neckboard.

I could try dialing the flyback down for each color. what's the likelihood that's taking a shit?
 
i dunno.. turn it down some and see if it stops bieng pissed off. Have you cleaned the lenses and mirror yet? Youd be amazed at the difference this makes.


That damn top skater has been a thorn in your side hasnt it? Rest assured man if i come across something i will let you know. Its too bad there arent any big screens out there that support the same resolution and have those type or video hookups.. that would be sweet.
 
You may want to try to find a chassis number and google it - I've read in some cases where the convergence settings on the TV were way beyond its means (due to the previous bad chips) and screwing it up. It may be time to do a factory reset then take it from there.
 
how do you do a factory reset? that's the difficult part. I need to reset the dynamic convergence on it. thus far all I've seen is that you can't do it, that it's just specific to your model TV.

I'll try to get some numbers off it, problem is it's one of those monsters that sits at an angle in Sega's stupid pedestal arrangement, and I don't have the workforce available right now to lift it off to access the back door. the game boards are behind the screen on this one.

I wiped the lenses and mirrors asses back in october or november, I think. the picture quality came out significantly more crisp. I was so impressed by it that I went and did it on all the other PTV games we have..... except the 18 Wheeler. have to figure out how to do the dynamic convergence on it. I think the fuckers that had the game before us conveniently lost the remote to it like they did every damn service door key on every game. it's got a Mitsubishi ... though different from the one in our House of the Dead (convergence is done entirely by the adjustment panel)

just out of dumb curiosity, can you make a universal remote work on one of those? the TV guy brought his american Hitachi remote and it worked identical to the crazy Japanese one I have.
 
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I don't know about factory reset on a Hitachi, but I'm pretty sure there's not one on the Toshiba... so I wouldn't be surprized if there wasn't for Hitachi either. I'd definitely turn the screen controls down though... I had an RPTV from a Tokyo Wars that was shutting down... I turned the red down and it worked fine, though it had so much burn in, I ended up tossing it :p . A lot of the rear projection games I've had have needed to be rejuvenated to look good, so if you have access to one, I'd highly recommend it.

For accessing the back on my Top Skater monitor, I just tilted the monitor forward and wedged a brick underneath the monitor. It was sturdy enough to work on, and kept me from having to remove the monitor from the base.

And I'd guess that you can make a universal remote work... my normal Toshiba TV remote worked on my Toshiba monitor.

DogP
 
someone told me projectors use some kind of fluid? what kind of rejuvenator are we talking here? lol the blue doesn't look good at all by itself, the game image is OK, but it doesn't ever seem to have the clarity (some would say contrast) that you'd desire. our Wave Runner is right next to it with a Toshiba PTV, and aside from the red level being too high (that one has the fucking game boards in the front, ARGH) it looks 10x better.

I never noticed any major screen burn on Top Skater, I think maybe the CREDITS, but it's surprisingly tame for a Sega game. I swear Sega intentionally made all their games to where they'd burn in, it was such bullshit. our 18 Wheeler is the worst.

I have an extra universal remote laying around, I wonder if I could pull off programming a Mitsubishi code in it, lol
 
They do use fluid, though I'm just talking about a regular CRT rejuvenator on each of the three tubes. And my original Top Skater monitor had burn-in of the flame from the title screen, but I've definitely seen worse.

DogP
 
latest development..

when trying to dial shit down, it crapped out sooner. then it didn't turn back on.

sounds very much like a Sony Trinitron TV we once had that would do the same shit. pity I didn't know how to solder and adjust monitors and such back then, I could've saved it. boo hiss.

but yeah, I suspect maybe the large caps are bad. probably gonna just pull the game off the floor and shove it in a garage until I can sort this shit out.

does a regular CRT rejuvenator work on these? I noticed that they have like their own convergence and purity rings like a regular CRT monitor.
 
does a regular CRT rejuvenator work on these? I noticed that they have like their own convergence and purity rings like a regular CRT monitor.

Yeah, I've rejuvenated quite a few of them with my BK 470. Since it's monochrome, follow the instructions for them. Also, I don't think the tubes are usually in the setup manual, so you may have to do some guessing (6.3V heater / 50V G1 seems most common, though if the tube is in the manual, you should verify). Luckily, all the RPs that I've rejuvenated have had their pins labeled on the neckboard, so it's easy to hook up my universal adapter.

DogP
 
right on, so they're like monochrome monitors. I always wondered how they generated black lol

well the only guy I know with a rejuvenator is out of his previous line of work (I call him a mercenary technician) and actually has like a 9-5 job now, the economy and legalization of gaming pretty much forced him out of his old route/tech gig he had before.

I don't even know what kind he's got, I'll have to text him. he keeps nagging me to come down to his shop, I really need to put together a list of his inventory, he's got a SHITLOAD of games that he's trying to sell.
 
PS I found you can use *some* of the nicer universal remotes. One thing you may want to run by your management is buying a cheaper version of the Logitech Harmony remotes - they do EVERYTHING and you can program them via usb/pc. Awesome friggin remotes!
 
someone told me projectors use some kind of fluid? what kind of rejuvenator are we talking here? lol the blue doesn't look good at all by itself, the game image is OK, but it doesn't ever seem to have the clarity (some would say contrast) that you'd desire. our Wave Runner is right next to it with a Toshiba PTV, and aside from the red level being too high (that one has the fucking game boards in the front, ARGH) it looks 10x better.

I never noticed any major screen burn on Top Skater, I think maybe the CREDITS, but it's surprisingly tame for a Sega game. I swear Sega intentionally made all their games to where they'd burn in, it was such bullshit. our 18 Wheeler is the worst.

I have an extra universal remote laying around, I wonder if I could pull off programming a Mitsubishi code in it, lol

I work on RPTV's and convergence is very common,and could break at any time.
You shoud try to adjust the red or blue first before doing any reset..
Get the Numbers off the Convergence chip itself,look closely at the stand up resistors near the chips,there all low ohm you need to remove one leg then check the resistance..
If any over heated let us know..are you sure its a mits chassis...if so i will get the convergence code for you.You have OSD Right?
Got any pictures of the chassis?
 
sorry, post was kind of vague. this thread is about a Hitachi chassis on a Top Skater, and somehow I got off on a tangent about our 18 Wheeler that has a Mitsubishi but the previous owners lost the remote or conveniently forgot to give it to us.

I can access the Hitachi dynamic and static convergence settings, if this is helpful at all, I only tried to get the red green and blues to match up in a very rough sort, I never got around to lining up the crosshatches properly. I hope that didn't overdrive anything. before the convergence was so f-ed that the dynamic points were wrapping around. I corrected that, I just never lined them up right.

the Mitsubishi I have fucked up convergence and have no way of fixing it cause I have no remote.

if it's also worth noting, there's a USB port on the Mitsubishi's panel where you connect the AC and VGA cables. what's the deal with that?
 
Ok, you should have 3 main boards one of them is convergence,it will cause no start up..
either remove the plugs to the convergence board or unsolder all the pins on the convergence Ics,if set starts of coarse the convergence will be off,but your suspect is the convergence board,check to see if the converg-chips look the same,and the number stamped on them..
If no change in set after all that then see which led on the main board is still lit
after the set shuts down..there may be around 5 different leds to check on the
main board around the power supply..Good Luck!
 
TV repair guy replaced the convergence ICs (both of them) back in april. I figure if the old ones lasted 13 years, it's not very likely the new ones died already is it?

thing I hate the most about these is I need to have the game hooked up to it to power it. I can't even molex it out and attach a regular power cord to it cause it's a 100V unit. lol :/ that and I can't access the boards with even the slightest ease without going through the back door that's conveniently covered by the game boards inside the pedestal.

I might have enough muscle available tomorrow to lift it out though, we'll see.
 
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